Thank you.
Yeah, some of my friends call me Jenny Craig but I like to be more known as Jack-la-lee's super car health spar.LOL.
Like I've said, I will publish my pocket size book for the masses, then I can afford that AFX stainless K-member.LOL.

Here are the aluminum studs with their respective aluminum lock washers and nuts ready to replace the stainless steel studs and nuts on the valve covers.

One valve covers worth of stainless studs and hardware weight.

One valve covers worth of aluminum studs and hardware weight. Of course in ounces.

as you mentioned a stainless k, wouldn't a dipped standard k be as light ? I thought those stainless ones were a thinner gage material, just made of stainless because the material supposedly made up the strength difference ? or couldn't you control the dip to maintain the strength needed in a steel k ? I'm not really sold on stainless being a stronger material unless it is a different alloy than the commonly available 416,303,304,316, etc. stuff that I have worked with. I know there are stronger alloys out there, but I don't know what they are, and I have not machined or welded anything except those I mentioned.

Believe it or not, my K is more or less bone stock since all I did was cut off and sand smooth the original motor mounts positions.
The K is a very important part to the cars front end stability and I just will not dip it because dipping has a tendency to really weaken or thin out areas that can not be seen by the naked eye, so off limits for me on that technique even with controlled dip periods.
That is why I limit dipping to non crucial components that basically hang there for the ride. Doors are the most stretch that I would go.

The Factory experimented with Magnesium and thin gauge stainless K's, but it was the stainless K's that more or less made limited production but were prone to cracking from the violent wheel stands and drunkenness of the AFX's.
Stainless depending on its alloy properties can stress crack often with out notice, so exotic alloys have been introduced to it through the military's usage of stainless. Perhaps aircraft grade 321 stainless may be able to hang in such unfriendly environments such as the K's. I don't know for sure.

I could not peacefully install a stainless K that has been through the gauntlet of past abuse, especially banged up, twisted and welded examples. It would have to be a perfect and unu$ed $ample and even then, I would practice an often rigorous multi-point inspection of its stress points. Good practice anyway in any quick car.

At days end, I will not go the tubular route, but rather shave and weld the side pinch rails a little like what DVW has meticulously done to his stock K or in a dream world scenario, have a completely stock looking type built out of titanium. It sure would be pretty.

Continuing on the ounce onslaught towards the first pound shaved (LOL) here are the four carburetor studs and hardware. Of course, for those not sharp eyed, these are obviously ounces, not pounds. Wish it were.

Here's the raw 6061-T6 aluminum 5/16-18 thread rod before going to the Dremel cut off wheel.

Four 6061-T6 hand cut studs and hardware. Lock washers are crucial here in keeping things from loosening up with the lack of #20 fine thread found usually at the studs nut end.
Carburetor is now snug and tight over its nest.

Here are various braces and hardware underneath that have shaved a few pounds off. The braces are made out of super strong 7075 -T aluminum as well as 6061-T6 bolts and nuts.

tidying up the "spaghetti" under the dash might get you a couple of ounces as well ?

Oh yeah, I've been wanting to do that for the longest and various reasons other than weight. I can't stand a messy trunk or messy under dash. Makes my hairs stand.LOL.

There is weight in wiring. I'll be sure that they will contribute to my ounce counts campaign in some format in the near future.

LOL.
Yes, yes, but locktite might just be that more stubborn than lock washers and strip the threads when removing for maintenance. Aluminum lock nuts on certain places also do a great job of holding tight and coming off with out a fight when needed.

Though I did not have 20 or so of the 2024-T4 bolts and lock washers to replace the old oil pan fasteners, I figured to show 'em before they screw into the block using lock washers and a very liberal amount of purple lock tite. The 17 pieces here weighed 2.55 ounces compared to just (one) steel pan bolt weighing in at.0.40 ounces.
Lets not forget the timing cover bolts.

It would be funny if, years from now, some young guy owns your car after you're dead and gone, starts tearing it apart for a resto and freaks out when he realizes what you did to the car. LOL

Trust me I've thought of this very same scenario. The car will come with a waiver if at best. Could quite put the Hemi A-bodies and AFX's to shame with the disclaimer in the glove box. LOL.
Though it will stay with me till I'm fired from earth, It should be a gem when found and unclassified. So far 26 ounces shaved, almost two pounds and lots of things to uncover yet.

1,574 oz to go. This is emotional therapy and Hot Rodding all rolled up into one. I'm now on my way to the 24 hour shrink.LOL.

Thumper, where you been at?
Thought you quit the featherweights anonymous club. LOL.

I feel you on your concerns. It's a concern for any car of value, but especially for a special materials piece.
I always think of such horrors such as a knucklehead plowing into me on these mean streets, but I do keep a Owl's eye on everyone on the road as well as keeping safe long distances from people out front and scooting from tail blazers out back. Nerve racking it is.
As far as the car, At least the chassis and other important things are still there and at full strength. Lots of 7075-6061-T, 2024-T and 6AL-4v materials through out. Maybe just as strong or stronger than steel. I think this is why so many new cars have plastic injected with aluminum these days to take most of the hits brunt.

Believe it or not, (and I know it depends on the type of hit and at what angle) a few years back, a good friend of mine that had some of my lightening tricks applied to his Duster's front end survived pretty much intact from a pretty rough spin out and hit into a divider wall on the BQE in the rain with street/strip tires. He was going 55 miles an hour. I was right behind him and had front row seats to the whole screw up. The bumper of which I did not like because it was fiberglass (Fiberglass Bias here) was the only fatality compared to all my various alloy brackets,braces and hardware supports. All the brackets took the brunt of the hit and were repairable. The car is now back on the road again.
Either way, fingers crossed and always crossing at the green, not in between.