When Should The Distributor Be Locked Out?
#1285272
08/14/12 01:21 PM
08/14/12 01:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 587
IL . usa
cjs69mope
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 587
IL . usa
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Trying to find the best tune for my Motor
493 stroker with 250/260 @.020 and 630 int and ex lift solid roller .
When is it recommended to lock out the advance , Eng seems to like a lot of advance , currant set up is initial timing @ 24 and 10 to 12 deg mechanical all in by 2000 rpm. This is a 4 speed heavy b-body car.
Wondering if i should just do away with the mechanical advance and just set it to 34 or 36 deg locked down?
What advantage or disadvantage would this cause?
Thank you in advance for all advice
Cj.
1969 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Superbee
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Re: When Should The Distributor Be Locked Out?
[Re: cjs69mope]
#1285273
08/14/12 01:56 PM
08/14/12 01:56 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,825
Sk. Canada
RemCharger
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,825
Sk. Canada
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Looks like you have a streetish cam, probably no need for you, from my exp. anyway. My 12.5 383 with 275@.050 needs lots just to run, but I still eneded up putting 6* back into the dist. locked out can be hard on pistons/pins/bearings, esp on street gas. 
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Re: When Should The Distributor Be Locked Out?
[Re: RemCharger]
#1285274
08/14/12 01:59 PM
08/14/12 01:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,266
Renton Washington
Triple Threat
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,266
Renton Washington
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My 390" small block 263/268 @.050 cam
I have 16* cranking, 25* at idle, 34* all in by 2500.
-Dustin
67 Dart, 9 second, 392" G3 Hemi
68 Barracuda 340 F/SA
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Re: When Should The Distributor Be Locked Out?
[Re: cjs69mope]
#1285275
08/14/12 02:46 PM
08/14/12 02:46 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,317
State of confusion
Thumperdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,317
State of confusion
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My 12.1 comp. 470 is locked out at 34 degrees and have no issues but, I run two bad-ass gel batteries which seems to help..........
72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
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Re: When Should The Distributor Be Locked Out?
[Re: cjs69mope]
#1285281
08/14/12 03:45 PM
08/14/12 03:45 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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If you get to a point where your only at about 5* in the advance then go ahead and lock it out... but a good curve is better IF you need it but it has to be tuned in for your set up 
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Re: When Should The Distributor Be Locked Out?
[Re: RemCharger]
#1285284
08/17/12 12:27 AM
08/17/12 12:27 AM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,414
Toronto
mshred
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,414
Toronto
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Quote:
Looks like you have a streetish cam, probably no need for you, from my exp. anyway.
My 12.5 383 with [Email]275@.050[/Email] needs lots just to run, but I still eneded up putting 6* back into the dist. locked out can be hard on pistons/pins/bearings, esp on street gas.
When you say that locking out is hard on bottom end parts, is that upon initial start up only? or at lower rpm's as well? Lower octane compounds these problems?
My cam is 240/248 at .050". Used to have the MP electric dizzy, swapped in a lean burn one locked out to 36 total. I have a Mallory hyfire 685 box, and I have all ten degrees of programmable start retard on currently, and the car starts fine. Two things that changed though was the car idles smoother (not sure the science of this) and it seems at lower rpms at part throttle acceleration that the car sometimes has a very slight surge.
My main reason for locking it out was for when i run the nitrous
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