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Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: Scottmon] #145545
11/14/08 11:38 AM
11/14/08 11:38 AM
Joined: May 2003
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St Charles MO
70Coronet500Vert Offline
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Hey, since you are so helpful, stay tuned. I am probably pulling the heads on my 3.5 this weekend. Timing belt tensioner snapped and I am sure I have bent valves. Compression check tonight.


No matter how responsible he may seem, never give your gun to a monkey!
1970 Coronet Vert
1972 Charger
1974 Satellite Sebring Plus Sundance
2001 Ram 4x4
2002 Intrepid
2006 300C
Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: 70Coronet500Vert] #145546
11/14/08 02:05 PM
11/14/08 02:05 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
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Louisville, KY.
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Scottmon Offline
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Might want to also check and make sure you don't have a cracked flexplate...timing will move around and freak out the crank sensor if it's busted.

ETA: I'd also double check the timing belt and make sure it didn't skip a tooth.

Last edited by Scottmon; 11/14/08 02:39 PM.
Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: Scottmon] #145547
11/14/08 02:34 PM
11/14/08 02:34 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,452
It's a dry heat
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Quote:

Might want to also check and make sure you don't have a cracked flexplate...timing will move around and freak out the crank sensor if it's busted.




Agreed, but a cracked flex plate is usually associated with some kind of noise on startup or rapid accel / decel

Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: gtx6970] #145548
11/15/08 09:38 AM
11/15/08 09:38 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 351
Grand Rapids, MI
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He could have bent the tone ring on it when he did the install. But when that happens it usually will set a code right away.
To be blunt-you should take it to a competent tech that can diagnose it. You'll save time and $$ in the long run.

Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: Jim L] #145549
11/15/08 11:21 AM
11/15/08 11:21 AM
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Ansonia, CT
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I thought it might be the tone ring but like was said, it would be right away.

I'm going to fool around with it a little longer before I throw in the towel.


2017 Contusion Blue Challenger T/A 392 M6 "BLKNBLU"
Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: CJK440] #145550
11/15/08 03:16 PM
11/15/08 03:16 PM
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Ansonia, CT
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I poked around some more. The problem is very repeatable. I had the problem and while it was hot, I ended up swapping camshaft position sensors with the old one (the one that would start fine but kill the motor when it warmed up).

The problem went away immediatle but of course the car ended up shutting down 10 mins later when it got hot.

Either I have poor luck with finding a quality sensor (one BW and the other Mopar) or there is something with the car killing sensors......


2017 Contusion Blue Challenger T/A 392 M6 "BLKNBLU"
Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: CJK440] #145551
11/16/08 10:27 AM
11/16/08 10:27 AM
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pgh pa
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How can you be sure that it's o.k. to run the 3.5 on the 2.7 computer?

Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: captaindodge] #145552
11/16/08 03:08 PM
11/16/08 03:08 PM
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Ansonia, CT
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Quote:

How can you be sure that it's o.k. to run the 3.5 on the 2.7 computer?




It's common practice in the 2.7 to 3.2/3.5 swap world. It is the suggested method too.


The more I research this stuff the more I find out. Cam and crank sensor failures are pretty common for these cars. It appears that somewhere between 01/02 Chrysler decided to cut the sensor feed voltage from 8V to 5V, however the hall effect sensors seem to be the same. There is an '02 FSM on the net that shows a 5v supply to both the cam and crank sensors but my haynes manual says I should see about 8V while I actually see 8.8V. I wonder if they did indeed drop the voltage it was due to some high failure rate of sensors......


2017 Contusion Blue Challenger T/A 392 M6 "BLKNBLU"
Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: CJK440] #145553
11/16/08 05:56 PM
11/16/08 05:56 PM
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A tad North of Indy
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CKP/CMP supply changed in `02 on LH with the release of the NGC controller



Rick

Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: CJK440] #145554
11/16/08 07:44 PM
11/16/08 07:44 PM
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Louisville, KY.
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Scottmon Offline
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Quote:

I poked around some more. The problem is very repeatable. I had the problem and while it was hot, I ended up swapping camshaft position sensors with the old one (the one that would start fine but kill the motor when it warmed up).

The problem went away immediatle but of course the car ended up shutting down 10 mins later when it got hot.

Either I have poor luck with finding a quality sensor (one BW and the other Mopar) or there is something with the car killing sensors......




If it's repeatable it sounds as though you have a second bum sensor. Try another one, but make it Mopar. Still better than the rest. Might want to double check the PN on your original cam sensor to be certain the parts guy is giving you the right one.

Re: 2000 300m 3.5L won't stay running [Re: CJK440] #145555
11/17/08 06:37 PM
11/17/08 06:37 PM
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Ansonia, CT
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Quote:

Either I have poor luck with finding a quality sensor (one BW and the other Mopar) or there is something with the car killing sensors......




OK. Something is killing cam sensors. Car shut off today. Put an old one in and it fired right up until that one warmed up and failed. For all I know these sensors are fine if placed in another car.

Since its heat related and affecting the sensor itself (swapping out a cold one gets it running again immediately) I'm wondering if it's something with the supply voltage up near the higher limit (8.8V on a 8v supply). Perhaps whatever regulates the voltage is faulty and overheating the sensor.

The scematics show that voltage coming from the PCM.


2017 Contusion Blue Challenger T/A 392 M6 "BLKNBLU"
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