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Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! #1409569
03/26/13 10:29 PM
03/26/13 10:29 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,102
Western Md.
skicker Offline OP
"The Champ"
skicker  Offline OP
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Western Md.
So I am in the process of putting together a new .060 over 340 for the 69 Dart. Have the crank polished, everything checks out nice. Install the rods and pistons, camshaft, timing chain, lifters, yada,yada,yada. Everything painted nice Hemi Orange with new Eddy Aluminum heads, aluminum intake with an old set of M/T valve covers. Complete motor down to the alternator brackets. Remove it from the engine stand and attach it to the dolly I use to install motors from underneath. 727 Trans rebuilt painted and ready to go. Install the 3500 Fairbanks converter and attach the flex plate to the crank. I line everything up straight and start to bolt it up. Trans is 1/2" away from the block and torque converter is already locked tight to the crank. Finger tight 7/16 bolts in bottom of block only.
WTF????? NOW!!!!!!!
Loosen it back up and slide it apart and low and behold the crank was never drilled for a torque converter...
again WTF??????
Motor was removed from my 73 p/u before being rebuilt, which was a 4 speed.
Long story short has anyone ever ran into this????
Motor has to come completely back apart so the back of the crank can be drilled to accept a converter, as the converter is hub centric on the back of the crankshaft.
Man after today I can definitely confess to cussing while working on my car!!!


...FAFO...
Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: skicker] #1409570
03/26/13 10:38 PM
03/26/13 10:38 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,826
NY usa
5
540challenger Offline
master
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NY usa
Quote:

So I am in the process of putting together a new .060 over 340 for the 69 Dart. Have the crank polished, everything checks out nice. Install the rods and pistons, camshaft, timing chain, lifters, yada,yada,yada. Everything painted nice Hemi Orange with new Eddy Aluminum heads, aluminum intake with an old set of M/T valve covers. Complete motor down to the alternator brackets. Remove it from the engine stand and attach it to the dolly I use to install motors from underneath. 727 Trans rebuilt painted and ready to go. Install the 3500 Fairbanks converter and attach the flex plate to the crank. I line everything up straight and start to bolt it up. Trans is 1/2" away from the block and torque converter is already locked tight to the crank. Finger tight 7/16 bolts in bottom of block only.
WTF????? NOW!!!!!!!
Loosen it back up and slide it apart and low and behold the crank was never drilled for a torque converter...
again WTF??????
Motor was removed from my 73 p/u before being rebuilt, which was a 4 speed.
Long story short has anyone ever ran into this????
Motor has to come completely back apart so the back of the crank can be drilled to accept a converter, as the converter is hub centric on the back of the crankshaft.
Man after today I can definitely confess to cussing while working on my car!!!




3 reason come to mind

1. convertor not all the way on try standing the trans on the tailshaft and spinning it,

2. Check the back of the crank and see if the is the lae model pilot bearing in the back of the crank that could cuase the same problem

3. It your crank could be the old 66 or 67 and back 273 crank which has a smaller diameter opening for the convertor.

Number 3 is the worst case 1 or 2 should be an easy fix

Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: skicker] #1409571
03/26/13 10:40 PM
03/26/13 10:40 PM
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Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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dont see how there could not be a recess for the converter nub.


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: 540challenger] #1409572
03/26/13 10:57 PM
03/26/13 10:57 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,102
Western Md.
skicker Offline OP
"The Champ"
skicker  Offline OP
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Western Md.
540...
No 3 is what I think the problem is.
I know we used 273 rods and now that I think about it it is a 273 steel crank. But I never knew there was a difference in the converter snout. It is drilled for a converter but the diameter is only about 1 3/8" instead of about 1 13/16".


...FAFO...
Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: skicker] #1409573
03/26/13 11:01 PM
03/26/13 11:01 PM
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Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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You got it, you'll need a TC with the early smaller OD & hopefully one of the trans/tc companies have something off the shelf. Well at least you dont have to go back into the eng


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: skicker] #1409574
03/26/13 11:09 PM
03/26/13 11:09 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,995
Oregon
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AndyF Online content
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Oregon
Yep, not all Mopar parts can be mixed and matched. Things changed over the years and that is one of them.

Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: RapidRobert] #1409575
03/26/13 11:12 PM
03/26/13 11:12 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,102
Western Md.
skicker Offline OP
"The Champ"
skicker  Offline OP
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Western Md.
If it was only that simple. This is a build between myself and my dad of a re-creation of a 69 Dart drag car that he owned. He has a body and basically we use all of my extra parts to put it together. Its fine with me I will probably never build another small block car anyway. After I left this evening to go home and do a little research he calls me after I typed the previous post to tell me the crank is out of the motor and is ready to go back to the machine shop in the morning to be drilled. Seeing as how patience is supposed to be a virtue I sure hope it is because if its genetic I'm screwed...
1 step forward and about 200 back...


...FAFO...
Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: skicker] #1409576
03/27/13 12:18 AM
03/27/13 12:18 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,389
Abilene, Texas
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fastmark Offline
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I don't want to rain on your parade but most 340 will not bore to a .060 very safely.Did you have it sonic checked? I've had one that I bored .060 and it developed a pin hole and leaked. If you used a 273 crank in a 340 I hope you had it balanced or it will shake for sure.

Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: skicker] #1409577
03/27/13 09:22 AM
03/27/13 09:22 AM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,826
NY usa
5
540challenger Offline
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540challenger  Offline
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NY usa
Quote:

If it was only that simple. This is a build between myself and my dad of a re-creation of a 69 Dart drag car that he owned. He has a body and basically we use all of my extra parts to put it together. Its fine with me I will probably never build another small block car anyway. After I left this evening to go home and do a little research he calls me after I typed the previous post to tell me the crank is out of the motor and is ready to go back to the machine shop in the morning to be drilled. Seeing as how patience is supposed to be a virtue I sure hope it is because if its genetic I'm screwed...
1 step forward and about 200 back...




LOL well he jumped the gun it might be easier/cheaper to send the convertor out and have them machine down the snout.

I not sure you can open up the back of the crank to take the larger convertor plus you would need to rebalance it.

Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: 540challenger] #1409578
03/27/13 10:28 AM
03/27/13 10:28 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 318
Beans Cove Pa
Bumbalawski Offline
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Beans Cove Pa
The earlier convertor will be a coarse spline and will not work in your tranny. Of course, you could send your convertor back and have it fitted for the smaller snout. Thanks for posting a picture of your Dad's car. When I owned it in the late 70's after Buddy Spataro repainted it, I never seen a picture of it in its race days.

Donnie Carns

Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: RapidRobert] #1409579
03/27/13 10:29 AM
03/27/13 10:29 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

You got it, you'll need a TC with the early smaller OD & hopefully one of the trans/tc companies have something off the shelf. Well at least you dont have to go back into the eng


With addit'l thought I was thinking that when the shaft dia/splines got larger in ~68 or so (yr is different between 727/904's) that the input shaft now required more space & that was why the TC nose was enlarged so with you having a later trans you might not be able to source a TC with the smaller nose. Holler how it goes


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: skicker] #1409580
03/27/13 10:58 AM
03/27/13 10:58 AM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,499
God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340 Offline
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Hey Quint, if you bake a loaf of bread at your house is it considered "inbread"? Just trying to make you smile for a second.


I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: GODSCOUNTRY340] #1409581
03/27/13 12:10 PM
03/27/13 12:10 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,102
Western Md.
skicker Offline OP
"The Champ"
skicker  Offline OP
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Posts: 5,102
Western Md.
540.. The motor is a 69 block that has been together and running at .060 for a better than 25 years with no issues. I bought it in 1988 and put it in a p/u I had that ran 12.44@112. Motor sat for about 6 years and I freshened it for my 4x4 in 1995. Drove it until 2001 and motor sat for another 11 years. When we pulled it apart to check it out the bore was still good. I guess not being ran a lot over the years has saved it.
We replaced the rotating assembly with rods and crank that had been together in a 273 with low miles. everything checked out good at the machine shop so we used those. I never realized or noticed the opening in the back of the crank until time for the transmission.
It is a huge PITA but having the crank drilled to match the converter will fix the problem. We mic'd the converter snout and the back of another 318 crank to double check the diameter. By using the two it looks like there is about .005 difference in the crank diameter and the t/c snout. The machine shop said it isn't anything difficult to do.
Donnie...I thought there was something to the fact that the older 727 converters were different than the later ones but I didn't know exactly what the differences were. I didn't know you got the car from Buddy. I remember Nick talking about it yrs ago and said that it got wrecked when it was on a tow-bar or something on its way to Petersburg. I don't know for sure what ever happened to it.
Godscountry340...I'm not sure about being baked at my house but I know it is when baked at yours.... Get back to your honey-doos!! I know the wife has a long list of things you need to be doing.


...FAFO...
Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: skicker] #1409582
03/27/13 12:44 PM
03/27/13 12:44 PM
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md
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mopars4ever Offline
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Yes, I ran into the same problem quite a few years ago. I took a dremel with a grinding bit and I went around the inside of the crank until the converter hub fit fairly snug. Never had any balance issues or problems from doing that way. I know it is NOT the way to do it but I was taking a shot at it anyways.

Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: mopars4ever] #1409583
03/27/13 01:51 PM
03/27/13 01:51 PM
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Posts: 1,139
West Tennessee
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rbstroker Offline
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I believe that it is only the early 904's that had a different snout from the later ones. The 727's are the same size, I believe. All the early 273's with an automatic trans were 904 equipped.


This is the land of the free because of the brave
Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: skicker] #1409584
03/27/13 03:31 PM
03/27/13 03:31 PM
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Posts: 25,748
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel Offline
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If the crank is from a small-register 273, the 727 flexplate should be a sloppy fit on the outside of the register.

If the flexplate fits the outside of the register properly and the converter hole is too small it might be a 4-speed crank that never had the converter register machined to final size....seen it a couple of times before.


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Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: John_Kunkel] #1409585
03/27/13 03:37 PM
03/27/13 03:37 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 318
Beans Cove Pa
Bumbalawski Offline
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Beans Cove Pa
My torque convertor books shows this: Early 904 TF 67 and prior use a 1.55" hub on the convertor. 68 and up 904 and all 727 TF use a 1.81" hub. You have an early crank machined for an early 904TF. You could machine the crank bore at a machine shop (engine disassembly) to 1.81" if there is enough meat which I think there is. Or just hand grind as it was suggested.

Donnie Carns

Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: Bumbalawski] #1409586
03/27/13 04:12 PM
03/27/13 04:12 PM
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Fresno, CA
Jim_Lusk Offline
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Did you balance the rotating assembly? IF not, it's gonna be way off (I think).

Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: Jim_Lusk] #1409587
03/27/13 10:34 PM
03/27/13 10:34 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,102
Western Md.
skicker Offline OP
"The Champ"
skicker  Offline OP
"The Champ"

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,102
Western Md.
All of the parts are all internally balanced parts in a different combination. There was no balance of the rotating assembly done. Where would the balance issue come from? 273 crank and rods are internal. Fairbanks 3500 converter is a zero balance for a 340. Flex plate is a zero balance part also. Granted using the 273 rods creates a lighter bob weight but that is evenly distributed over all eight journals. If there is something I'm missing here someone set me straight before I re-install the crank.


...FAFO...
Re: Crank not drilled @#&#$%!!! [Re: skicker] #1409588
03/27/13 10:56 PM
03/27/13 10:56 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

If there is something I'm missing here someone set me straight before I re-install the crank.


Yes. Take the crank with harmonic dampener/bolt/washer/flex plate/6 bolts & 1 rod assy (rod/piston/pin/locks/rings/2 bearing halves) all in to the crank balancer. Ideally you'd want to get the recip/rotating (bobweight) total the same on all 8 assy's & see if that figure is what the crank is balanced to or close enough but I'm sure he'll be able to tell you something from using the bobweight of the 1 assy you bring him


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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