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Denso alternator wiring #1300949
09/09/12 11:18 PM
09/09/12 11:18 PM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 898
iowa
copchaser Offline OP
super stock
copchaser  Offline OP
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 898
iowa
Guys I put a low mount alternator kit with a denso alternator on my 68 dart. How do i wire it? 68 dart, 543 stroker, new stock wiring harness, MSD ignition, trunk mount battery. The denso is a 3 wire unit, I got the adaptor plug, it has 3 pig tails. Thanks.

Re: Denso alternator wiring [Re: copchaser] #1300950
09/10/12 01:03 AM
09/10/12 01:03 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,001
Coram, NY
Pool Fixer Offline
master
Pool Fixer  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,001
Coram, NY
I'd start by using the instruction sheet that should have come with the denso..unless you sourced it used and don't have it for some other reason. All of the newer denso alts I've seen, including the one I put on my 68, have a main large stud for pos 12v and then spots for 2 more wires. those are for the field wires coming from voltage regulator. I say spots for those other 2 wires because depending on year, some have just 2 studs, others have a socket that you need a special plug for. accomplishes the same thing: connecting the 2 field wires to the alt.

This is all speculation based on assumption here. What model denso? do you have a pic of the back of it? There's more to it as far as upgrading wiring if the denso is high amp... also depends on whether you are keeping the wiring in the car stock 68 single field or later dual field....that changed in 69 or 70, I can't remember.

Re: Denso alternator wiring [Re: Pool Fixer] #1300951
09/10/12 12:17 PM
09/10/12 12:17 PM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 898
iowa
copchaser Offline OP
super stock
copchaser  Offline OP
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iowa
I bought the alternator and low mount kit from mancini. Not sure which model it is, it is a 60amp reman unit. No instruction sheet. There is 1 big stud terminal. It has a rececced plug which requires a plug in adaptor that has 3 pig tails, not 2. The wiring is stock replacement M&H harness. I have no issues with cutting the new harness, this is a street legal drag car. Thanks again.

Re: Denso alternator wiring [Re: copchaser] #1300952
09/10/12 02:37 PM
09/10/12 02:37 PM
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 64
Iowa
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GreenBird Offline
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GreenBird  Offline
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Iowa
I went through this a few months ago. There are some limited instructions on this web site for that pigtail connector.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/produ...mp;partid=27112

Also, if you call Mancini, I think they will email you a pdf of more complete instructions from AR Engineering. Also, the instructions are available directly from AR Engineering.

I don't have my reference materials with me, but as best I recall run the charging wire from the big stud on the alternator to the starter relay. You should use a fuse or fusible link. I think I used a 10 or 8 gauge wire with a 14 or 12 gauge fusible link.

Run the green wire from the pigtail to the place on the MH harness where the input to the voltage reg used to be. See the diagram.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BelvedereGTXSatelliteRoadRunnerB.JPG

The alternator has an internal regulator so you don't use a voltage regulator.

Run the blue wire from the pigtail to the starter relay. That I think is the sensing wire that tells the alternator how much juice to provide (and does away with the dim headlight issues).

Don't use the red wire on the pigtail.

Re: Denso alternator wiring [Re: GreenBird] #1300953
09/10/12 04:54 PM
09/10/12 04:54 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq Offline
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MoparMarq  Offline
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
Quote:

Don't use the red wire on the pigtail.




Although, if you want to get tricky, it can be used.

You can install a flashing LED indicator light in the dash (I put mine on the voltmeter) to indicate discharge. The ones from the auto parts store or Radio Shack have black bezels and the bulb is dark when unlit, so it's barely noticeable when not on.

Wiring is red wire off the alternator pigtail (in your particular case) to the negative lead of the LED. Positive lead of the LED goes to a switched source of 12V under the dash ("RUN" or "accessory"). LED is it's own diode, so current only flows when dash has power and alternator is not doing its job. Works well.
Got one for the oil pressure also (had dual sender, one terminal for gauge, one for switch to LED)







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