Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Well still happy with my boring plain old 16V XS Power batteries...They work great for me but maybe I need more compression.

---

---

I think might have more to do with cu. in. than the CR!

Quote:

---

Heck its Winter time. We could be talking about "how to paint my Mopar with a paint roller"

---

Isnt that the truth ... but I still use a spray gun

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Heck its Winter time. We could be talking about "how to paint my Mopar with a paint roller"

---

Isnt that the truth ... but I still use a spray gun

---

Wagner power painter??

While I can see Don's electronic wizardry kicking in OD... I'd still be thinking of the basics... Do I want to carry two batts in my race car?? Answer for me has been a resounding NO. I have one 12v batt on the car. I have the water pump and fan wired into a four pole plug that I hook up to a separate battery when I hit the pit area for cool down. I also have two good batteries in my tow vehicle which if the need arises, they are ready to go. I do run an alternator, and the wiring for the waterpump getting damaged by an flinging belt is astronomincal (anything can happen!).

....while I do my burnout with the water pump and fan on, I shut both of them down on my final stage and trip the waterpump as soon as I cross the stripe.... it's served me well and to date i've never had any reprocussions. Basically I'm only powering the fuel pump and ignition on a pass.

Quote:

---

....while I do my burnout with the water pump and fan on, I shut both of them down on my final stage and trip the waterpump as soon as I cross the stripe.... it's served me well and to date i've never had any reprocussions. Basically I'm only powering the fuel pump and ignition on a pass.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

....while I do my burnout with the water pump and fan on, I shut both of them down on my final stage and trip the waterpump as soon as I cross the stripe.... it's served me well and to date i've never had any reprocussions. Basically I'm only powering the fuel pump and ignition on a pass.

---

J-body... The only problem I was having was cranking the motor over.. if it wasnt done just right, we'd get kickback and aweful screeching/grinding sound.. even with two 12V batteries... fully charged and hooked together..

My first thought was to convert to the 16V system, but I dont have the pocketbook the other members of the B1-aires Boys club have.. so I had to get a little creative..

---

I'm like the others know very little about the batteries,but trying to learn.But a $269.00 16 volt Rock battery will solve your kick back problems on start up.Since going to 16 volts have not had that happen or broke any starters or flywheels,Hmmm that might answer my question on 16 volts vs 12 volts!Most of us can tell anyone what heads,cam,carb,crank,ect-ect,but we don't know Sh*t about batteries.
PS after we get straight on the Batteries,we can always start another post on alternators vs no alternators test session!

Quote:

---

This is for guys wanting to run a 12v system, with no alternater or a constant discharge situation.
This info comes from a chart showing lead acid battery voltage versus draw.
We want to figure the running voltage at two points, WOT at the top end of the run, (highest load during run) and warm cranking voltage when battery is 50 percent discharged, to see whether the ignition will still work and get the car running for the pass.
To calculate the percent of draw in amp hr rating, an example is a 10 amp continuous draw on a 100 amp/hr battery is 10 percent, or stated as c/10. A 5 percent draw would be 5amps on a 100 amp hour battery, etc. Amp/hr rating divided by draw equals c/xx, and then you can check the chart for running voltage. For our purposes, a running voltage at 50 percent discharge on a twelve volt battery is about what I figure is about as low as we can go to figure our capacity for number of runs we can make with a given load and still get back to the pits. Below 50 percent charge, voltage starts to drop much faster.
At 5 percent draw under load the running voltage is 12.3
10 percent, rv is 12.0
20 percent rv is 11.55
33 percent rv is 11.20
You can see how the voltage drops off during running as the load increases, so battery size is very important. I figure I had better not pick a battery with less than 10 times my draw at WOT, which is a water pump and MSD digital seven ignition plus the Deadenbear box. So I need to figure two things, how many passes before the battery will be at or less than 50 percent charge on the return road, and how much battery I need to stay below a 10 percent draw during a run. I will update with the draw of my stuff.
battery chart
http://www.scubaengineer.com/documents/lead_acid_battery_charging_graphs.pdf

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

This is for guys wanting to run a 12v system, with no alternater or a constant discharge situation.
This info comes from a chart showing lead acid battery voltage versus draw.
We want to figure the running voltage at two points, WOT at the top end of the run, (highest load during run) and warm cranking voltage when battery is 50 percent discharged, to see whether the ignition will still work and get the car running for the pass.
To calculate the percent of draw in amp hr rating, an example is a 10 amp continuous draw on a 100 amp/hr battery is 10 percent, or stated as c/10. A 5 percent draw would be 5amps on a 100 amp hour battery, etc. Amp/hr rating divided by draw equals c/xx, and then you can check the chart for running voltage. For our purposes, a running voltage at 50 percent discharge on a twelve volt battery is about what I figure is about as low as we can go to figure our capacity for number of runs we can make with a given load and still get back to the pits. Below 50 percent charge, voltage starts to drop much faster.
At 5 percent draw under load the running voltage is 12.3
10 percent, rv is 12.0
20 percent rv is 11.55
33 percent rv is 11.20
You can see how the voltage drops off during running as the load increases, so battery size is very important. I figure I had better not pick a battery with less than 10 times my draw at WOT, which is a water pump and MSD digital seven ignition plus the Deadenbear box. So I need to figure two things, how many passes before the battery will be at or less than 50 percent charge on the return road, and how much battery I need to stay below a 10 percent draw during a run. I will update with the draw of my stuff.
battery chart
http://www.scubaengineer.com/documents/lead_acid_battery_charging_graphs.pdf

---

My amperage draw during a run=
MSD 7 7.5 amps
water pump 7.0amps
delay box 1.0 amps
Total constant running amps = 15.5 amps
Momentary draw during staging
transbrake 20 amps?

---

Quote:

---

So what does two GOOD 12V batteries, a 12V charger and 12V alternator cost?? You point out the total to switch to 16V ignoring the original cost of the 12V stuff. I dont think that is a fair comparison as SOMEONE Paid for the 12V stuff. It's an "upgrade" like anything else on a racear. Do you need 15-1 compression and B1 heads or could you have a racecar with 906 heads and 10-1 compression. Could you have a raceaar with a stock block or do you NEED a World block? IMO you need to make a fair comparison like anything else on a racecar.

Oh yeah K.I.S.S

---