Cab I really apriciate old school tech like that. Its sad how you cant get info like that from many buisneses now days.

I suddenly began running hot. Got worse as I was moving. Bypassed heater core. All good ever since. Never bothered to replace heater core. Don't need heater in Stygia most of the time.

HotRod, you're jumping on the wallet quicker than necessary.

First, if your car can't run at 205 degrees then you have a tuning issue. Old car guys get nervous around 200 degrees for some silly reason. There's no need to worry unless the engine can't keep itself under 220 degrees. Yes, that's hot enough to boil water but not when it's under pressure (radiator cap).
You say your car is perfectly timed. Timed to what? An abstract number that someone gave you after reading your build sheet? Maybe it's timed for best performance over a 1/4 mile? If you're timed to performance it's likely okay. If it's times to a guru's magic number it's very likely you're in the ball park but not really perfect.

Now, before you stomp on your wallet and throw cash around needlessly, try a few things first.

Do you have an IR thermometer?



If not, go get one. They can be had cheap through Northern Tool, Harbor Freight, and a ton of other places. They're great for measuring all kinds of things like cooking oil, HVAC, home insulation, heat sources inside the car, and a billion other applications.

Use it to check temps across the radiator. If you do not see a 30 degree drop in temperature from the inlet to the outlet there is a problem.
Shooting different parts of the radiator will tell you if it's in good shape. If there are cool spots you know that area is plugged and service is required.

It can also be used to compare cylinder head temps as well as exhaust manifold temps to identify any part of the engine that may be faltering. Use it to check the carb temp too. As stated earlier, new fuel formulations don't tolerate heat very well.

Grab the temp gun, check those things, and get back with us. Maybe you can figure out the problem without wasting money.

are u running a clutch fan or electric? if it a clutch fan ck that as well, and do u have a shroud on it? and install a stat.. and im glad its not a head gasket..

Did the IR check and its only about 5 degrees drop. I plan on putting some kind of stat in it when I do get a radiator and I am seriously thinking of replacing the heater core at the same time. I cant remember off the top of my head what it is timed at but I do know I have it spot on. Runs rough when adjusted either way. The fan is a clutch style. With a shroud.

Did you measure the radiator or the hoses close to the engine? I assume the engine was running (as it should be).

If there is only a 5 degree drop across the radiator you have a big problem. Did the radiator have a bunch of colder spots in it? If so, it needs to come out.

Even if you don't have a fan running there should be more than 5 degrees of temperature drop across an open radiator.

My other input is some blocks have a lot of "sand" in the coolant jackets. This sand clogs the radiator but is fluid. It's a far stretch but I did not see what engine you had or the history of that engine.

A thermostat is VERY important and also weak coolant will not carry as much heat away as 50/50 mix of good quality. Yes you can run straight water, but if it is boiling over because the temp is hitting 212, steam is a useless transmission of heat.

The proper water pump (and pulley combination) also plays into the mix. If your hoses are hard, then try it with a loose radiator cap (after it cools of course. Don't burn yourself). If the car will not keep the antifreeze mix in the radiator and violently pukes over sitting still then you have lack of heat loss issues. I.E. cavaitating water pump, blockage in radiator or blown head gasket(s) Is your water pump belt slipping?

I guess with out sounding all over the place, I kinda do that... start with the basics and work from there.

Also a post earlier asked about anything over 200degrees and old timers getting nervous. it was because the factory head gaskets and bad machining would cause leaks over 200 degrees. Honestly we have come so far in the last 40 years that we don't even remember those days. I caught the tail end of carburetors on production engine as a professional mechanic. There was a lot of those type of "rules" that are just fairy tails now. The other was a noisy rear axle... install a few banana peels to quiet it down.

Good luck with your coolant issue.
Happy Memorial day to our Vets!
Thank you for your service.
Joe

I had measured closer to the radiator. and there seems to be a cool spot right in the middle. roughly 10 to 15 lower than the rest. This car use to run at 180 all day now its getting hot. The engine is built and was done atleast 20 years ago. So im thinking the sand sould be long gone. Thanks again for all the help. Not too many 23 year olds even mess with the cool iron anymore.

Good to see a fellow Wisconsinite! I live just down the road in Madison. Here is another thought, make sure you have the proper radiator cap... This cam cause issues too. Good luck

Mike