Re: noisy valve train
[Re: chrisf]
#1449468
06/08/13 09:08 PM
06/08/13 09:08 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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While idling I'd press straight down vertical on each of the rocker arms (pushrod end) with the wooden handle of a hammer & see if that quiets any of em. That would ID a bad lifter (even tho they are new). When I started reading this I was thinking preload but you checked that. I'm assuming rocker ID to shaft clearance was OK when checked on that side. Holler how it goes
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: noisy valve train
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1449471
06/08/13 09:44 PM
06/08/13 09:44 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
Quote:
I'm guessing you have a exhaust leak...in the same place as before. 
yes!, reoortedly the two can sound so much alike & it's fooled alot of people
It fooled me on a fresh build until I used a approx 1/4" ID PIECE OF TUBING ABOUT 3' LONG. I clearly could hear the exhaust leak with pin point accuracy. One end up to my ear and the other all around the exhaust manifolds whiles it's idling. You will hear all kinds of cool things. A leak will be real pronounced and can even feel the heat coming up the tubing into your ear at a leak point.
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Re: noisy valve train
[Re: chrisf]
#1449473
06/09/13 08:32 AM
06/09/13 08:32 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
new aluminum header gaskets. thought that it may be a leak but this motor was in already pulled, replaced with a 400 using same headers and gaskets. no noise from the 400. so not a header leak. (wish it was)
rockers are new. shafts are good. only the drivers side makes noise just like last time.
going to cut up a set of valve covers up tomorrow and try the preload trick and see what I find.
will report my findings.
thanks for the ideas.
Yup I replaced header gaskets too and it didn't fix it.
My brand new TTI headers were cracked between #3 and 5 tubes because I broke in the motor with them and caused the headers to over heat and crack. Had to take them out and weld up the crack. Lesson learned.
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Re: noisy valve train
[Re: chrisf]
#1449475
06/09/13 10:37 AM
06/09/13 10:37 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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If your preload is adequate (at least .020-.030") on all of em I'm gonna go out on a limb & say that one or more of the new lifters are bad (or dirt) & I'd take each one apart & clean & reassemble & not mixing up parts between lifters. Holler how it goes.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: noisy valve train
[Re: chrisf]
#1449477
06/10/13 09:57 AM
06/10/13 09:57 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Before pulling the intake you might press down on the #7 rocker arms while idling with your hammer handle & see if the noise changes & if so, how much
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: noisy valve train
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1449478
06/10/13 01:02 PM
06/10/13 01:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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Quote:
Before pulling the intake you might press down on the #7 rocker arms while idling with your hammer handle & see if the noise changes & if so, how much
Putting extra preload on the pushrod end while running also seems at times to help bleed out any air and permanently quiet the lifter.
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Re: noisy valve train
[Re: chrisf]
#1449479
06/10/13 02:41 PM
06/10/13 02:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,071
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,071
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
was at the racetrack today so only had a couple minutes to look at it when I got back. with my stethoscope I found the "tick" to be loudest on #7 header tube (probably 3x as loud on that tube)tomorrow I will pull the cover and see if I can see anything. if I see nothing I will pull the intake and check lifters
Swap the rocker shafts from side to side and see if the noise moves from #7 to #2 ...
Same rockers as before the freshen, if so where did you get and what are your NEW rockers ?
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Re: noisy valve train
[Re: chrisf]
#1449481
06/12/13 10:49 AM
06/12/13 10:49 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,948
British Columbia
chrisf
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,948
British Columbia
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pulled it apart last night. ran it and checked for preload with the hammer handle. swapped rockers and no change, but.. I think I am just being overly cautious. In the shop is a tripower chevy with a hyd roller and we listened to that valvetrain. same noise. (I know cant compare mopars to chevy's) on my engine the noise is almost more inside the headers than the engine. no7 is the loudest cyl but it has a funky bend on the header tube. were thinking maybe scavenging is causing the noise? this doesn't explain why I never heard it in the other engines other than they were way lower compression than this one ??? so, its going to get driven and I think it will be just fine. being a perfectionist has its problems. i am sure it will be just fine 
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Re: noisy valve train
[Re: chrisf]
#1449483
06/12/13 10:58 AM
06/12/13 10:58 AM
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,106
Northeast
VincentVega
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,106
Northeast
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floating wrist pins? Loose pistons in the bore? were they installed in reverse orientation? what kind of tolerances? forged or cast? forged has to run loose, maybe they are too loose. Sometimes a bottom end noise sounds like an upper end noise. And I can tell you from personal experience that a new rod knock (from a spun/worn bearing or a loose wrist pin or just plain out of tolerance) can sound exactly like a lifter tick. Do you have a tendency to wind it out when the engine is cold? Turn the key and mash the gas? Could it be the fuel pump? You running a mechanical? Maybe a rod journal is out of round. Do you know the full history? but yeah, at some point, you just gotta start using it or just redo it.. otherwise you will make yourself insane. EDIT: something else to consider. Are you using iron heads? The heat crossover could be cracked. Just throwing ideas out there 
Looking for 1975 through 1978 B body 4 door sedan sheet metal or parts cars - monaco, fury, coronet. Please let me know
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