Building my first set of headers, got some ???
#1293656
08/29/12 01:29 PM
08/29/12 01:29 PM
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845 Tampa
DusterDave
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Performance Only is building a mild stroker 318 (390 cid) for my Jeep Wrangler project. It has magnum heads with stock shaped ports. Since this is my first crack at building headers from scratch, I'd like make it as simple as possible. I have a chop saw and a MIG welder, and no tubing bender. To simply the build, would you suggest buying flanges with primary stubs welded on? Who do you recommend online that has header parts at reasonable prices? Any advice is appreciated.
Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
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Re: Building my first set of headers, got some ???
[Re: DusterDave]
#1293658
08/29/12 01:39 PM
08/29/12 01:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,697 Renton Wa
topfueldart
master
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master
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Renton Wa
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Hooker and or Hedman make them, those are the only ones I'm aware of, and I didn't want to use them cuz they were 5/16 flange IIRC. The other thing to consider is your clearance with the minimum radius tubing once tacked to the stub. They would definitely make the project a good bit easier though, forming to the flanges was the worst part of my turbo kit. If you use a torch it is much easier though.
11.48 @ 120 with a 1.80 60' 318, stock 1.88 heads, stock 904, Pump Gas, 13 lbs of boost.
9.94 @ 134, 318 on pump gas, 14 lbs w/ Eddies, transbrake 727, 3600 lbs, 3.54 gear and 28's.
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Re: Building my first set of headers, got some ???
[Re: DusterDave]
#1293660
08/29/12 02:07 PM
08/29/12 02:07 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
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The 2 center tubes are just far enough apart to get your mig in there.... try to get a 3/8" flange... when you start welding the tubes use a stick weld process(run the machine hotter and short hits... it ends up looking like a tig weld) practice first EDIT also use .023 wire (it'll burn hotter and quicker)
Last edited by MR_P_BODY; 08/29/12 02:19 PM.
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Re: Building my first set of headers, got some ???
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1293662
08/29/12 02:28 PM
08/29/12 02:28 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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This is a set I built for MY Performance Only stroker. I'm happy the way they turned out. I reused the flanges from my rusted out Headmans. These were a kit from Jegs($110). They were for designed for open wheel racing but I have plenty of room. Don't know if they would work in your case. The other thing I like is that they are 16 gauge so should last a little longer.
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Re: Building my first set of headers, got some ???
[Re: DusterDave]
#1293665
08/29/12 06:27 PM
08/29/12 06:27 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,267 North, Alabama
D-50
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pro stock
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I just built a set for my 340 in my D-50, the first set I have ever built. I bought 3/8" flanges from TTI and bought a weld up kit for a small block Chevy that came with no flanges from Summit. They were 16 gauge thick and 1 7/8". I just cut the tubes up to get the bends that I liked. The kit from Summit is only like $110.00.
1.33 60 ft,6.21 at 110.59 in the 1/8, pump gas small block,2950lbs,drag radials,mufflers and driven to track ...
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Re: Building my first set of headers, got some ???
[Re: Performance Only]
#1293667
08/30/12 07:43 PM
08/30/12 07:43 PM
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845 Tampa
DusterDave
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Thanks to all that gave advice! To get me started, I'm going to buy 3/8" thick flanges, and buy the Summit SBC long tube header kit. I'm going with 1-3/4" primaries and 3" collectors. What is the method typically used for shaping the end of the tubing, in order to mate them to the ports in the flanges? Seems like it would be a real bee-otch to form them to match the odd shaped port windows. Makes me consider getting the flanges with the stubs. Mr. PeabodyI normally use .025 wire. You recommended .023. Will the .002 difference really matter in the quality of the weld? I'm going to practice and employ that technique you mentioned.
Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
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Re: Building my first set of headers, got some ???
[Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY]
#1293671
08/30/12 10:07 PM
08/30/12 10:07 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
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Romeo MI
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I made my own flanges. I made patterns, had them cut, formed the first piece I needed of each tube- then formed the shape transition from the flange out of that leading piece of tube. One tip I can give- make sure you cut you curves at 90 degrees to the bend, if you know what I mean. Don't try to cheat as the exhaust flow WILL suffer from odd pipe joinery. 16 ga tube can be cut/trimmed with avaiation snips. Consider a "spike collector" instead of a diamond welded in between the primary tubes inside the collector. Use a decent length collector! Measure measure measure! Make sure the pipe route is what you want while trying to achieve equal length primaries. I like making headers.
I always make up a tool the shape of the port(out of steel)with a tapper on it and weld a 1" fine stud to it and have a exhaust shop press it into stub pipes (most any shop that makes exhaust will have a Huth bender which uses 1" fine on the ram)... I mill my own flanges also.... if by chance I'm going into my old lab I just make the subs there on the tubing bender
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Re: Building my first set of headers, got some ???
[Re: CrAzYMoPaRGuY]
#1293673
08/30/12 11:16 PM
08/30/12 11:16 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
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Yeah all the BB ports are pretty much square... my transitions are usually about 1" to 1 1/2" using a formed tool and pressing it... dont want to erratic of a transition
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Re: Building my first set of headers, got some ???
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1293674
08/31/12 07:47 AM
08/31/12 07:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,011 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
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I Live Here
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I welded some pieces of 1x2 steel together and ground off the corners and then tapered it to form the ends of the tubes. I just use a torch to heat and form them, although pressing them like Mike does sounds a bit faster!
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: Building my first set of headers, got some ???
[Re: gregsdart]
#1293675
08/31/12 09:38 AM
08/31/12 09:38 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
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Quote:
I welded some pieces of 1x2 steel together and ground off the corners and then tapered it to form the ends of the tubes. I just use a torch to heat and form them, although pressing them like Mike does sounds a bit faster!
LOL... when I was in the lab I could do all 8 in less than 2 minutes... made it super easy... thats why I suggest going with the 1" fine thread on the end of the sizing tool... you can get a exhaust shop to do it for $5 or they might do it for free
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