Yes, by the specs measured at the fbo coil, I agree. Too much resistance through the supplied ballast maybe. I still have plenty of juice to ignite the fuel as the engine screams other than the mentioned wot bog. I also agree this seems to be some kind of fuel starvation somewhere inside the carb. It should not be flooding as it seems to clear up some after idling a minute. Or could it actually be lifter pump up that makes a valve or two not seating 100% as the bog disappears during shutdown? I do not know how this should feel. Also have in mind that idling (with less oil pressure) clears it up some. I can not get more than 11" of vacuum at 850 rpm idle. Vacuum is is not pulsating and power brakes work great. This is with a Lunati 60303 cam, .226/.234 @ 50, adv. dur. 268. I will have to double check that with a different vacuum gauge thou. And mayb monitoring the vacuum when running to see if it pulsates at first when going back to idle.

Update: I hooked up a timing light to check that I was at 18 degrees at idle, and I was. But the timing does not start to advance intil 2000 rpm. This can not be right, ok? I run a distributor recurved by FBO to 18 initial, 34 total, all in by 3000 rpm. The timing advances fast after starting at 2000 rpm.
Anyways, I bumped the initial to 20 and hooked up a digital tach to monitor exactly idle rpm. I then realized that my in-car tach reads a little high so my idle has been low. I let the idle stay where it ended after bumping the timing wich was 780 and got 12"hg - 1hg more than I had prior to advancing initial timing. With these settings the bog is completely gone (!) but I need to dig into the distributor. I think I need some guiding to work through the advancing curve. Shouldn't the distributor start to advance earlier? Duration at 50 is 226/234, advertised 268/276. All tests with the vacuum advance plugged. The vacuum advance says to be 10 degrees at 16"hg.

I'll be away for a few days but hopefully I get time to play with the distributor next weekend. thanks all for your help so far! I really appreciate your input!

Not sure if this is the right thread to ask but do you have any advice for a proper timing/advance figure for the 60303 cam? 68 Charger, 440/ported 915's, cr around 10:1, 5-speed, torker 2, 2" headers, 3" exhaust with x-pipe, 4.10 rear, mostly street driven.
I took apart the distributor and everything seems ok and moves smooth.
One dark/black spring and one silver. Mechanic advance doesn't start to come in until 2000rpm.

Yes it's always a good idea to keep it all in the same thread. I'd set the initial with the "vacuum gauge" method then with that figure in hand shorten the slots to get 36 total then go with a lighter spring combo that keeps you just under the pinging point at WOT up thru the gears on your hottest/driest (most likely to ping) day and which starts advancing a bit above your in gear idle RPM. Vac adv (if used) is capped to set initial and total if working with ported vac adv. If going with full manifold vacuum then it'd be plugged in to set the idle timing but not the total. If ported then after the initial/total/springs are set plug in vac adv (if used) and work with it in everyday part throttle operation around town staying just under the pinging point. A 3/32" allen wrench CCW slows the onset of its' curve

Ok. My distributor is set up with 16 degrees of mechanical advance. So initial 20 will be 36 total. All in at 3000rpm. Wich springs are avilable and what is their rating? T what rpm should I get the advance started? I want to check the advance curve again to verify that nothing was stuck in there prior to disasembling the distributor. I find it hard to believe that FBO set it up to not start advancing until 2000rpm.

Is this a newer type Mallory built MP dist that I think uses special (I've never owned one) springs? If it's a regular type (70's) dist MP has a light spring set as does Mr Gasket & on those (70's dists') keeping the stock light spring and tossing the heavy spring with the long loop on one end & subbing in (1) mr gasket or MP spring would be a good start. Want to stay just under the pinging point at WOT up thru the gears on your hottest/driest day and want the curve to start a bit above your in gear idle speed

Thanks RR! Really appreciate your input! Not sure who made my distributor. I purchased it from FBO 2006. So for a stick car that idles aroun 800rpm the advance curve could start around 900-1000rpm or so? and then tweak it to stay just under the pinging spot up to fully advanced?

Just my two cents... As simple as this sounds, take off the cap and see if there any I MEAN ANY play back and forth on the rotor. I have had my idle act weird only to find the tip of the distributor worn and a tiny bit of play causing timing changes but only "sometimes".
Lots of great people on this board!