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Re: Which Street Carb. for 440 Stick Car?? [Re: moparpollack] #1298226
09/08/12 05:28 AM
09/08/12 05:28 AM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 277
Cincinnati, Ohio
C
chargincharles Offline
enthusiast
chargincharles  Offline
enthusiast
C

Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 277
Cincinnati, Ohio




Dwayne Porter did a carb test and the 750 edelbrock always put out he lowest hp rating. The edelbrock 750 just doesnt put out power like other carbs.




Ya know I've never had any luck with the Edelbrock carbs. The 'AFB' clone just doesn't seem to work right.
I've always just bought a eBay, Swap meet, junkyard, etc- AVS carb, rebuilt it with a Jiffy or Hygrade Kit and then went from there.
On smallblocks I look for a 340-spec AVS, for bigblocks I look for a 440 spec. They still can be found for relatively cheap and with a little effort, they perform WAAAAAAY better than the 'new' Edelbrocks.
I figure the factory spent hundreds of hours in the dyno rooms, and thousands of dollars to get the right set up with the right engine. If your engine is just mildly warmed up (which it sounds like it is) then it's hard to second guess all of that testing.

For reference on my current setup-
on a 318 with Magnum Heads, RV-spec cam (nothing too wild at all, just a decent milage/torque cam), Air-Gap intake is a 1970 340-spec AVS originally for a automatic car. Got it off of eBay for $75.00.
I did the 'paint-can' carb cleaner dip, got a rebuild kit from Mancini racing, and set up the needles/jets and springs for the 340 (Using e-berger reference materials published many, MANY times over). When I started tuning I had to step up the jets 1 size, kept the same rods, and then used a lighter spring. Moved the accellerator linkage to the bottom position- and good to go.
That was 5 years ago. I've had it apart once to clean it since, but other than that it's been pretty much maintenance free.
This is on a big, heavy 1982 Chrysler New Yorker that I put 8-10,000 miles a year on in the summers.
One hint- avoid the plastic accellerator pumps they put in the Edelbrock rebuild kits. The Mancini kit used the proper metal pump with the leather seal.
Also-The edelbrock tuning kits are really a dead knock-off of the old Zip Kits that Carter used to sell. So finding rods, jets and springs is super easy. The squirters though you'll have to work from what you have and be confident enough to drill and/or fill and drill again to get it right. In my case, the 340 carb had the right size squirter to begin with, so no need to modify it- just the timing/amount of the squirt (by adjusting the linkage rod itself/moving the hole the linkage is in). Super easy there as well.

Finally- someone mentioned the TQ. I'd say excellent choice except I always found that it's hard to get parts for a TQ (other than the rebuild kits). Great Carb though. Once set up a big TQ would more than handle that 440. And there IS something about the sound a TQ makes when those big secondaries come online. Nothing else quite like that sound.

Good Luck with it.
CC.

Re: Which Street Carb. for 440 Stick Car?? [Re: chargincharles] #1298227
09/08/12 03:08 PM
09/08/12 03:08 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,142
Central NC
gch Offline
master
gch  Offline
master

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,142
Central NC
I believe he has a squarebore intake so I would say a 750 Holley vacuum secondary.If you want to get a fancier model from one of the carb shops with screw in air bleeds,secondary metering block,milled(or contoured)choke horn,and already setup and adjusted you may save some hassle and not have to upgrade later for mild mods to the motor.
Jesse at Biggs did an 850 DP for me and I barely had to adjust the thing.

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