I have read "horror stories" about solid roller lifters coming apart, bronze gears wearing out and etc. on solid rollers used on the street. I have a STREET car with a 540" HEMI with a solid roller cam and would like some opinions. Here is my set up: Solid bronze bushed lifter bores with NO oil holes, .248/.254 @ .050 tight lash (.016/.018) Street cam. The springs are 953-16 listed at 148lb on the seat and 456lb @ .650 lift, (My net lift is .588/.573). The engine obviously is low rpm, (5,900 max HP) and has a 6,000 rpm chip. On a trip, the tack stays below 3,000 rpm at highway speed. Of course it has a bronze gear. I use 10/30 Valvaline race synthetic and cold oil pressure is 80lb. while hot cruise is 60lb. Hot idle is 30lb. My qestion is: do I have to worry about driving the car 200+ miles one way to a cruise in? Are the lifters/bronze gear subject to destroy my engine without warning? Or are the horror stories limited to 7500+ rpm, .800 lift engines that are driven on the street? I know that this section deals mostly with "race" comboes, but I think you guys have far more experiance with solid rollers than do the "restoration" guys. Thanks in advance for your experiance/advice. Oh, I have 1,100 trouble free miles on the engine with one valve check/adjust at 500 miles with no adjustment, metal shavings, or obvious wear noted.

What lifters are you using?
What rocker arms? (do they have oil holes to the pushrod cups)

One of the issues with solid rollers in street hemis is that they burn the pushrod cup because there's not much oil getting there at lower RPMS. Street driving is worse for this because there's minimal splash. But your over-the-nose spring pressure is pretty low so you may not be in that area. Now that you have 1100 miles on the motor pull off the valve covers and look very closely at the pushrod cups. They will show some bluing if they are not getting enough oil.

On solid roller street hemis I like to oil through the pushrod and use high pressure oil to the lifter rollers. Crane makes a great lifter for that. But you don't have that option without oil holes in the bushings.

Although the lifters are new, I am not shure of their manufacture. I think they may be Crower or Erson. The rockers are stock Mopar.

i don't have any trick oiling on mine. don't even have the lifter bores bushed. my spring pressures are probably a little excessive for the cam, (street roller) but i wanted to be safe in case i missed a gear with the stick. i run 250 on the seat a 600 over the nose. the comp 829 lifters are a maintenance item, i pull them every two years and send them back for a rebuild. other than that its trouble free, and it does get driven. i check the gear at the same time. never had a problem with burnt cups. if your geometry is right and with the lower spring pressure i would say just keep an eye on things when you check the lash. unless the lifters oil the bearings they will eventuality wear out on the street every so often. nothing major enough to change to a flat tappet.

My 440 has the same size solid roller cam as your motor, I also have crower lifters. My bronze gear drive looks like new after 2500 miles.
I have a SB mopar with a solid roller in it and I did Hot Rod dragweek with the car last September, 1400 miles in five days and 9 1/4 passes. I checked the valve lash once just because, and all was good.

If you have good parts and the cam isn't very aggressive, you'll be fine. My block has no lifter oil galleys. There's plenty of oil from splash and drainback to lube the lifters. Been running the same block/cam/lifters since 2006 w/ no issues on the street and strip. I use Isky Red Zone lifters.