I need to replace the upper and lower BJ on my SST rwd. The part numbers I have are .. uppers K7206T and K7271 lowers...

My question is how hard is it to remove the uppers? Aren't the upper control arms serviced as one unit?



http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-BALL-JOINTS-2-...r#ht_1060wt_855

Looking @ the pics @ www.rockauto.com they appear to be press in...

Your 1998 SST is probably similar to my 1995 2wd.

Here's an old post on what i found out about what kind of press tools are needed.
.......

I finished up the job of changing all four ball joints
on my 1995 2wd Ram yesterday.

I lost a day trying to use Autozone's Ball Joint Press Kit
which only has three spacers
and could not press the lower ball joint properly
because using the adapter discs with these spacers
makes the total assembly too large for the 6.25 inch throat
of the C-Frame of the press.

The more complete Ball Joint & CV Press kit
from Advance Auto Parts/PartsAmerica stores
as a free loaner {$160 deposit}
had the correct spacers to do the job.

This large & heavy black plastic case
labeled
"23 piece PowerBuilt Ball Joint and CV Press Kit"

is Alltrade Part Number 9150043
which also Advance Auto Parts PN 648617

This kit had one spacer that was the key:
it is about 2.25 inches in diameter and 3 inches long
and unlike the other 'open end' spacers that require an 'adapter disc'
this spacer has one end capped but with a machined hole with locating lip
that allows it to to attach to the C frame without the need for the adapter disc.
This shortens the overall length of all the pieces enough
and allows the 6.25 inch "throat" of the C-frame
to be enough distance to fit over the lower ball joint assembly.

Even so,
this spacer spacer still has the minor problem
on the pressing out the old lower ball joint
the metal tapered stud sticking out of the ball joint
jams into the lower hole of the spacer.
This is a pain, but since it is the old ball joint
a quick whack with a hammer on the old nut put back on the stud gets it loose.

The lower ball joint presses hard!

This probably because the ball joint has metal 'knurls' were it eventually seats
and you basically are distorting metal to get it to go in near the end.

Using a 24 inch long breaker bar it still took all I had
in short 15 degree pulls to drive the thread bar during the later part of the press.

I also found that nickel colored Never-Seize on the threads of the bar
where it mates with the threads of the C-Frame was absolutely necessary.

The replacement ball joints from AutoZone had zerk grease fittings
unlike the 'sealed for life' factory ball joints
but the Autozone parts were slightly different from the lower factory ball joints
in one more way: the diameter of the seat that presses against
the A-Arm hole's underside was slightly smaller.

I didn't like the look of the rubber grease boot on the new lower ball joint either,
it doesn't look tall enough.

Both sides upper ball joints pressed easily
and the rubber boot looked good.

To save time on the second side of the truck
I didn't remove the brake caliper from the hub.

I placed a small stool to the right of the axle and set the hub there
with the brake caliper and brake line still attached, but
I tied the hub/caliper with rope to the upper A-Arm
as insurance in case I inadvertantly knocked it off the stool
which would have ruined the brake line
{which doesn't have slack to allow a fall to the ground}.

See this weblink from Advance for a link to their loaner kit,
called "23 piece DuraBuilt Ball Joint and CV Press Kit"
but unfortunately there is no picture

http://tinyurl.com/y7fcun

If you are going to use a smaller kit like the one pictured here:

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/balljoint01.jpg

be prepared to cut a piece of pipe
and machine/grind it into a correct spacer for the lower ball joint.

One inch drive deep well sockets of the right diameter might work
but the 3/4 drive square hole will be too small for the metal stud.

On 4wd Rams the work might be slightly different.

This weblink shows the process on a 2nd Gen 4wd Ram
but note the author's warning to have pipe on hand for spacers
and examine closely the 9th picture with the custom machined brass spacer
that isn't mentioned in the text.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/balljoint.php

There is also an OTC brand set of special Dodge Ball Joint adapters

http://www.toolking.com/category/pro...nextag=OTC7894

Thanks for the thorough reply... I have a large OTC ball joint kit(2 boxes) that should do the trick.
I read some posts on the internet where they claim the upper control arm joint can't be serviced. The whole arm has to be replaced. Just making sure.. My 3500 Ram is that way.