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#14400 - 02/17/05 04:57 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: MegaDart]
BENCHRACER Offline
"Little Stroker"

Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 2569
Loc: Pa.
Those bolts that hold the lower shock bracket don't look like they are through the bracket that's welded to the housing.
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#14401 - 02/17/05 05:04 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: smokinwoody]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Quote:

This is what I use;



555-80122 Ratchet Tie-Down with Axle Loop
5,000lbs Rating
2'' wide x 8' long
Sold individually
| View Product | Related Products
$26.99

and the short straps;



555-80124 Axle Strap
10,000lbs Rating
2'' wide x 24'' long
Sold individually
| View Product | Related Products
$14.99

from Jegs







The M&R 10,000# combo strap is only $3 more than the one above and their 20,000 # (when looped) axle strap is only $10.95. Another plus is that they will re-web them at a good price if you cut a strap.

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#14402 - 02/17/05 05:44 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: KatFysh]
Prostock Offline


Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 12120
Loc: City of Champions
Quote:

I also have a 18' open. I have the 10,000 lb straps too. BUT, I wouldn't recommend tying the car down like this {see attached}. I want to get axle straps and D-rings installed. The hooks on the end of these straps are hooked on the bottom side of the trailer, where the ramps hook on. I have ruined 2 straps. They get frayed easily. I crossed the front straps. These ones are a little long, as you can tell. I bought them the day before this trip. It'll def. be different this year.




I've towed thousands of miles this way, never a problem. I just towed the car home tonight from the chassis shop in a blinding snow squall with the new truck, no problems. Need a lower ball mount to get the trailer level sometime down the road.

Like was said earlier, if you cross them and one breaks, the car is going to move around much easier because the tension will easily be lost, where if it's straight the tension is still there.

My car has never moved on the trailer with them straight, even over PA's horrible roads.
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#14403 - 02/17/05 06:32 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: Prostock]
KatFysh Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 9116
Loc: Falconer, NY
The reason I suggested NOT to tie the straps like the way in the pic is because mine wore half way across the webbing. There weren't any sharp edges either. I just figured the edge of the trailer did it. With the straps the way I have 'em in the pic, my car has NEVER moved either way, side to side or front to back. Although, now I know where the car rides nicely compared to the pic...

I am going to get the tie downs like the ones that you guys have in the pics. I just gotta weld on the brackets.
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#14404 - 02/17/05 06:40 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
64hemi Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1407
Loc: Florida
Along the same lines of tie downs. I was thinking of using this system on mine. Anyone have any experience with this type of set-up?

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=139
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=85

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#14405 - 02/17/05 08:13 PM Post deleted by Defbob [Re: 64hemi]
Anonymous
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#14406 - 02/17/05 08:20 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
KatFysh Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 9116
Loc: Falconer, NY
That would be the same as if you were to tie down around the rear axle and front K-member or frame, somewhere. The body will still be bouncin around that way..
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#14407 - 02/17/05 08:30 PM Post deleted by Defbob [Re: KatFysh]
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#14408 - 02/17/05 08:37 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
KatFysh Offline
master

Registered: 01/19/03
Posts: 9116
Loc: Falconer, NY
My car does the same thing when I tie down where you mentioned. How much air did you have in the tires. You could see the wrinkles forming in my rear tires. I had about 20 psi in the rear and 32 up front. If you were to tie down around the tires like Terry is asking or if ya went to the rear axle and front K-frame, what else would there be that would "give" other than the tires. It wouldn't affect the shocks or springs..
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#14409 - 02/17/05 09:48 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: 64hemi]
GomangoCuda Offline


Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 3528
Loc: N.E. Ohio
Quote:

Along the same lines of tie downs. I was thinking of using this system on mine. Anyone have any experience with this type of set-up?

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=139
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=85




Those can be a pain when the rear wheels are inside a quarter like yours are. Works fine on a funnycar or open wheeled car.
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#14410 - 02/17/05 10:23 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: GomangoCuda]
CaptNemo Offline
super gas

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1069
Loc: Down South
I have been wrapping the front around the K-Member ( I have the Jegs straps with the built in axle strap for the front ) and straight back from the lower four link bracket ( It has a loop built onto it ) to the trailer. I have to weld in some D-Rings so the I can "X" the rear straps, but I looked at the old spring shackle holes and I may be able to connect to them via a shackle. Or, I can add a pad eye to the rear frame to tie the rear of the car down to keep the body from bouncing around as much.

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#14411 - 02/18/05 01:06 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: CaptNemo]
Anonymous
Unregistered


I did mount my straps on the rear axel, and the K member,that idea is ok ,i just need some brakets on my trailer,as u can c on the foto the rear straps dont hold the racecar if i have to brake like a
im going to weld on some brakets right over the numberplate,and cross the straps


Attachments
1507389-Billede 204.jpg (237 downloads)


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#14412 - 02/18/05 07:33 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
Anonymous
Unregistered


Quote:

Quote:

That would be the same as if you were to tie down around the rear axle and front K-member or frame, somewhere. The body will still be bouncin around that way..




When GregZ towed my Duster to and from the Nats, he tied down the K frame and the rear axle. When he ratcheted them down, my car's height was lowered by at least one inch.




Dave, with the way I did it, the front suspension couldn't move too much- some but not much. The rear could have some travel though. We would have had to have added an extra strap in the rear up to the body to help reduce the suspension movement.

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#14413 - 02/18/05 07:55 AM Post deleted by Defbob
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#14414 - 02/18/05 08:01 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
TheOtherDodge Offline
master

Registered: 02/08/03
Posts: 4812
Loc: Houston, Texas
Dave, why do you have to trailer a street car? Just drive it to the track like I do...
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#14415 - 02/18/05 09:57 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: TheOtherDodge]
CaptNemo Offline
super gas

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1069
Loc: Down South
Quote:

Dave, why do you have to trailer a street car? Just drive it to the track like I do...




>cough cough<

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#14416 - 02/18/05 10:58 AM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win

Registered: 08/23/03
Posts: 31696
Loc: Bend,OR USA
Dave, the 5000 lbs straps will work fine if you use four of them. The car weighs less than 4000 lbs right? So the point is that the 4 5000lbs strap are way overkill when holding 1000 lbs each or less. I have used the military cargo type tie down straps for years hauling my race cars on both trucks (4) and trailers (5 or 6, both open and enclosed) The main to remember is to check the straps after several miles before taking off to go a long distance, over 50 miles or more. IMO. I have had the straps come loose due to stretching and takeing a set. I cross the rear two straps over the center of the rear end, make sure and not catch the brake flex line or pinch or pull the metal lines on the housing also. The cars don't stop well with out the rear brakes. I do use the K member for the front straps also, but I don't cross them. I do pull the front to the outside though, not straight ahead. I would NOT use the lower control arms to tie the car down as they are intended to control up and down movement, not fore and aft! You can use a third strap on the rear to pull the car down if you make a bracket or hook on the chassis instead of the rear end housing. The rear end housing is not going to hold the suspension down on the rear end as it is unsprung. (I hope that makes since) I have read the articles about the shocks and spring wearing out if you don't tie the chassis down in the trailer and I'm sure that there is some value in that advice. But you are driving your car on the street so I wouldn,t worry about hauling the car a few miles at a time. Last thing is on the winch, I have learned the hard way to NOT leave tension on the winch after the car is tied down. The winch is not intended or design to hold a load that is being bounced around like a car is on a trailer, you don't want the winch gears failing when one of your kids is behind the car while loading it! Loosen the cable up while transporting the car on the trailer. The winch will love you for it and not let you down!


Edited by C_A_Cab_Burge (02/18/05 10:50 PM)
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#14417 - 02/18/05 12:09 PM Post deleted by Defbob [Re: CaptNemo]
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#14418 - 02/18/05 03:29 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
64hemi Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 1407
Loc: Florida
The other thing I noticed is the standard non swivel D-Ring is rated at 5000LBS and the swivel D-Ring is rated at 6000lbs and I assume that's if you using a backing plate on them. My problem for the front is I can't get a axle strap around the K-member due to oil pan clearence issues. That's why I thought the wheel nets would work for the fronts and also use the winch to help hold it on. The only problem I see with using the wheel nets in front is the car has to be in the same place everytime.

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#14419 - 02/18/05 04:04 PM Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need? [Re: 64hemi]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Terry, if you get straps with flat hooks instead of twisted, I'd bet they would clear the K frame and oil pan. You could also get seperate all fabric axle straps with the ends sewn into loops. If i owned your car or Dave's, I'd weld on tie down points on the k frame so I could just snap the hooks on in front... In fact now that i think about , I just might go ahead and do it on my own car. It would make things a lot easier. Maybe I will make a template and have a few water jet cut.

C A Cab Burge- for the few extra penny's why not double the strength of the straps? They are only the spec rating when brand new, and over time they do wear a bit. Also, it's good to have each individual strap strong enough to hold the entire car and at 5,000#, there's not a lot extra. The reason for the overkill is for the worst case scenario- an accident. If by chance I hit something, I've got 2 10,000 # straps keeping the car from coming forward and crushing me from behind. The straps are rated for a static tension, and not an impact or shock. This is a case when more is better for sure. My weakest link is the tie down rings them selves. The straps are not just to hold your car on the trailer, they are also for protecting everyone around you from your cargo.

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