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Performance Only is building a mild stroker 318 (390 cid) for my Jeep Wrangler project. It has magnum heads with stock ports. Since this is my first crack at building headers from scratch, I'd like make it as simple as possible. I have a chop saw and a MIG welder, and no tubing bender. To simply the build, would you suggest buying flanges with primary stubs welded on? Who do you recommend online that has header parts at reasonable prices? Any advice is appreciated.

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Schoenfeld has some good header flanges.

http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/

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This is a set I built for MY Performance Only stroker. I'm happy the way they turned out. I reused the flanges from my rusted out Headmans. These were a kit from Jegs($110). They were for designed for open wheel racing but I have plenty of room. Don't know if they would work in your case. The other thing I like is that they are 16 gauge so should last a little longer.

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Thanks to all that gave advice!
To get me started, I'm going to buy 3/8" thick flanges, and buy the Summit SBC long tube header kit. I'm going with 1-3/4" primaries and 3" collectors.

What is the method typically used for shaping the end of the tubing, in order to mate them to the ports in the flanges? Seems like it would be a real bee-otch to form them to match the odd shaped port windows. Makes me consider getting the flanges with the stubs.

Mr. Peabody
I normally use .025 wire. You recommended .023. Will the .002 difference really matter in the quality of the weld? I'm going to practice and employ that technique you mentioned.

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I made my own flanges. I made patterns, had them cut, formed the first piece I needed of each tube- then formed the shape transition from the flange out of that leading piece of tube.

One tip I can give- make sure you cut you curves at 90 degrees to the bend, if you know what I mean. Don't try to cheat as the exhaust flow WILL suffer from odd pipe joinery.
16 ga tube can be cut/trimmed with avaiation snips.
Consider a "spike collector" instead of a diamond welded in between the primary tubes inside the collector.
Use a decent length collector!
Measure measure measure! Make sure the pipe route is what you want while trying to achieve equal length primaries.



I like making headers.

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I welded some pieces of 1x2 steel together and ground off the corners and then tapered it to form the ends of the tubes. I just use a torch to heat and form them, although pressing them like Mike does sounds a bit faster!

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LOL... when I was in the lab I could do all 8 in
less than 2 minutes... made it super easy... thats
why I suggest going with the 1" fine thread on the
end of the sizing tool... you can get a exhaust shop
to do it for $5 or they might do it for free

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I welded some pieces of 1x2 steel together and ground off the corners and then tapered it to form the ends of the tubes. I just use a torch to heat and form them, although pressing them like Mike does sounds a bit faster!

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LOL... when I was in the lab I could do all 8 in
less than 2 minutes... made it super easy... thats
why I suggest going with the 1" fine thread on the
end of the sizing tool... you can get a exhaust shop
to do it for $5 or they might do it for free

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lol threading that 1"fine thread sounds exhausting, i would prefer getting a Huth quickchange fitting instead that way it just slips right into the quickchange slot



































it´s an option but not all that important was just joking a bit since i´m a litle lazy and have been working abit to much with threaded parts today at work on a huthbender using the thread is slightly better compared to the quickchange in reality,since its more stable.

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I just had a set of headers built for my roadster last week. I used these flanges http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/31835/10002/-1 from Jegs and the 1 7/8th underchassis header kit. They turned out extremely nice but the guy had 40 hours of labor in building them.

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Under chassis headers range between 30 to 40 hours
(at least for me)

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Aside from Mr. Peabody's method, what other approach can be used to get the pipe formed to match the port shape in the flanges? To make it even tougher, the small blocks have some odd shaped exhaust ports.

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Using a steel rod and a hammer... lay the rod into
the tube and hit the rod NEAR the tubing(holding
the other end of the rod)

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Aside from Mr. Peabody's method, what other approach can be used to get the pipe formed to match the port shape in the flanges? To make it even tougher, the small blocks have some odd shaped exhaust ports.

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Using a steel rod and a hammer... lay the rod into
the tube and hit the rod NEAR the tubing(holding
the other end of the rod)

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Aside from Mr. Peabody's method, what other approach can be used to get the pipe formed to match the port shape in the flanges? To make it even tougher, the small blocks have some odd shaped exhaust ports.

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Using a steel rod and a hammer... lay the rod into
the tube and hit the rod NEAR the tubing(holding
the other end of the rod)

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What diameter do you suggest for the steel rod?

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What ever the smallest radius is... on the SB about
3/4" rod would be close

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i saw a vid. on youtube that showed you have to make the headers from nothing but a bunch of piping..they put the flange in a vise and bent the pipe enough to go inside the flange then hammered it out to each side ..as it was done you would tack that side if i remember ..will see if i can find it for you..mike

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I've done them both ways... put the tube inside and
on the outside of the flange.... didnt make one bit
of difference... if you can get between the tubes
to weld but if you cant then its easier to put them
inside and yes if you put the inside and NOT shaped
yet, you work 1 side at a time and tack as you go...
I always tacked the straightest side first then worked
the other sides(you pretty much have to tack 1 side
first... or your spinnin your wheels)
EDIT
I will assume you already know in you go inside you
have to open the flange hole 1 material thickness
PER wall