I went overboard with my drill on the 4 speed pedals.

More holes. The stainless trim on the 68 is also lighter then the galvanized/chrome on the 69's, but still went on a diet.

More holes.

I also made my own aluminum steering column. Had it powdercoated, and then painted it the factory interior color.

Tubular K member. I welded some steel to a stock K member, cut off everything other then the mounting points, figured out where I could place the rack, and bent some tubing. I think it weighs 12 or 14 lbs, compared to 40 stock.

Good going.
Wow. 20,000 views on health spa for cars.

My "goal" is to have a race car that isn't gutted looking, yet weigh in around 3000lbs or less. My GTX is 3430 with me in it. Still has factory front and rear seats, stock front steering etc. So far weighing all the things I've built, lightened, I've cut around 250lbs off. The Road Runner is a round tube back half 4 link car, so getting it around 2950 with me should be doable.

Thanks for some of the ideas, some I have never thought about.

Anyone have a old set of Moroso aluminum vavle covers laying around?

You can usually find 'em cheap at the swaps. Just check that they are not ba$tard child abortions after being misused and abused with the over tightening.
I've seen 'em in very good condition for as little as $25 Dollars.

Good luck. It's an artform and a sense of achievement to start and make a full B-body light on the scales.

I have a few other cool ideas. I will post when they are finished and or realized in theory.
Just as a foot note, I browse an awful lot of magazines on Formula 1 racing and dirt track racing where some parts can find their way into the violent world of Drag racing. I've also discovered ideas by simply visually studying parts and how and why they function. Some parts I can make with my eyes closed, but would probably put them in jeopardy of failing if not left alone as they are.
As I say, choose your Collateral's wisely.

One idea was to have a Titanium rear and front slip yoke made, but the cost was too much to even fathom. Maybe Mark Williams or Dynotech will make a batch for us moparites for a change.
Rotating weight in a small sense being that the part in itself has no peripheral mass.

I've read that some of the stocker guys run the smaller 7260 joints for less rotating mass.

Anyone run a carbon fiber driveshaft?

Those stockers must have Automatic slush boxes because those 7260's would snap in a heart beat with a stick.
I'm running one of the last or the last Dynotech metal matrix driveshafts. Light as a feather for what it is made of.
The carbon shafts would shred on the street from rocks and foreign objects bouncing off its sides. Any little nic nac can create a stress point to start the shred.

Here's what I call the pill box where the trans mount will reside in as part of the aluminum trans member. Its made out of 6061 T6 as well.
I will photograph it in segments as I go along putting it all together. This pill box is obviously a thicker gauge aluminum then the cross member bridge itself so that it can take the torque better.
Man, If I ever get off my lazed up seating and learn how to tig weld aluminum, the world will never be the same. LOL.
Maybe I'll take a course this coming Summer. My friends are exhausted of me. LOL.

So here is the home made wood jig complete with plastic bolts to simulate the mounting of the cross member and its straightness to the chassis. The wood is temporarily glued to the bench to prevent movement away from my bench marks.

Here's my steel member sitting and nestled in the jig for measuring against the aluminum member when it takes shape closer.

So the pill box gets the ax and the larger side of the two halves gets the nod to house the actual polyurethane trans mount.

The trans mount slides in snug with very little play on either side.
More trimming on the pill box will take place as it is introduce to the main trans member.

Backing plate is welded into place for mount support from the rear.

Here's the original steel member with mount and all.
I'll post up the aluminum member as soon as it's welded together.