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I welded some pieces of 1x2 steel together and ground off the corners and then tapered it to form the ends of the tubes. I just use a torch to heat and form them, although pressing them like Mike does sounds a bit faster!

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LOL... when I was in the lab I could do all 8 in
less than 2 minutes... made it super easy... thats
why I suggest going with the 1" fine thread on the
end of the sizing tool... you can get a exhaust shop
to do it for $5 or they might do it for free

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lol threading that 1"fine thread sounds exhausting, i would prefer getting a Huth quickchange fitting instead that way it just slips right into the quickchange slot



































it´s an option but not all that important was just joking a bit since i´m a litle lazy and have been working abit to much with threaded parts today at work on a huthbender using the thread is slightly better compared to the quickchange in reality,since its more stable.

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I just had a set of headers built for my roadster last week. I used these flanges http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/31835/10002/-1 from Jegs and the 1 7/8th underchassis header kit. They turned out extremely nice but the guy had 40 hours of labor in building them.

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Under chassis headers range between 30 to 40 hours
(at least for me)

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Aside from Mr. Peabody's method, what other approach can be used to get the pipe formed to match the port shape in the flanges? To make it even tougher, the small blocks have some odd shaped exhaust ports.

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Using a steel rod and a hammer... lay the rod into
the tube and hit the rod NEAR the tubing(holding
the other end of the rod)

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Aside from Mr. Peabody's method, what other approach can be used to get the pipe formed to match the port shape in the flanges? To make it even tougher, the small blocks have some odd shaped exhaust ports.

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Using a steel rod and a hammer... lay the rod into
the tube and hit the rod NEAR the tubing(holding
the other end of the rod)

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Aside from Mr. Peabody's method, what other approach can be used to get the pipe formed to match the port shape in the flanges? To make it even tougher, the small blocks have some odd shaped exhaust ports.

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Using a steel rod and a hammer... lay the rod into
the tube and hit the rod NEAR the tubing(holding
the other end of the rod)

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What diameter do you suggest for the steel rod?

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What ever the smallest radius is... on the SB about
3/4" rod would be close

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i saw a vid. on youtube that showed you have to make the headers from nothing but a bunch of piping..they put the flange in a vise and bent the pipe enough to go inside the flange then hammered it out to each side ..as it was done you would tack that side if i remember ..will see if i can find it for you..mike

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I've done them both ways... put the tube inside and
on the outside of the flange.... didnt make one bit
of difference... if you can get between the tubes
to weld but if you cant then its easier to put them
inside and yes if you put the inside and NOT shaped
yet, you work 1 side at a time and tack as you go...
I always tacked the straightest side first then worked
the other sides(you pretty much have to tack 1 side
first... or your spinnin your wheels)
EDIT
I will assume you already know in you go inside you
have to open the flange hole 1 material thickness
PER wall