Picking up a car that was taken down to bare metal, and then sprayed with epoxy primer DP60. Was sprayed about 6 months ago. Not sure what the correct process is for getting it ready for paint - what other things to shoot it with, etc. - sealer, time between coats, etc. I still have body work to do - rust spots to fix. Want to finish with single stage paint like the factory acrylic enamel; Deltron or something similar. Do not want to go base/clear. I want a tough paint that will last a good long time that I can wet sand and buff.
Also, what's the latest product for filling D/A marks and small door dings? I assume we've moved beyond good ol' 'red lead' so is thee a better product to use?

You will need to scuff/sand the dp and then topcoat it with dp again followed by your surfacing primer. You only have a week to cover the dp with something else or you have to start over.

PPG single stage is called DCC??? If you want a factory mopar color you need to see if it's available. The color choices ppg offers on the 60's colors is slim. The local supplier here can mix the popular high impact colors and that is about it. Anything pre 69 and your are out of luck unless you have a nice original paint sample that can be put under the prophet scanning tool.

It'll probably be B5 or EW1...no biggie I think to mix...I've had B3 mixed in Delstar a few times..

Use only a 2k product like autobody icing. Its pretty much thinned bondo. Works great.

Concept DCC is a single stage urathane. Make sure you cut and buff quickly because once it really cures its tough stuff.

You CANNOT cut and buff a metalic color.

There is no need to re coat with dp. Just sand before doing your bondo work with 80-120. Then everything else getting primed with 180-320 depending on how many time you will block it. Ifyou are going to block it a couple of times you can get away with 180. If you are going to just prime and paint sand with 320. Dont change brands stay with ppg. Just use evercoats metal glaze for dings. Feather out da marks and surface. I would go base clear with a metalic paint. Much easier than trying to spray a single stage metalic. Plus you can sand and polish it you need to. Oh I use ppg's k36 primer surfacer.