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I would never go over 12.5:1 compression with a 10 bolt head. I was told a long time ago (by a very wise Herb McCandless) that I would benefit more from a lightweight rotating assembly than I would by trying to add compression over 12:1. Different story with an 18 bolt head and R3 block.

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That compression number mean nothing, its all in the
valve closing

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Buy the 1.6 ratio rockers, not the 1.5 Same price so get the increased lift and effective duration

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THIS is the way to go! Even w/1.6 rocker only about .600 lift on intake.
Let that money thats burning a hole in your pocket cool down and get a
game plan before you order parts that won't work.
Ask questions and buy smart, you will be much happier with the results!

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This thread is a certafied s#!t show

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And why do you say that?

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This thread is a certafied s#!t show

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I HAVE TO AGREE Sb Valiant Please don't take this wrong and stop comming here for advice. Here is what I have learned from reading and asking questions on Moparts on how to build a motor. You can throw 50% of the post away because thats how many that have no clue how to build their own junk or their junk is still in pieces.You can throw 20 percent away because those guys have way to much money and you can never get the espensive parts they want you to get.Then about 15% are great guys and can answer tech questions and will steer you in the right direction. Then the last 15% are people that could care less.They just add fluff and crap from what they have read.These people have no car or a motor but someday they are going to build a monster.
I will give you a little advice. First thing you need to have is a plan.Sounds if you have this.Do a search on moparts on 408 builds. You can see many motors that are running and the outcome.You can see what parts will work together and make power. Second thing is a budjit. This is cold hard cash that you either have or can make in a short time. I find most guys want the best parts and spend till the money is gone and the build is half done. Then people like me buy their junk for half price a couple years later. Third Buy the best quialty parts you can cheap. You can find deals all the time from the guys I talked about in number 2 step.#4 Stay away from fancy parts like aluminum rods and caps and gear drives and bushed lifter bores and so on. All cost more money up front then double the machining cost and some cases less engine life.I would never buy a used set of aluminum rods. They have a life of so many cycles and after that its like a gun with one bullet in the chamber and when will that chamber come to the top. Build a motor that you can put 200 pass's a year then store it and do it again the next year. Mabe the third year tip it upside down and check the bearings. If you did everything right you put the pan back on and your ready for the next season.THE BIGGEST THING OF ALL!! Make sure your engine shop is the best one you have in the area and you can see the motors that have been built by him.Every engine builder is only as good as the last one he built.Never let him steer you to what he has to sell you for your motor.Most likely its parts he was traded for labor and he has no clue if they good or junk.The guy the does heads cheap? Thats where you make the HP.If he does not port heads for a profession leave the heads alone and do a good 3 angle valve grind and make sure the push rods are not hitting anywhere and the heads are flat.Don't worry about flow numbers.Some head porters can make any head flow the number you want even if it not true and plus you can take the same head to anouther shop with a flow machine and get a differant flow number. All I can say is a crap port job will kill you.
I have a friend that has a low cost Abody that races at mine and his home track that truly amazes me on how fast that car goes. He is in the 10s and if he can do it you can.

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This thread is a certafied s#!t show

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I HAVE TO AGREE Sb Valiant Please don't take this wrong and stop comming here for advice. Here is what I have learned from reading and asking questions on Moparts on how to build a motor. You can throw 50% of the post away because thats how many that have no clue how to build their own junk or their junk is still in pieces.You can throw 20 percent away because those guys have way to much money and you can never get the espensive parts they want you to get.Then about 15% are great guys and can answer tech questions and will steer you in the right direction. Then the last 15% are people that could care less.They just add fluff and crap from what they have read.These people have no car or a motor but someday they are going to build a monster.
I will give you a little advice. First thing you need to have is a plan.Sounds if you have this.Do a search on moparts on 408 builds. You can see many motors that are running and the outcome.You can see what parts will work together and make power. Second thing is a budjit. This is cold hard cash that you either have or can make in a short time. I find most guys want the best parts and spend till the money is gone and the build is half done. Then people like me buy their junk for half price a couple years later. Third Buy the best quialty parts you can cheap. You can find deals all the time from the guys I talked about in number 2 step.#4 Stay away from fancy parts like aluminum rods and caps and gear drives and bushed lifter bores and so on. All cost more money up front then double the machining cost and some cases less engine life.I would never buy a used set of aluminum rods. They have a life of so many cycles and after that its like a gun with one bullet in the chamber and when will that chamber come to the top. Build a motor that you can put 200 pass's a year then store it and do it again the next year. Mabe the third year tip it upside down and check the bearings. If you did everything right you put the pan back on and your ready for the next season.THE BIGGEST THING OF ALL!! Make sure your engine shop is the best one you have in the area and you can see the motors that have been built by him.Every engine builder is only as good as the last one he built.Never let him steer you to what he has to sell you for your motor.Most likely its parts he was traded for labor and he has no clue if they good or junk.The guy the does heads cheap? Thats where you make the HP.If he does not port heads for a profession leave the heads alone and do a good 3 angle valve grind and make sure the push rods are not hitting anywhere and the heads are flat.Don't worry about flow numbers.Some head porters can make any head flow the number you want even if it not true and plus you can take the same head to anouther shop with a flow machine and get a differant flow number. All I can say is a crap port job will kill you.
I have a friend that has a low cost Abody that races at mine and his home track that truly amazes me on how fast that car goes. He is in the 10s and if he can do it you can.

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This thread is a certafied s#!t show

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And why do you say that?

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Slippery440 is right on the money, very good advice!

Actually that cam is perfect for what he has, installed @106 w/good valve job = 500hp @7000 that would run all day long. It would need compression so pump gas isn't gonna work.
Properly assembled with No tricks And NO aluminum rods!

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