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Re: What single stage paint to use for a factory look? bee
[Re: 70440+6bbl]
#1346377
12/05/12 01:55 PM
12/05/12 01:55 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
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Quote:
Isn't your new Bee F6 Bright Green Metallic? If so, there is plenty of metallic in it (as the name implies) 
He said "it's a non metallic color" 
Anyways, I'd go epoxy, do the body/filler work, then use high building primer, block it, fix any flaws, then reprime, wetsand, paint. You could use thinned epoxy as a sealer before paint.
68 Road Runner, 69 Belvedere, 71 Challenger Vert
340 barracuda, 01 Ram CTD, 95 Ram, 04 Ram, 85 Daytona turbo Z
66 GTO, 06 Magnum RT AWD. 07 Ram CTD, 07 Ram
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Re: What single stage paint to use for a factory look? bee
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1346382
12/05/12 03:15 PM
12/05/12 03:15 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
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Quote:
If your looking for an OEM finish, Dupont Centari line is perhaps your best bet IMHO, if you want to step up the quality of the paint, then Dupont's Imron line is nice, however factory colors are limited due to the paint's chemical make-up, not because of a lack of mix code/formulas
If you decide to go Dupont, stick with the Dupont line..(avoid Nason)
mike
From what I have read here, it seems dupont is better for some colors and ppg for others. I would stick with the better quality lines also for doing an entire car.
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Re: What single stage paint to use for a factory look? bee
[Re: 79machocharger]
#1346383
12/05/12 08:07 PM
12/05/12 08:07 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,637
Florida
GMP440
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,637
Florida
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As another member stated about Imron paint. I agree it is good too. I painted my 68' Coronet with Dupont Imron. Imron will give you a very accurate factory look with the slight orange peel look.
Also, Imron is very impervious to acids. If you get brake fluid or battery acid on the paint, it will not bubble up.
Here is a pic of my Coronet painted with Imron paint. I painted the car 22 years ago. Notice the slight orange peel look that duplicates very well the factory look.
Last edited by GMP440; 12/05/12 08:19 PM.
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Re: What single stage paint to use for a factory look? bee
[Re: GMP440]
#1346384
12/05/12 08:22 PM
12/05/12 08:22 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,637
Florida
GMP440
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,637
Florida
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Re: What single stage paint to use for a factory look? bee
[Re: GMP440]
#1346385
12/06/12 09:04 AM
12/06/12 09:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,730
North Dakota
6PakBee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,730
North Dakota
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The only problem, if that is the correct term, with Imron is that you have to mortgage your house to buy a gallon of it. But as a paint, I love it. Probably one of the easiest paints to spray. I painted the supports for our deck with Imron and it still has gloss after 16 years in ND weather.
"We live in a time when intelligent people are being silenced so that stupid people won't be offended".
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Re: What single stage paint to use for a factory look? bee
[Re: wally426ci]
#1346388
12/07/12 11:53 AM
12/07/12 11:53 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
This kind of makes me wish I would have started with that paint rather than Base/Clear on my truck.....
Anyone know anything about going over base/clear with a product like this?
I wouldn't recommend puttin Imron over a prior finish, unless it has aged a few years, it's a very aggressive paint, chemically wise, it will "bite" into the lower substrates with amazing aggression chemically, and will wrinkle/lift up recently applied finished paint bases ..Imron is a very tough paint finish, it dosen't take kindly to wetsanding or buffing, or repairing by blending, you have to treat it like spraying a candy paint job, flawless overlap and gloss/orange peel control, it dosent take kindly to blemish repair like you could perform on a BC/CC or standard enamel single stage,...but if your a fairly skilled painter, you should have no issues,...if you decide to finish a vehicle in Imron, follow the MFG's recommended base prep and guidlines, don't use other MFG's as base prep or you'll be sorry...
mike
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Re: What single stage paint to use for a factory look?
[Re: 79machocharger]
#1346390
12/07/12 01:57 PM
12/07/12 01:57 PM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,179
Canada
demon
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,179
Canada
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Quote:
I think I've decided to go single stage for a factory look and color on my 69 bee. I've heard the single stage paint has more of a correct color look to it. Whats a good single stage paint to use? I've always used Nason paints and I'm pretty sure I'm ready to try somthing different. I'm also going to paint the underside with the dark grey primer that RestoRick sells and blow in the over spray. I plan on cutting the outside very little so to leave alittle orange peel factory look to it instead of taking it down like glass. It's a non metalic color. I've seen alot of people using PPG single stage paints. Any help would be great, thanks.
Also after it's blasted I think I'll DP90 the whole shell on the rotisserie and then do what ever body work it will need. Once I get it close I'll use some kind of PPG surfacer to fill in any little flaws and then sand smooth. After I get that all done I'll use and epoxy primer from PPG and then do the grey bottom side and blow in the over spray body color look. I'll then tape the bottom off and then seal the top of the car and paint the whole shell minus the hood, doors and trunklid. I'll make sure to paint the outside of those parts at the same time but off the car. I'll have the inside of those parts already painted and taped off. This is kind of my rough game plan any help on certain PPG paints to use would be great help as I havent used PPG paints very much. 
if you really want it to look factory correct, don't paint it in pieces. Do it all at once just like the factory did. When Chrysler built them new, the fenders, hood, doors, trunklid etc were all on, then the bare body was dipped in grey latex primer. The exterior was washed off, then red oxide epoxy primer was sprayed on, follwed by green grey epoxy primer. This was baked, wet sanded then the interior door color was sprayed on, that was masked off and the body was painted with enamel.
There wasn't much paint in the hidden areas.
You can duplicate this procedure by epoxy priming all your inners, inside of fenders etc before assembling the body, then doing your aligning, filling blocking etc. Then spray It in DP epoxy primer just like the factory did, wet sand and paint just like the factory did. I've used this method on my restos for many many years now and it looks accurate. In fact it is about as accurate as possible!
The reason for the red oxide followed by green grey was simple. The red oxide made it simple to see that the silvery colored bare metal was all covered. Then the green grey contrast showed that the red oxide was all covered, ensuring no bare spots. Then when wet sanding, if the person broke thru the green grey, the red oxide showed up and he knew to stop sanding.
I always like to think about the reasons why Chrysler used certain procedures. they had to be efficient. Painting car in pieces would waste valuable time, risk chips and poor alignment. Same goes for our Restorations.
By the way, a common misconception is that the paint stops rust but actually that's the epoxy primer's job. Paint is like icing on the cake. Having the inners all done in DP will seal it up longer than any of us will ever live. I like to use tinted DP on the underbody. It can be easliy created using DP epoxy primer since it's available in so many colors. You can match the grey underside "dip" primer, and the red oxide and green grey plus any variations such as the black used in California built cars and some A bodies. DP makes a fantastic sealer before paint and enamel sticks like crazy to it.
To me a Mopar painted with base/clear is not restored.
Last edited by demon; 12/07/12 02:19 PM.
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Re: What single stage paint to use for a factory look? bee
[Re: LimeliteAero]
#1346391
12/07/12 03:37 PM
12/07/12 03:37 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Something to chew on is Imron and Centari have been given the death sentence....so be ready to look for alternatives should you require additional paint down the road.
VOC compliance has limited the States that still sell Centari and Imron, I can still purchase Imron in Massachusetts, but Centari has to be purchased in NY, and shipped to me for use....the waterbourne paints are already reality for the west, and have been for a number of years, more states are slowly complying to EPA/VOC mandates, it's only a matter of time before all the "good stuff"is gone,...FYI, Waterbourne Auto paints suck...
Mike
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Re: What single stage paint to use for a factory look? bee
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1346392
12/10/12 12:05 AM
12/10/12 12:05 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,196
Harrisburg, Pa.
screamindriver
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,196
Harrisburg, Pa.
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Quote:
FYI, Waterbourne Auto paints suck...
Mike
And the paint/supply manufacturers are'nt making the transition an easy one for legit businesses...They're looking at it as a big money grab for them by making you buy not only the actual paint products but the whole supporting equipment to boot...From the smallest parts all the way to the actual paint booth if they have their way ... 
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Re: What single stage paint to use for a factory look? bee
[Re: 79machocharger]
#1346393
12/10/12 12:11 AM
12/10/12 12:11 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
Chris2581
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
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My neighbors 69 AMX was painted with Nason.He did a minor wet cut and buff and it looks like a factory job.
Nautilus Racing-
We use Superformance gaskets and Turbo Action converters/products.
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