yeah, but for super boo-coo $$$$. Almost a museum piece at this point.
I'll stay with my iron Dana for now till something attractive comes along.

I know this has nothing to do with removing weight but I had the thought that reducing frictional loss wherever applicable could result in a similar quest.

Things like engine blueprinting ensuring everything is as close to equal as possible, looser clearances and windage, looser brakes, small diff yoke, rollerized transmission parts, etc. Basically stock eliminator type stuff. Some of these ideas might not be real practical on the street but for race-only cars they would be a worthwhile endeavor.

It might be obvious to most here but regardless, I think its born of the same mindset, trying to make a car quicker by looking in places that you normally would not. Like weight reduction, its also an age-old idea and not really OOTB so much but it is one that could use some more exploration. Might be cool to see some of those ideas presented as a whole.

Just thinking out loud. Carry on.

a lot of gains to be found losing friction in the suspension. People have been know to replace rubber bushings with bearings.

You're right.
There is a lot to be left behind and gained with Blueprinting, rollerized and smaller items etc.
About the only two things that I have explored and applied is the engine blueprinting and keeping my factory drum brakes. Not only are the factory drums lighter than the factory Disc, they can be backed off at the track for some free wheeling power. Now stopping with them is a whole other dark art. That's why I only do it at the tracks with a lot of shut down area.
On the street, I suggest bringing 'em back for some drag on the brakes.

To galvanize this discussion, I was running my old Police package at E-town this weekend and put a couple of low 17.90's on the board during trials. Took the heavy tool box, spare tire, jack and other misc stuff out of the trunk which accounted for at least a 100 lbs, and clicked off 17.60's and high 50's for the rest of the day.
My lane was sticky all day long, so no abuse to the puny 8.25 Police rear end. LOL.

This is what the Chevy guys said.......You say this car is 4000 Lbs? LOL.

A little off the top keeps the bottom dollar safe.
1.80 ounces less than the steel bolts. Don't worry, it's just cover bolts.

yes, the bolts are aluminum. The box of course is also.

I used Titanium bolts for the cover and an aluminium pipe plug for the filler. I also trimmed off all the casting flash and any excess material as I do with everything. The adjuster will get a titanium lock nut in due course.

I wish I would have done a Van Gogh move and cut off the cast in motor mount ears on the block since I am using a motor plate and they are not needed. They must weigh all combined at least two or three pounds.
At first I was hesitant to cut 'em because I thought that maybe they were serving as a strength point for the block, but now know better. On the next build.
As far as the filler tube, Are you meaning the filler tube to the oil pan on the engine? That's a neat idea.

Here are my new 6AL4V Titanium studs to be mounted on the front hubs. 15.6 ounces for all ten pieces at a cost of $100. Should save close to a pound, but I'll weigh it all together and get back to you'll later. Costly, but nice looking metal.

So here's something that has been on the back burner for a NY minute. I've finally found a great welder that can and will do my welding when I need it. With that, I've now been able to get back to my cross member project on a step by step basis in between work. It takes patience, good material and good eyes to make sure it all comes together nicely and strong.
This is 6061 T-6 material. I should have it all capped off, filed and formed by next week or sooner and show you'll a comparison to the stock unit.

Trans mount nest.

Nice beads

I got 'em in Africa.

Here's the calm after the aluminum storm. I don't even know how I construct things within this mess. LOL.

Creating a break formed rib to strengthen the outer walls on the cross member just like the factory did.

Here's the outer strengthening wing.
As you can see, the stresses associated with a hammering in a compound bend made some corners collapse or crack. This is reduced almost entirely by drilling small holes at the end of the bend and or crack thus allowing the metal to give a little and then filling in the holes later with weld.

Wallah, here's the finished welded form and the unit is ready for a date at the Barbers with a file to round the edges and bring that factory stamped look. Mounting holes will be carefully measured and drilled out soon, that in itself should shed off an ounce,LOL.
By the way, this fiasco shredded 2-1/2 Lbs all together weighing 1-1/2 Lbs compared to the factory unit which weighed 4.3 Lbs.