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rear wheel cylinder question #1294022
08/29/12 11:49 PM
08/29/12 11:49 PM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 369
middleburg,fl
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barryv Offline OP
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barryv  Offline OP
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middleburg,fl
does anyone have any feedback concerning the problem solver rear wheel cylinders that are being sold on e bay. are there really any differences compared to the over the counter wheel cylinders being sold. my brake pedal is spongy and have tried everything. it is disc front drum rear on a 1970 road runner,thanks

Re: rear wheel cylinder question [Re: barryv] #1294023
08/30/12 09:23 AM
08/30/12 09:23 AM
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U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
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JohnRR  Offline
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The problem solver is a smaller bore cylinder, what you can buy over the counter for your application will be a larger bore.

I installed them in a 67 barracuda that was converted to stock discs up front and installed an adjustable valve in the rear line, they work very well no premature rear wheel lockup. I'm going to be putting a set in my 69 Dart with drums all around , on a panic ctop the rears lock and the back end swings around .

Spongy brakes , sounds like you have air in the lines .

Re: rear wheel cylinder question [Re: JohnRR] #1294024
08/30/12 11:13 PM
08/30/12 11:13 PM
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middleburg,fl
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barryv Offline OP
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it seems like i get all the air out, then a month or 2 later i re bleed the brakes and find more air.thanks

Re: rear wheel cylinder question [Re: barryv] #1294025
08/30/12 11:19 PM
08/30/12 11:19 PM
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rth Offline
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I had a similiar problem with the frt disc brakes on my 70 coronet. b/fluid would seep out past threads on bleeder screws. tried two new sets,same. spongy pedal. finally used bleeders screws with check valve for one man bleeding, that sealed it.

Re: rear wheel cylinder question [Re: barryv] #1294026
08/31/12 11:04 AM
08/31/12 11:04 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

then a month or 2 later i re bleed the brakes and find more air.


I remember your thread. Which half is the air showing up in? I'd cap the M/C with brass inverted flare fittings from the "Edelman" cabinet at your parts house & see if the M/C is rock hard with virtually no travel then uncap one side/hook it up & get it tight then the other side. make SURE all the air is out & if it's the rear I'd just replace the wheel cyls' (with some smaller ones if needed for proportioning). I'm wondering if a M/C can draw in air past the seals but I wouldn't think so. I have a helper pump the pedal fast several times to agitate the fluid then timed just right open the bleeder on the next down stroke to get more air out.


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