Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#1400558
03/11/13 01:44 AM
03/11/13 01:44 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,005 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,005
U.S.S.A.
|
Quote:
69 b-body w/383. edelbrock carb. where would be the best place to wire in my electric choke ?
I'll tell you the wrong place ... I don't give a [censored] what anyone else has done ... the positive side of the coil.
|
|
|
Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: JohnRR]
#1400559
03/11/13 08:29 AM
03/11/13 08:29 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,526 North Carolina
cjskotni
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,526
North Carolina
|
Quote:
Quote:
69 b-body w/383. edelbrock carb. where would be the best place to wire in my electric choke ?
I'll tell you the wrong place ... I don't give a [censored] what anyone else has done ... the positive side of the coil.
While this is the proper circuit and will get power when the key is in the run position, it is taking the voltage from the wrong part of the circuit. At the positive terminal of the coil, the voltage has been stepped down by the ballast so this terminal will only get a fraction of the 12V that the choke needs to open.
I would suggest you tap into the blue wire on the voltage regulator or blue wire on the hi side of the ballast (dash side - not coil side) which is the same circuit. This will give you full voltage when the key is in the run position.
|
|
|
Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: cjskotni]
#1400560
03/11/13 10:17 AM
03/11/13 10:17 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,005 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,005
U.S.S.A.
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
69 b-body w/383. edelbrock carb. where would be the best place to wire in my electric choke ?
I'll tell you the wrong place ... I don't give a [censored] what anyone else has done ... the positive side of the coil.
While this is the proper circuit and will get power when the key is in the run position, it is taking the voltage from the wrong part of the circuit. At the positive terminal of the coil, the voltage has been stepped down by the ballast so this terminal will only get a fraction of the 12V that the choke needs to open.
That is what I was saying,also it takes a lot of power from the circuit and can pull the voltage down lower ...
|
|
|
Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: 62maxwgn]
#1400562
03/11/13 11:30 AM
03/11/13 11:30 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,005 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,005
U.S.S.A.
|
Quote:
Put it here !
You put a lot more effort and thought into connecting it like that than your typical ... just connect it to the positive side of the coil ... recommendation.
|
|
|
Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: JohnRR]
#1400563
03/11/13 01:19 PM
03/11/13 01:19 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
|
master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
|
the correct source is the RUN circuit ( blue wire ) BEFORE the ballast. No matter if regulator or ballast itself.
Which is in fact what FACTORY DID
Coil wire ( blue on earliers, brown on laters ) is NOT the correct source.
On dual field alts, which are the cars with brown wire running to coil, you can splice the source from the same blue wire running to alt field
The reason why the Coil wire IS NOT the correct source, is because the choke will increases load, heating the ballast too, and this CHANGES how the ballast works to feed the coil. Remember the Ballast varies the resistor value to changes the power to coil depending on load and engine bay temp
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
|
|
|
Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: 2abodymcodes]
#1400565
03/11/13 07:53 PM
03/11/13 07:53 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889 up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
|
About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
|
What I do is this, I use the blue wire mentioned by others to trip a relay that feeds the choke from the alternator output stud. I also do the same for the feed to the ballast.
Furthermore, I use the thermal resistor in the picture above to assist in controlling the rate of opening. It essentially slows the rate down when it's cold out.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question. They say there is always the exception that proves the rule. Don't be the exception.
|
|
|
Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: Supercuda]
#1400567
03/12/13 12:16 PM
03/12/13 12:16 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
|
master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
|
Quote:
Furthermore, I use the thermal resistor in the picture above to assist in controlling the rate of opening. It essentially slows the rate down when it's cold out.
actually is a control unit for opening, nothing to do when gets cold, since once you cut the power this doesn't work.
There are two kind of these, one with balast and others without ballast.
ballast are double stage kind which sends two diff rates of voltage according with engine bay temp. Used on BB cars
without ballast are single stage, just one voltage rate, used on SB and /6
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
|
|
|
Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1400568
03/12/13 01:17 PM
03/12/13 01:17 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 765 Shoreline, Washington
72roadrunnergtx
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 765
Shoreline, Washington
|
Those mid-late seventies Chrysler choke controls should not be used with aftermarket electric choke heaters. They are designed to cut off, or reduce in the case of the two stage versions, after a few minutes, the current flow to the original heated devoiced choke springs as they pulled close to 2 amps of current at full voltage and additional heat would not be required later in the run cycle. Aftermarket electric choke heaters pull about .5 amps and are designed and calibrated to have full 12 volts for the full duration of the run cycle. Without the full voltage after warm-up, the choke spring will cool off and apply the choke while the engine is warm, only source of heat to keep the choke spring relaxed. A reduced voltage, as would be the case if connected to the coil side of the ballast resistor will result in the slowing down or prolonging the choke application outside of its design specs. At .5 amps, for most cars, a relay would not be required and is not specified by aftermarket carb manufactures.
|
|
|
Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: 72roadrunnergtx]
#1400570
03/12/13 05:15 PM
03/12/13 05:15 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,436 Blair County,PA
62maxwgn
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,436
Blair County,PA
|
Quote:
Without the full voltage after warm-up, the choke spring will cool off and apply the choke while the engine is warm, only source of heat to keep the choke spring relaxed.
Not in my case,my choke assembly is from a 62 300H with internal constant vacuum operated piston to keep open same as later Hemi choke assemblies,along with engine heat,I have no problem with choke staying open after voltage cut off.
|
|
|
Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: 62maxwgn]
#1400571
03/12/13 06:58 PM
03/12/13 06:58 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 765 Shoreline, Washington
72roadrunnergtx
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 765
Shoreline, Washington
|
It appears you are running a later two stage choke control, with the by-pass resistor. If the choke control is operating now as originally designed, your heater is getting full voltage for the first several minutes after cold start and then a reduced voltage after the controller times out. Never cut-off entirely, this reduced heat combined with engine heat may be sufficient to keep the spring relaxed. This same question about were to connect electric chokes comes up here regularly and 99.9% of the time it involves current aftermarket carbs, by design they are designed to have full voltage, to keep the choke off, during the complete run cycle. Unlike the choke heaters the controllers were designed for, the aftermarket heaters pull much less current, controllers and relays are not necessary for most applications.
|
|
|
Re: hooking up electric choke ?
[Re: 72roadrunnergtx]
#1400572
03/12/13 10:41 PM
03/12/13 10:41 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421 Balt. Md
383man
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
|
Quote:
Those mid-late seventies Chrysler choke controls should not be used with aftermarket electric choke heaters. They are designed to cut off, or reduce in the case of the two stage versions, after a few minutes, the current flow to the original heated devoiced choke springs as they pulled close to 2 amps of current at full voltage and additional heat would not be required later in the run cycle. Aftermarket electric choke heaters pull about .5 amps and are designed and calibrated to have full 12 volts for the full duration of the run cycle. Without the full voltage after warm-up, the choke spring will cool off and apply the choke while the engine is warm, only source of heat to keep the choke spring relaxed. A reduced voltage, as would be the case if connected to the coil side of the ballast resistor will result in the slowing down or prolonging the choke application outside of its design specs. At .5 amps, for most cars, a relay would not be required and is not specified by aftermarket carb manufactures.
I agree as you know what you are talking about. One thing to remember also is that the electric choke as shown in the pic on one of the post that Mopar used in the mid 70's and up is an Electric Assist choke as it still has the coil mounted in the intake crossover to stay hot after it opens. The electric assist choke Mopar used was made to open the choke faster for emissions as thats why it still used the normal choke coil mounted in the exh crossover in the intake. They just wanted the choke off faster to reduce emmissions even if us techs had to figure out hot to keep the cars from stalling and hesitating from the choke coming off to fast. But these newer Eddy carbs look to me to be a full electric choke not an electric assist to the normal heated choke. So they need to keep current to them so they stay open once they open as I dont believe the newer Eddy carbs that look like the old AFB's and AVS's dont have the vacum piston in them to draw in eng heat like the old ones did as they are full electric I believe. Ron
|
|
|
|
|