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#14380 - 02/17/05 08:13 AM Post deleted by Defbob
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#14381 - 02/17/05 08:23 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
MegaDart Offline
master

Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 6314
Loc: The Swamp
No less then 10,000lb straps. Depending on what you have for anchor points on the trailer and car. And you want to crisscross them front and back if possible.
I have brackets welded to the rear housing that I can just clip my hook onto and tighten from there. On the front of my car I use the "tie back" version and also keep my winch cable tight. It will probably take you a few times adjusting the cars weight, etc. before you get it right.
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#14382 - 02/17/05 08:38 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: MegaDart]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Get the 10,000 lb straps. I like to use only one combo tie back axle strap (no ratchet) in the front on one side(getting two of them tight is a pain) and I use an axle strap with with a seperate ratchet strap for the other side. Both get looped around the k frame. I use 2 combo axle ratchet straps in the rear. I also have extra axle straps and at least one extra ratchet strap in case I have problems. Make sure the hook ends have a safety latch that will prevent the hook from falling off if the strap somehow loosens. Remember loose straps chafe and can be snapped by load shifting. I have M&R tie downs- the car tie down section of their website is not working , just give them a call. http://www.mrproducts.com/

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#14383 - 02/17/05 09:41 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
amxautox Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96644
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
I use 10,000lb. ratchet straps, 2 front, and 2 rear. Crossed. No problems.
_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


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#14384 - 02/17/05 12:28 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: amxautox]
J_BODY Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 04/30/03
Posts: 11577
Loc: aZLiViN
I don't cross in the back. If a strap were to loosen the car will move toward the tight strap if they are crossed.

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#14385 - 02/17/05 12:35 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
JohnRR Offline
I Win

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 73560
Loc: U.S.S.A.
dave , buy the 10k straps as noted and fit the trailer to your car , add heavy D rings where you need them and reinforce as needed the area where you add the rings .
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#14386 - 02/17/05 01:01 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: J_BODY]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Quote:

I don't cross in the back. If a strap were to loosen the car will move toward the tight strap if they are crossed.




This is illogical if you think about it. If the staps are not crossed or at least angled, this can allow the car to move from side to side even if both straps are tight (parallel arcs). If the straps are parallel and one strap loosens, the car can go still to either side. At least if the straps are crossed and one strap loosened (intersecting arcs), the car can really only go to one side.

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#14387 - 02/17/05 02:32 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
KatFysh Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 9116
Loc: Falconer, NY
I also have a 18' open. I have the 10,000 lb straps too. BUT, I wouldn't recommend tying the car down like this {see attached}. I want to get axle straps and D-rings installed. The hooks on the end of these straps are hooked on the bottom side of the trailer, where the ramps hook on. I have ruined 2 straps. They get frayed easily. I crossed the front straps. These ones are a little long, as you can tell. I bought them the day before this trip. It'll def. be different this year.


Attachments
1506038-goinracin.jpg (605 downloads)



Edited by KatFysh (02/17/05 02:34 PM)
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#14388 - 02/17/05 02:36 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: KatFysh]
amxautox Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96644
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
I put the extra length of left over strap into the trunk and close the lid on them. Saves from having to unwrap them from the buckle and/or have them come loose and trail on the pavement.

I also have the 2' short straps that I wrap around the axle and the bar for the ramp. No sharp corners for mine to get cut on that way. Maybe I should take a picture some time.
_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


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#14389 - 02/17/05 03:01 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: amxautox]
BENCHRACER Offline
"Little Stroker"

Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 2569
Loc: Pa.
I towed a car for someone once and the car had hooks welded to the frame that you could just quickly hook on to and go (instead of rapping around the axle or k-frame). I have been wanting to weld hooks of some kind to do the same to mine but someone has told me that it can bend the frame downwards from the bounce of the car going down the road. What do you think?
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#14390 - 02/17/05 03:09 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: BENCHRACER]
amxautox Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96644
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
I've heard over the years that the straps should be attached to the rearend because the car has it's own springs and they can work to soften the ride of the car on the trailer.

I've also heard that the trailer has it's own springs so the straps should be attached to the frame.

??

So I do it the way I want. The rear to the axlehousing tubes, and the front to the lower control arms. I've also heard that to do it this way the shocks will wear out quicker. Oh well, can't have everything.

Bend the frame? I have my doubts, but who knows? I don't. The imports from Europe and Japan have hooks on the frames of some of them.
_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


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#14391 - 02/17/05 03:33 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: amxautox]
KatFysh Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 9116
Loc: Falconer, NY
When I used to pre-deliver new dealership cars {Linc/Merc} they too had the frame mounted tie down brackets. I have 4 of them still. I thought about welding them to my chassis or frame somewhere.

A freind of mine has some pieces of chain attached to his chassis at 4 points. All he does is hook the tie downs to the chain. Quick and easy.

I have ratchet straps with the big 3" wide flatstrap hooks. What do you think is the better strap end? The locking ring clip, a regular hook?? I want to have things better {read; CORRECT} this year while trailering. Let us know what you all have..

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When you decide to quit, THAT is the moment when you would've succeeded..

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#14392 - 02/17/05 03:42 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: KatFysh]
JohnRR Offline
I Win

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 73560
Loc: U.S.S.A.
you don't want the flat strap hooks .

tieing the frame down and the rear is a good idea , also if you are going to be towing a long distance it would be a good idea to add extra straps to the body in the rear as the front you usually have loaded if you anchor to the K frame , especially if you have a race car , to keep from over exercising your shocks
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#14393 - 02/17/05 03:48 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: JohnRR]
amxautox Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96644
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
This is what I use;



555-80122 Ratchet Tie-Down with Axle Loop
5,000lbs Rating
2'' wide x 8' long
Sold individually
| View Product | Related Products
$26.99

and the short straps;



555-80124 Axle Strap
10,000lbs Rating
2'' wide x 24'' long
Sold individually
| View Product | Related Products
$14.99

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=399049&prmenbr=361

from Jegs

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3276&prmenbr=361

_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


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#14394 - 02/17/05 04:09 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: amxautox]
smokinwoody Offline


Registered: 04/09/04
Posts: 12339
Loc: somwhere
Quote:

This is what I use;



555-80122 Ratchet Tie-Down with Axle Loop
5,000lbs Rating
2'' wide x 8' long
Sold individually
| View Product | Related Products
$26.99

and the short straps;



555-80124 Axle Strap
10,000lbs Rating
2'' wide x 24'' long
Sold individually
| View Product | Related Products
$14.99

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=399049&prmenbr=361

from Jegs

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3276&prmenbr=361






I use those too...and the straight straps.....can never have enough
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jeff.alter@comcast.net

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#14395 - 02/17/05 04:16 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: smokinwoody]
Bigcube Offline


Registered: 11/12/03
Posts: 10319
Loc: Upstate NY
As everyone else said, get the big straps... hooks on the chassis make it easier...

Kind of hard to see in this pic but look near the bottom of the 4-link bracket


Front strap hooks...
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#14396 - 02/17/05 04:24 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: Bigcube]
MegaDart Offline
master

Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 6314
Loc: The Swamp
Here is a pic of my rear tie down bracket. Nice thing about the ford9 is you can weld the brackets to the backbrace.
You can just make out where the blue strap attaches...
I just wrap around the frame rails with the tieback straps in front. On the rear you must be careful to avoid damaging your brakelines with the axle straps.



Attachments
1506272-bracket.jpg (251 downloads)

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#14397 - 02/17/05 04:46 PM Post deleted by Defbob [Re: MegaDart]
Anonymous
Unregistered




Edited by DusterDave (02/17/05 04:47 PM)

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#14398 - 02/17/05 04:51 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
MegaDart Offline
master

Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 6314
Loc: The Swamp
Yep, but its top secret.

reduced unsprung weight, also easier to adjust my shocks this way.
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#14399 - 02/17/05 04:53 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
smokinwoody Offline


Registered: 04/09/04
Posts: 12339
Loc: somwhere


card table and chairs are an option...
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jeff.alter@comcast.net

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#14400 - 02/17/05 04:57 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: MegaDart]
BENCHRACER Offline
"Little Stroker"

Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 2569
Loc: Pa.
Those bolts that hold the lower shock bracket don't look like they are through the bracket that's welded to the housing.
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DUSTER44T

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#14401 - 02/17/05 05:04 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: smokinwoody]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Quote:

This is what I use;



555-80122 Ratchet Tie-Down with Axle Loop
5,000lbs Rating
2'' wide x 8' long
Sold individually
| View Product | Related Products
$26.99

and the short straps;



555-80124 Axle Strap
10,000lbs Rating
2'' wide x 24'' long
Sold individually
| View Product | Related Products
$14.99

from Jegs







The M&R 10,000# combo strap is only $3 more than the one above and their 20,000 # (when looped) axle strap is only $10.95. Another plus is that they will re-web them at a good price if you cut a strap.

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#14402 - 02/17/05 05:44 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: KatFysh]
Prostock Offline


Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 12120
Loc: City of Champions
Quote:

I also have a 18' open. I have the 10,000 lb straps too. BUT, I wouldn't recommend tying the car down like this {see attached}. I want to get axle straps and D-rings installed. The hooks on the end of these straps are hooked on the bottom side of the trailer, where the ramps hook on. I have ruined 2 straps. They get frayed easily. I crossed the front straps. These ones are a little long, as you can tell. I bought them the day before this trip. It'll def. be different this year.




I've towed thousands of miles this way, never a problem. I just towed the car home tonight from the chassis shop in a blinding snow squall with the new truck, no problems. Need a lower ball mount to get the trailer level sometime down the road.

Like was said earlier, if you cross them and one breaks, the car is going to move around much easier because the tension will easily be lost, where if it's straight the tension is still there.

My car has never moved on the trailer with them straight, even over PA's horrible roads.
_________________________
1968 Super Bee 11.55 @ 116mph 2001 Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel 2011 5.0 GT 'vert

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#14403 - 02/17/05 06:32 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: Prostock]
KatFysh Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 9116
Loc: Falconer, NY
The reason I suggested NOT to tie the straps like the way in the pic is because mine wore half way across the webbing. There weren't any sharp edges either. I just figured the edge of the trailer did it. With the straps the way I have 'em in the pic, my car has NEVER moved either way, side to side or front to back. Although, now I know where the car rides nicely compared to the pic...

I am going to get the tie downs like the ones that you guys have in the pics. I just gotta weld on the brackets.
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When you decide to quit, THAT is the moment when you would've succeeded..

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#14404 - 02/17/05 06:40 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
64hemi Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1407
Loc: Florida
Along the same lines of tie downs. I was thinking of using this system on mine. Anyone have any experience with this type of set-up?

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=139
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=85

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#14405 - 02/17/05 08:13 PM Post deleted by Defbob [Re: 64hemi]
Anonymous
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#14406 - 02/17/05 08:20 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
KatFysh Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 9116
Loc: Falconer, NY
That would be the same as if you were to tie down around the rear axle and front K-member or frame, somewhere. The body will still be bouncin around that way..
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When you decide to quit, THAT is the moment when you would've succeeded..

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#14407 - 02/17/05 08:30 PM Post deleted by Defbob [Re: KatFysh]
Anonymous
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#14408 - 02/17/05 08:37 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
KatFysh Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 9116
Loc: Falconer, NY
My car does the same thing when I tie down where you mentioned. How much air did you have in the tires. You could see the wrinkles forming in my rear tires. I had about 20 psi in the rear and 32 up front. If you were to tie down around the tires like Terry is asking or if ya went to the rear axle and front K-frame, what else would there be that would "give" other than the tires. It wouldn't affect the shocks or springs..
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When you decide to quit, THAT is the moment when you would've succeeded..

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#14409 - 02/17/05 09:48 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: 64hemi]
GomangoCuda Offline


Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 3511
Loc: N.E. Ohio
Quote:

Along the same lines of tie downs. I was thinking of using this system on mine. Anyone have any experience with this type of set-up?

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=139
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=85




Those can be a pain when the rear wheels are inside a quarter like yours are. Works fine on a funnycar or open wheeled car.
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Van Roy's Law: An Unbreakable Toy Is Useful For Breaking Other Toys.

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#14410 - 02/17/05 10:23 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: GomangoCuda]
CaptNemo Offline
super gas

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1069
Loc: Down South
I have been wrapping the front around the K-Member ( I have the Jegs straps with the built in axle strap for the front ) and straight back from the lower four link bracket ( It has a loop built onto it ) to the trailer. I have to weld in some D-Rings so the I can "X" the rear straps, but I looked at the old spring shackle holes and I may be able to connect to them via a shackle. Or, I can add a pad eye to the rear frame to tie the rear of the car down to keep the body from bouncing around as much.

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#14411 - 02/18/05 01:06 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: CaptNemo]
Anonymous
Unregistered


I did mount my straps on the rear axel, and the K member,that idea is ok ,i just need some brakets on my trailer,as u can c on the foto the rear straps dont hold the racecar if i have to brake like a
im going to weld on some brakets right over the numberplate,and cross the straps


Attachments
1507389-Billede 204.jpg (234 downloads)


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#14412 - 02/18/05 07:33 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
Anonymous
Unregistered


Quote:

Quote:

That would be the same as if you were to tie down around the rear axle and front K-member or frame, somewhere. The body will still be bouncin around that way..




When GregZ towed my Duster to and from the Nats, he tied down the K frame and the rear axle. When he ratcheted them down, my car's height was lowered by at least one inch.




Dave, with the way I did it, the front suspension couldn't move too much- some but not much. The rear could have some travel though. We would have had to have added an extra strap in the rear up to the body to help reduce the suspension movement.

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#14413 - 02/18/05 07:55 AM Post deleted by Defbob
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#14414 - 02/18/05 08:01 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
TheOtherDodge Offline
master

Registered: 02/08/03
Posts: 4812
Loc: Houston, Texas
Dave, why do you have to trailer a street car? Just drive it to the track like I do...
_________________________
- 94 Dakota, sb, 76mm turbo AC, PS, PB, full interior! 9.97 @ 133.33
- 00 Dakota QC, 5.9, stock, 6 lb Powerdyne, 13.9 @ 98.38
- 05 E55 AMG, 11.80 @ 117.9

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#14415 - 02/18/05 09:57 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: TheOtherDodge]
CaptNemo Offline
super gas

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1069
Loc: Down South
Quote:

Dave, why do you have to trailer a street car? Just drive it to the track like I do...




>cough cough<

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#14416 - 02/18/05 10:58 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win

Registered: 08/23/03
Posts: 31224
Loc: Bend,OR USA
Dave, the 5000 lbs straps will work fine if you use four of them. The car weighs less than 4000 lbs right? So the point is that the 4 5000lbs strap are way overkill when holding 1000 lbs each or less. I have used the military cargo type tie down straps for years hauling my race cars on both trucks (4) and trailers (5 or 6, both open and enclosed) The main to remember is to check the straps after several miles before taking off to go a long distance, over 50 miles or more. IMO. I have had the straps come loose due to stretching and takeing a set. I cross the rear two straps over the center of the rear end, make sure and not catch the brake flex line or pinch or pull the metal lines on the housing also. The cars don't stop well with out the rear brakes. I do use the K member for the front straps also, but I don't cross them. I do pull the front to the outside though, not straight ahead. I would NOT use the lower control arms to tie the car down as they are intended to control up and down movement, not fore and aft! You can use a third strap on the rear to pull the car down if you make a bracket or hook on the chassis instead of the rear end housing. The rear end housing is not going to hold the suspension down on the rear end as it is unsprung. (I hope that makes since) I have read the articles about the shocks and spring wearing out if you don't tie the chassis down in the trailer and I'm sure that there is some value in that advice. But you are driving your car on the street so I wouldn,t worry about hauling the car a few miles at a time. Last thing is on the winch, I have learned the hard way to NOT leave tension on the winch after the car is tied down. The winch is not intended or design to hold a load that is being bounced around like a car is on a trailer, you don't want the winch gears failing when one of your kids is behind the car while loading it! Loosen the cable up while transporting the car on the trailer. The winch will love you for it and not let you down!


Edited by C_A_Cab_Burge (02/18/05 10:50 PM)
_________________________
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)

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#14417 - 02/18/05 12:09 PM Post deleted by Defbob [Re: CaptNemo]
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#14418 - 02/18/05 03:29 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
64hemi Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1407
Loc: Florida
The other thing I noticed is the standard non swivel D-Ring is rated at 5000LBS and the swivel D-Ring is rated at 6000lbs and I assume that's if you using a backing plate on them. My problem for the front is I can't get a axle strap around the K-member due to oil pan clearence issues. That's why I thought the wheel nets would work for the fronts and also use the winch to help hold it on. The only problem I see with using the wheel nets in front is the car has to be in the same place everytime.

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#14419 - 02/18/05 04:04 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: 64hemi]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Terry, if you get straps with flat hooks instead of twisted, I'd bet they would clear the K frame and oil pan. You could also get seperate all fabric axle straps with the ends sewn into loops. If i owned your car or Dave's, I'd weld on tie down points on the k frame so I could just snap the hooks on in front... In fact now that i think about , I just might go ahead and do it on my own car. It would make things a lot easier. Maybe I will make a template and have a few water jet cut.

C A Cab Burge- for the few extra penny's why not double the strength of the straps? They are only the spec rating when brand new, and over time they do wear a bit. Also, it's good to have each individual strap strong enough to hold the entire car and at 5,000#, there's not a lot extra. The reason for the overkill is for the worst case scenario- an accident. If by chance I hit something, I've got 2 10,000 # straps keeping the car from coming forward and crushing me from behind. The straps are rated for a static tension, and not an impact or shock. This is a case when more is better for sure. My weakest link is the tie down rings them selves. The straps are not just to hold your car on the trailer, they are also for protecting everyone around you from your cargo.

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#14420 - 02/18/05 05:24 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
A990 Offline
top fuel

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 2154
Loc: 541 slobovia
Well I searched the M&R site and found the page with the tie down info

http://www.mrproducts.com/combotiebacks.htm

Good post- I need some for a Charger I have to haul, and I'm getting tired of the lame stuff the rental place uses

KG

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#14421 - 02/18/05 05:36 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
mopardad Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 1497
Loc: Manheim PA.
Quote:

My weakest link is the tie down rings them selves. The straps are not just to hold your car on the trailer, they are also for protecting everyone around you from your cargo.




Having someone go thru a stop sign & hitting them while pulling a car on a trailer I can tell you this, My blue staps became white wherever they went thru a hook or adjuster but were not tore, all the hooks spread open somewhat, the triangular shaped pieces that the hooks snap into were very distorted, the rings on the trailer were not affected, the ball mount on the hitch (the 3/4" thick steel) was bent up pretty bad, the car hardy moved on the trailer
This happened going thru town probably not over 40MPH.
I had 2 axle straps straight forward in the front & 2 rachet straps crossed in the rear.
_________________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My 2 son's cars, guess I taught them right. 360 Aspen 10.85 @125.00. 440 Daytona 9.20 @147. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 09 Charger R/T 5.7 Hemi

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#14422 - 02/18/05 05:56 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
64hemi Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1407
Loc: Florida
Thanks for the suggestion Greg. I went out to the garage and looked at it and I now have a plan.

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#14423 - 02/18/05 06:48 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: 64hemi]
CaptNemo Offline
super gas

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1069
Loc: Down South
Terry, do you have the factory K Member in the car or is it one of the aftermarket racing K's ?

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#14424 - 02/18/05 06:50 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
CaptNemo Offline
super gas

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1069
Loc: Down South
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Dave, why do you have to trailer a street car? Just drive it to the track like I do...




>cough cough<




Well, I'm not going to drive my Duster 1,100 miles to the Mopar Nats!!! Plus, I want to trade in my show poodle status and upgrade to trailer queen.




That was meant for James... You see, there's this black thing that follows his truck and transports the red car on top of it...

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#14425 - 02/18/05 07:55 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: CaptNemo]
64hemi Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1407
Loc: Florida
No it's the stock K-member notched.

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#14426 - 02/18/05 08:33 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: 64hemi]
Bigcube Offline


Registered: 11/12/03
Posts: 10319
Loc: Upstate NY
When I had the stock K-frame I got 2 small axle U-bolts (2 1/2"x 1/2" or so). I drilled 2 holes on the each side edge of the K, then put the U-bolts up through the 2 holes and used 4 nuts to lock the U-bolt in place facing down. Gave me something for the straps to hook to that was solid. Quick fix for stock K frame cars

<Edit> since I never took a pic of where I put the U-bolts, I tried to show it in this pic with the black dots *** see attached ***


Attachments
1509844-dck15_marked.jpg (127 downloads)



Edited by Bigcube (02/18/05 08:58 PM)
_________________________
Jim


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#14427 - 02/18/05 10:15 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: 64hemi]
CaptNemo Offline
super gas

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1069
Loc: Down South
On the K-Member that came out of the '64, I removed the pinch welded section between where the strut rod bushings are and the center of the K-Frame. The idea being not to cause any places for the straps to chafe.
On the '63 I have been running the front straps through the front, outer portion of the K-Frame with a chafe guard on the strap and so far, it looks OK. I brought the car from St. Louis to Chicago, back to St. Louis and then home - about 1800 miles, plus a couple of trips to the track, one to the dyno and one out to SB412DUSTER's shop. No damage on the straps and the car is secure.
I'll have to shoot some photos tommorrow at the track to better illustrate what I'm talking about.

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#14428 - 02/18/05 10:46 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
hemiallen Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 2620
Loc: Ca Registered: Mar-2001
I am still fine-tuning our setup on a 16' open trailer. I just got 2 of the trucker style D ring loops and welded them to 6" square 1/4" thk plates, then bolted them through the frame to the front corners of the trailer with grade 8's 1/2" bolts. The stock flush mounted rings seemed wimpy, and weren't far enough out to get a good angle on the straps, probably due to a short trailer and long car ( 66 charger). On the front I am using axle straps and 10k ratchet straps, but am thinking of welding a U-bolt to the bottom of the K member similar to Al on his dart.

On the back I am considering what a friend did on his top fuel car, use 2 axle straps and a chain with a chain hook, slip the chain end thru the strap eyes, thru the bed hook and hook to chain forming a loop, and use the fronts to remove the slack. I also built a removable cable winch ( to keep it out of the weather and theft deterrance- also something to do with the welder that's fun-lol) and I will also use the winch as a backup for tension on the front. I'll snap a picture tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

What do you-all think of the chain on the rear end?

Thanks

Allen
_________________________
'05 Quad cab hemi truck- Flame red- magnaflow exhaust 70-440 cuda- 74-360-4v Challenger- new driver car EX vehicles: 66 charger Drag car- 10.80 at 123 mph 57 imperial 392 Hemi 1960 Sanger V drive- mondello-built 392 hemi

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#14429 - 02/19/05 01:24 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: hemiallen]
B Dartman Offline
master

Registered: 11/26/04
Posts: 2945
Loc: Wichita Kansas
http://www.racerwholesale.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=41_44


Lots of places on-line have what you need....here's some examples..

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#14430 - 02/19/05 06:42 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: Bigcube]
64hemi Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1407
Loc: Florida
Bigcube you read my mind Bro. That's exactly what I came up with

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#14431 - 02/19/05 07:12 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: Bigcube]
KatFysh Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 9116
Loc: Falconer, NY
Quote:

When I had the stock K-frame I got 2 small axle U-bolts (2 1/2"x 1/2" or so). I drilled 2 holes on the each side edge of the K, then put the U-bolts up through the 2 holes and used 4 nuts to lock the U-bolt in place facing down. Gave me something for the straps to hook to that was solid. Quick fix for stock K frame cars

<Edit> since I never took a pic of where I put the U-bolts, I tried to show it in this pic with the black dots *** see attached ***



Quote:

I also built a removable cable winch ( to keep it out of the weather and theft deterrance- also something to do with the welder that's fun-lol) and I will also use the winch as a backup for tension on the front. I'll snap a picture tomorrow if it doesn't rain.





I like the clamp idea. seems like the easiest and cleanest appearing set up. Won't have to worry about wrapping the strap anything up front. I'll have to check mine out and hopefully do this before the motor goes back in.

I'd like to see the removable winch set up. I had also thought about doing this. I have the material set aside at work for it. I've just been waiting to make a post for it. You added it here sooner than I was ready. What size winch do you use. Do you think a 3000 lb ATV winch will be okay if it was used with a doubled up cable?

Quote:

On the back I am considering what a friend did on his top fuel car, use 2 axle straps and a chain with a chain hook, slip the chain end thru the strap eyes, thru the bed hook and hook to chain forming a loop, and use the fronts to remove the slack.




This sound very similar to what I mentioned earlier. A friend of mine does this also.. I'm going to "notch" my rear dovetail so that I can have the clearence to get closer to hook the straps and have exhaust clearence while loading/unloading. I'll have to figure where to have the rear tie-downs to the trailer after I do that.. I'm thinking the inside corners of the notch.. Is that understandable???

_________________________

When you decide to quit, THAT is the moment when you would've succeeded..

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#14432 - 03/15/05 04:12 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: KatFysh]
Anonymous
Unregistered


I've got E-track in the floor of my trailer. The clips are rated heavy, as well as my straps. I've found if you don't put the e-clip in a certain position[in the track], they bend or worse yet, will come out of the floor. I hook the body from loops welded to the rear frame rails.[top of picture] I also have a ring welded to the k-frame. I don't personally recommend the e-clip system, as I've had 2 cars come loose while transporting. My next trailer will be back to d-rings. My shocks are upside down also.[TOP SECRET!!]Crossing the straps seems to be the problem with e-clips. It puts an angled load on them, causing the problems described above.The adjustability for position is great,but I believe it's just to many movable parts.


Attachments
1569195-race car-3.jpg (119 downloads)



Edited by mmissile (03/15/05 04:13 AM)

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#14433 - 03/15/05 06:53 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
MR_P_BODY Online   content
Master

Registered: 06/13/03
Posts: 50922
Loc: Romeo MI
This year I am trying a new tie down system (for me),
air bag under the car,the dragster guys use them,
this is to stop or slow the body movement while its
on the trailer, the suspension see's more wear and
tear on the trailer then it does going down the
track.
I plan on the normal 2 straps in the front, on the
chassis, crossed, then 2 on the rearend, crossed,
air bag under the car at the main hoop area, then
1 more strap pulling down on the body at the rear,
this one will be snug, just so the body wont move
up and down to save the shocks, I have more in my
shocks than the air bag
_________________________

W-9 8.94 @ 151 NOW ON E-85
Mike "Raff"...(180)Watching over us
CAR IS FOR SALE

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#14434 - 07/03/05 09:56 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
amxautox Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96644
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
btt for a new member to read.
_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


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#14435 - 07/03/05 11:54 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: BENCHRACER]
motorheadjohn Offline
Ridin' Shotgun

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 2006
Loc: Yorktown VA
Quote:

I towed a car for someone once and the car had hooks welded to the frame that you could just quickly hook on to and go (instead of rapping around the axle or k-frame). I have been wanting to weld hooks of some kind to do the same to mine but someone has told me that it can bend the frame downwards from the bounce of the car going down the road. What do you think?



Bending the frame and/or doing sheet metal damage is a possibility, depending on where the attach points are.

I have a very good friend that bought a 90 Mustang LX coupe on the internet and had it shipped. It had 2 soft-ball sized dents in the quarters, one on each side, when it arrived and the shipping company tried to fake the paperwork to make them look like pre-existing damage. Hice huh? Good thing he had copies of the original shipping paperwork and could prove they altered the delivery copy.

My friend figured it was loading/unloading damage, but when I started looking at the car, I noticed they were at the exact same point each side, at the corner of where the roof pillar meets the quarter panel. I got to looking and concluded they had tied the car down using a hole at the rear bumper on the frame, and tied it down too tightly. The stress caused a KINK in the quarter at the stress point where the roof met the quarter.

Anyway, he took it to a body shop for a repair estimate for the claim against the shipper's insurance, and the body ship confirmed it was damage from impropper tie down.

On a leaf-spring car, the stress points might be different, but on that Mustang (factory 4-link?) tied at the rear of the frame, it caused problems. Just be careful and think about the way the stresses will be applied if you're going to tie down with the frame rails.
_________________________
Chicks in the mirror are fatter than they appear

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#14436 - 07/05/05 09:45 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: motorheadjohn]
amxautox Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96644
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
back to the top for another person to read. Gotta keep this one on the board.
_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


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#14437 - 07/04/06 10:22 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: amxautox]
amxautox Offline
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.

Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96644
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
same same, someone needed to read it, getting close to the end page.
_________________________
Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

author unknown


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#14438 - 07/04/06 10:29 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: 64hemi]
ProSport Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 17624
Loc: Akron, Ohio
I got tired of crawling under the car at all 4 corners to wrestle with axle straps so last Fall I had a D-ring welded to all 4 corners of the car and now I can slap the tie downs on there and ratchet them quickly. Makes it so much easier to go Racing.
_________________________
Sassy Grass street Duster, best of 10.69 at 124 driven to the track with 3.23 gears, naturally aspirated on 93 octane.

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#14439 - 07/04/06 12:19 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: ProSport]
MegaDart Offline
master

Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 6314
Loc: The Swamp
$%^&* crap, is this Moparts oldest thread??

To expand on MrP's air bag, having a digger I use one too, but not the $239 version, mine was $12 at WalMart. I use 2 inflatable boat dock bumpers one large under the 4 link and one small under middle of rail, they work awesome!!

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#14440 - 07/04/06 12:19 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: ProSport]
justinp61 Offline
master

Registered: 10/01/03
Posts: 9637
Loc: W. Kentucky
I have a 18' gooseneck with a 2' dove tail, in the front it has two loops welded to the frame and I installed two recessed swivel D-rings with extra bracing in the dove tail. I use four 10,000 lb ratchet straps with hooked ends. In the front the straps are hooked in the k-member below the front mount bolts. In the rear I use axle straps and hook to the d-rings. I pull straight, no criss cross and usually go around it twice tightening. So far no problems.

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