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Use the stock tin, cut the runner parts off, bend the cut edges to a 45º angle and tuck the edges under the heads then run a bead of sealer down the gap. You then have the benefits of valley depth and keeping oil out of the runners like a tray.

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You've posted this in the past, and it looks like a really good option. Does it R&R pretty well?

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You don’t have to bother with it once installed. And, obviously, you can run any intake you want, even changing them at the track without waiting for sealer to cure. Just use some copper tack on the regular paper gaskets. And you don’t have to lift a head to install, either.

Holds pretty well unless there’s a ton of blow-by. DAMHIK





Simulated installation (the sheet metal intake face would be the intake face of al. heads. This method does NOT work on iron heads as there are 2 large gaps at the valley. Run one deep bead of sealer in the gap, then follow up with another, wider bead.

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I'm talking cam changes.

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Pull the intake, cut/remove the sealer and pop it out with a putty knife. It can be reused over and over and over and over again...

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Thanks for the reply 64!

I know this is just a simulated installation but I have a few questions. Do you need a special tool to get a 45 degree angle on the tray?
What kind of heads are those you show without intake ports?
Why do you use tape around the sealer ?
In short It looks like you are just making a valley plate out of an original tin gasket


Thanks mIke

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1. Used the red handle tool in pic above to make the 45º bend.
2. Heads are 452’s with a piece of sheet metal over the ports to simulate an aluminum head intake face. I posted a step by step tutorial some years back but I didn’t have an aluminum head laying around. Factory iron heads have large gaps at the valley joint making it impossible to use the modified stock valley tray.

3. I put the tape down first make a nicer bead, it's optional.
4. That’s indeed the purpose: Make a versatile valley tray out of a cheap part.