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Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions [Re: attaboy] #1360526
12/29/12 10:54 PM
12/29/12 10:54 PM
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Portland, Oregon
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Digger73 Offline
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With an aluminum water pump housing the ground potential could be the problem. Ohm out the difference between the cast iron block to the negative on the battery and, ohm out the resistance to the water pump housing to the negative on the battery. Also you should check the engine to body ground. For the sender to be correct there should be no difference.
As said in an earlier post, the gauge and sender work on resistance and everything is in reference to ground.

Digger73


I live with fear everyday but, sometimes she lets me race!
Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions [Re: Digger73] #1360527
12/29/12 11:00 PM
12/29/12 11:00 PM
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Posts: 12,494
Western Colorado High Desert
moparmarks Offline
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Western Colorado High Desert
Aluminum is a lot better conductor than iron so dought that is a problem but yes does need a good body to motor ground bonding.


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Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions [Re: moparmarks] #1360528
12/30/12 01:05 AM
12/30/12 01:05 AM
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,526
North Carolina
cjskotni Offline OP
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North Carolina
I have one of the negative straps from the neg battery cable itself and the fender ground strap on the motor. I don't think grounding is the issue. I will investigate replacing the sender with the Moapr unit.

Anybody have a part number or source of where I can get the "official" sender for my car? Should be the same as the 60s thru the 70s and probably 80s as well....

Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions [Re: cjskotni] #1360529
12/30/12 02:04 AM
12/30/12 02:04 AM
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Posts: 1,028
NB, Canada
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moparfan53 Offline
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Quote:

...Anybody have a part number or source of where I can get the "official" sender for my car? Should be the same as the 60s thru the 70s and probably 80s as well....



This thread may help.
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=7352617

Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions [Re: moparfan53] #1360530
12/30/12 02:24 AM
12/30/12 02:24 AM
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,106
Northeast
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VincentVega Offline
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Northeast
as stated, no, this is not normal behavior no matter what thermostat you are running. something is wrong.

Also, the temp sending switch appears to have changed mid 1970s. non-leanburn part number is 4051140. So, I am sure this number is useless to you, even if it would work.

I found it under the electrical system if anyone wants to shoot him the previous number.

You might try blasting the heater while the car does this, just to make sure you didn't put the thermostat in backwards, or something. If the coolant really is getting hot like that, you'll feel it in the heater. under normal op, the temp should come up slowly. only in an overheat situation will it go full H. if you are missing coolant, it will overheat and sometimes not even move the gauge since it's now decoupled from what's going on in the block.

One last thing, I would never assume all went well with your reconditioning.


Looking for 1975 through 1978 B body 4 door sedan sheet metal or parts cars - monaco, fury, coronet. Please let me know
Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions [Re: cjskotni] #1360531
12/30/12 05:41 AM
12/30/12 05:41 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,465
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:



A 195 degree stat is the OEM temperature.




what year is the car you are working on and where did you get that info ?

According to my 69 service manual the stock thermo temp is 190 , it's 200 for the 170" /6 .




The car is a 1973 Charger. Both Advace Auto and Rock Auto show a 195 degree stat as OEM temp (what I have). They have 180 and 160 degree units available but they are not OEM temp according to them. Maybe it's an early 70's emissions thing to let the motor run hotter?

I may go to a 180 degree stat but as I understand it, putting in a lower temp stat is not going to fix a cooling issue...it's just a bandaid. Not to say 180 is really a low temp stat but you get what I am saying...

I have an aluminum WP housing and I have pegged it with the IR thermometer when it was warmed up and I have never seen it get above 165 or so around the sender.

However, I can peg it near the distributor and at a few points near the oil pump and it can get 205 or so on a HOT day. With IR thermometer, radiator gets a 30+ degree drop IIRC.




The parts stores temp senders have the WRONG RESISTANCE values.

You need to add resistors in paralel to get them to read right. Use you infared thermometer gun and add/substract resistance. Get a resistor pack from Radio Shack with combination of resistors around 10 ohms.

Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions [Re: autoxcuda] #1360532
12/30/12 10:55 AM
12/30/12 10:55 AM
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,526
North Carolina
cjskotni Offline OP
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Quote:

The parts stores temp senders have the WRONG RESISTANCE values.

You need to add resistors in paralel to get them to read right. Use you infared thermometer gun and add/substract resistance. Get a resistor pack from Radio Shack with combination of resistors around 10 ohms.





If this is the case (why not it's only Mopar?), then has anybody ever thought to post the proper resistance range for the OEM sender so we can compare? I can imagine this would be hard to do for somebody who has one....

Also, is it safe to say that if the aluminum WP housing is pegging around 165* with the IR thermometer, then the coolant inside would be within a few degress? Or could there be a huge difference?

Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions [Re: cjskotni] #1360533
12/30/12 11:24 AM
12/30/12 11:24 AM
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Posts: 74,976
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
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Quote:



Also, is it safe to say that if the aluminum WP housing is pegging around 165* with the IR thermometer, then the coolant inside would be within a few degress? Or could there be a huge difference?




The water inside will be the temp within a few degrees.

I'll ask again is the car boiling over ?

Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions [Re: JohnRR] #1360534
12/30/12 12:45 PM
12/30/12 12:45 PM
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Posts: 1,526
North Carolina
cjskotni Offline OP
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Quote:

Quote:



Also, is it safe to say that if the aluminum WP housing is pegging around 165* with the IR thermometer, then the coolant inside would be within a few degress? Or could there be a huge difference?




The water inside will be the temp within a few degrees.

I'll ask again is the car boiling over ?




No signs of boiling over...no steam from the cap. I am thinking cap is 13lbs by the way....

The cap is one of the Mr. Gasket with the built in temp probe. I have never seen it get above 140-150* but then again, have no idea how accurate that is...

Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions **UPDATE** [Re: cjskotni] #1360535
12/30/12 06:09 PM
12/30/12 06:09 PM
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Posts: 1,526
North Carolina
cjskotni Offline OP
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I managed to get the car where I could drive it 10 or so miles and same behavior on warm up, but the temp fell slightly above mid range on the gauge once the car was moving.

Granted this was on a cool day (40-50*). When I got home, I pegged some areas with the thermometer.

- WP housing 165* +- 5*
- right at sender unit 135*
- engine heads near intake 160*
- radiator near inlet (upper hose) 125*
- radiator near outlet (lower hose) 90*

Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions **UPDATE** [Re: cjskotni] #1360536
01/10/13 07:42 PM
01/10/13 07:42 PM
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Posts: 1,526
North Carolina
cjskotni Offline OP
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Thought I'd fill you guys in on some things I have learned from this. I bought an OEM sender unit and installed it along with a 180 degree "superstat". I confirmed that the t-stat unit in there before was indeed a 195 degree unit.

Now, the thermostat opens when then temp gauge is about dead center and then falls to the low end of the normal range when left running in place with the electric fans engaged.

I measured the resistance across the units and the OEM unit shows about 320 ohms at room temp where as the aftermarket was closer to 200 ohms. I am guessing this might have been throwing the gauge off.

It's crap like this that makes me wonder why I didn't just buy a friggen Camaro or Mustang!

Re: Stock Temp Gauge Questions **UPDATE** [Re: cjskotni] #1360537
01/12/13 05:36 PM
01/12/13 05:36 PM
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
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Yancy Derringer Offline
mopar
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Montana
Quote:


It's crap like this that makes me wonder why I didn't just buy a friggen Camaro or Mustang!




If you think GM/ Ferd gauges are any better you are delusional. Ferd gauges, especially, work almost exactly like Mopar, right down to the voltage limiter.

Most of these modern problems are caused by

40 year old cars and wiring

Cheap Chineseo replacement parts

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