Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
#1347373
12/07/12 03:50 PM
12/07/12 03:50 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 957 Chicago
PurpleBeeper
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OP
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Chicago
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I haven’t rebuilt a carburetor in years and I’m confused. I have a 3310-3 Holley 750 vacuum secondary carburetor I just rebuilt and my car is “surging” like extra fuel is slipping in somewhere. I used a Holley “Quick Kit” which has several base/body gaskets and metering block gaskets. The original gaskets for this carburetor are long gone. How do I know which gaskets to use? HELP! Thanks Everyone!
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: PurpleBeeper]
#1347375
12/07/12 05:35 PM
12/07/12 05:35 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 957 Chicago
PurpleBeeper
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Maybe this will help... which base/main body gasket for a 3310-3?
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: Paul_Fancsali]
#1347376
12/07/12 05:40 PM
12/07/12 05:40 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 957 Chicago
PurpleBeeper
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Quote:
Every time I have had a surge it was from trying to lean out a carb too far , or the power valve is wrong . If you put under a 6.5 valve in you maybe surging due to that alone. Are the jets stock in front ?. Also be sure you have all ports closed, and make sure if you have a vac distributor that it is tied to a PORTED spot on the carb
Hey Paul, I'm 99% sure the carb isn't too lean since the tailpipes are black-sooty (plugs look decent though). I replaced the 6.5 power valve with a 3.5 power valve (I only have 9" vacuum at idle). The jets are #72 (I think #70 is stock) which doesn't seem too rich for this motor (272/284 duration cam). I'm running only the mechanical advance & blocked off all the un-used carb/intake ports. Any other ideas? Thanks!!!
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: PurpleBeeper]
#1347377
12/07/12 05:43 PM
12/07/12 05:43 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,494 Western Colorado High Desert
moparmarks
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I Live Here
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Western Colorado High Desert
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I can't count how many 3310s I've re-built over the years and I couldn't tell which gasket to use. Match up the gasket to the body. Just make sure they both have all the same holes. Do the same with the metering block gasket and the metering plate if it has one. Can't remember if the 3rd series has a plate or block on the sec. Also the wrong P/V gasket will dump fuel. Make sure the A/P has the check valve.
72 Satellite Sebring Plus 440, 72 Dart 5.9 4-spd, 68 Valiant, 73 W200, 78 D100 sb, 78 D200, 98 DAKOTA, . Moparmarks Parts & Restorations Desert Mopar Metal Grand Jct. CO 970-261-7039 http://moparmark.com/motormangj@gmail.com
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: moparmarks]
#1347379
12/07/12 06:33 PM
12/07/12 06:33 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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"surge" at a steady cruise speed? Then yes a lean misfire, a cyl or cyls is too lean to sucessfully fire making it slow down a perceptable amount which you are feeling. If not jetted too lean then a vac leak somewhere, carb or somewhere else (manifold/pcv/brake booster check valve)
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1347383
12/07/12 10:06 PM
12/07/12 10:06 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 957 Chicago
PurpleBeeper
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Quote:
"surge" at a steady cruise speed? Then yes a lean misfire, a cyl or cyls is too lean to sucessfully fire making it slow down a perceptable amount which you are feeling. If not jetted too lean then a vac leak somewhere, carb or somewhere else (manifold/pcv/brake booster check valve)
This sounds very possible 'cause my idle vacuum is pretty low.... but how can I track down that leak? I've blocked off the PCV hose and power brake hose with no noticeable change in idle vacuum (have vacuum gage on motor) and I don't hear a "hiss" + I've sprayed all over with carb cleaner & don't get any increase in idle.
Also, when the the car surges (occassionally at idle, but mainly at cruising speed) the vacuum gage does not change & the tachometer spikes "up" instead of "down".
Still.... so far this sounds the most likely. It idles fine, when I floor it the car takes off like a purple striped ape, but at cruising speed it "surges" or "bucks". I turned down my fuel pressure from 7psi to 5psi and put a black vacuum secondary spring in and replaced the power valve with a 3.5 and it "seemed" to get better, but it still "surges".
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: dogdays]
#1347384
12/07/12 10:15 PM
12/07/12 10:15 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 957 Chicago
PurpleBeeper
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Quote:
Recheck your float level, a lot of problems can result from a bad float setting.
A 3310-3 is a pretty early 750 cfm Model 4160 carb. It should have a metering block up front, a metering plate in the back, one accelerator pump and straight leg boosters. You use the body gasket that lines up best with the holes. Fuel doesn't get that far down in the carb anyway.
Holleys are generally rich from the factory so I'd go to stock jets if you are between sea level and 1600 feet.
Did you put the gaskets and spacers behind the metering plate?
R.
You're description of my carb is exactly correct. I'm sure I'm below 1600 ft. in Chicago, but I think stock jets are #70 and it's only got #72's, but "maybe". You're idea on the spacer/gasket with the metering plate is a good guess! When I pulled the carb apart I didn't have those and the rear float was stuck, but I've fixed those issues now.... still a little surge.
Maybe it is lean??? Mystery vacuum leak??? I checked the driver's side plugs recently and three looked clean/light tan and one was slightly sooty-black rich (not oil wet). I'll check the floats again.
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: RemCharger]
#1347385
12/07/12 10:24 PM
12/07/12 10:24 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 957 Chicago
PurpleBeeper
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Quote:
That should be a 4150. I always run 76+ for jets and 82-84 in the back if you get a metering block. make sure the power valve is not holding the metering block away from the main body. Check the airbleeds for restrictions too. Of course make sure you have no vacuum leaks.
Hmmmm...."maybe" even the #72 jets are too lean, huh? I think your car is MUCH faster than my lil' ole' street car... but "maybe".
Also, is it possible for the power valve to hold the metering block off the main body? Wouldn't it leak like a sieve there? I did run a bread tie wire in all the air bleeds and used good carb cleaner, but I'll clean them out again.
Last edited by PurpleBeeper; 12/07/12 10:26 PM.
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: PurpleBeeper]
#1347386
12/07/12 10:35 PM
12/07/12 10:35 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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Quote:
but at cruising speed it "surges" or "bucks".
Just thinking out loud but that almost sounds like an ign related miss rather than a more minor up/down "surge" misfire from too lean. I would check rotor phasing. Post how things go with this issue
Last edited by RapidRobert; 12/07/12 10:47 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: PurpleBeeper]
#1347388
12/08/12 11:39 PM
12/08/12 11:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,607 Western Washington
Sixgun
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top fuel
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Western Washington
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Rotor phasing: Take an old but usable dizzy cap,drill a decent sized hole between the coil terminal and the #1 tower (say 1/2" or 5/8")and paint a white stripe(paint pen/white out) on the rotor from the center contact (on the plastic part, not the metal) to the outer end that "throws" the spark.Install this cap in place or your "good" one.Set up your timing light as normal.Run the engine up until the timing stops advancing (mine is "all in" at 3K) and shoot the light at the hole you made in the cap.You should see your mark pretty close to dead center in the hole.This means the mag pickup/reluctor/points/crank trigger/telegraph what-have you is being triggered at the approximate correct time for the ignition spark generated to have the rotor in line with #1 spark plug terminal and fire that cylinder(as well as the rest)in a timely manner. If it's way off, the spark is having to jump forwards or backwards to fire that terminal, savvy? I won't go in to how to correct this, unless someone asks... Rapid, feel free to add in here if I missed anything. Bear
Last edited by Sixgun; 12/08/12 11:45 PM.
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: PurpleBeeper]
#1347389
12/08/12 11:44 PM
12/08/12 11:44 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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Perfectly normal question. You would drill a 1/2" hole in the top flat of the dist cap 2/3 of the way fron the center terminal to the #1 cap terminal (closer to the #1 terminal) and aim your timing light down in the hole which will "freeze" the rotor like a strobe light freezes people on a dance floor. Let it idle & check with vac advance connected and disconnected & we want the rotor to be near dead on with the cap terminal. If too far away it will miss especially under load & at WOT the vac adv will be near zero & rotor phasing will be where it's at when you pull/plug the dist vac hose. This hole you drill is productive even when done testing as it lets ionized air out of the cap which can promote crossfire but if it looks unsightly to you just use a junk cap to drill on & can also cut a rectangle out of a junk cap on the side to check the rotor tip distance to the cap terminal when not runing which is related to rotor phasing but is not the same but can also cause missing as both contribute to an air distance greater than the spark can jump. If the dist bushing/shaft radial play is minimal you can go as low as .010" on that distance and NAPA offers an Echlin Mopar rotor with a .060" longer tip MO3000 for $8 & change out the door. If the rotor phasing is way off the best solution is to redrill a new slot for the roll pin like Andy did way back with his machined reluctors. Holler with any news. EDIT Hey Bear we posted at (nearly) the same time. If Ida known you were going to I would have saved myself the effort
Last edited by RapidRobert; 12/08/12 11:46 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Holley Carb Rebuild Experts - NEED HELP!
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1347390
12/09/12 05:10 AM
12/09/12 05:10 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,607 Western Washington
Sixgun
top fuel
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top fuel
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Posts: 1,607
Western Washington
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No sweat RR, I honestly felt you could express this one a little better than I.With my DC cast iron tach drive, I carefully slotted the pickup mount holes, and re-phased the assembly thata way until I got the rotor where I wanted it. But RR, shouldn't the rotor be centered in the hole when the mech advance is all in?(This came from Dvorak years ago).Open to discuss, not arguing. regards, B
I'm 55 now, no time to waste. Not a week goes by that I don't hear about someone passing on.Let's get out there,smoke some tires,have a beer with a good friend,do what you have always wanted to do.I am pretty sure no one will ever say on their deathbed "gee I'm glad my life was calm and boring"
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