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Which set of these shims/nuts do you think will get the boot?
On one side for the fender aprons, an ounce was shaved with the aluminum versions. On the passenger side, a whopping 2-3/4 ounces were removed being that there were five steel shims to seat and align that fender correctly.
Fairly easy to make using flat stock aluminum and cutting/filing a U-shape slot for the fastener.

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Better yet, is plastic shims that can be bought at HD as flat stock. Just drill through a stack and use what you need. Half the weight of the aluminum and easier to work with.

It can even be U shaped slotted fast with a drill bit or die grinder.

I posted this before, somewhere in the thousand or so posts on this thread.

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(14) Trans oil pan bolts saved almost 4.5 ounces. The engine oil pan bolts saved an additional 5.5 ounces. In English, that translates to 1/2 pound.
I used 2024-T4 bolts with aluminum lock washers.
By the way, that Moroso fabricated aluminum pan saved 4 pounds from the cast aluminum pan I had before.

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(14) By the way, that Moroso fabricated aluminum pan saved 4 pounds from the cast aluminum pan I had before.

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The old Mopar chrome one might create more heat in the fluid than its worth. I'd rather stay with an old and true deep regular steel one if the budget is tight. The steel one is I believe lighter than the cast aluminum types.

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Yes, If I remember correctly, I used the 518 pan as well. It would be my next choice over an aluminum cast type. Though they say that the fins cast into the bottoms belly make for more cooling effects.
Less weight creates less heat because of less stress.

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