Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 9 of 36 1 2 7 8 9 10 11 35 36
Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267399
10/13/12 03:55 AM
10/13/12 03:55 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,779
Mt.Gilead, Ohio
OhioMopar Offline
master
OhioMopar  Offline
master

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,779
Mt.Gilead, Ohio
Quote:

Quote:

You're getting a lot farther on yours than I am on mine. I stop by the storage unit and start it, sometimes even drive it out of the unit. Had a guy come and look at it and drove it down the road. Seems like the master cylinder just dried out the rear seal and emptied its contents. The part that has fluid seems to work fine. Lol.
Once I get me moved tomorrow, and get a friends Durango straightened out, I will get back to work on it. Or sell it and buy a California Bee...




Nah, I've hardly done anything to the car. So far I've only fixed what's broke. This will probably be the most work and biggest fix on the car. Hopefully we'll be able to fix it so I can take it to the Fall Fling. It seems his Demon is up and running again too. I'll have to ask him if it's driveable enough to make it to the Fling as well.



Like I said, you are getting more done than I am! I'm not even fixing what is broke!
I'll get to it. Eventually. My former neighbor got his '69 340/4-speed Cuda ragtop back on the road recently. He dropped his driveshaft the other day and after he gets it put back in, he wants me to bring the Dart to the track and see what both of them will run. He thinks his best time was a 14.18. Not sure what gear he ran at that time, but when I let him it was a 3.55. '72 340 with TRW's, .484 purple shaft. Nothing exotic. I saw it run a 14.52, I think.
Anyway. Hope to get it stopping to take it in the next couple weeks. Would make my winter nicer looking at a car that dipped into the 12's every time I visit the storage unit!


1969 Dart GTS 340
1969 Super Bee X9 N-96
1969 Coronet R/T X9 N-96
2015 Dodge Dart GT
2019 Ram 2500 Big Horn.
Looking for the original block for my Bee. The last 4 are 7449
Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: OhioMopar] #1267400
10/13/12 04:08 AM
10/13/12 04:08 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Yeah, I'd like to take it to the track and run an 1/8 a mile run or two at Irwindale Speedway with the stock setup for fun. I figured I'd run 16's or 17's. That would just be a basis and I could hit the track to see how drastically it improves with each upgrade. But upgrades don't happen too often so idk. Plus, I'm more of a corner carver guy.

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267401
10/14/12 01:33 AM
10/14/12 01:33 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
My friend came over today to try and help me fix the brake issues. Trying to take a step forward today on the project ended up taking us 2-3 steps back. The power brake issue is just a cobbled up mess. The booster itself is some sort of GM or aftermarket booster and to fit it on they cut off the studs then trimmed up a big hole in the firewall. So next step is to fix all that to as close to factory as possible and then convert it to manual brakes. Idk if I'm still going to use my 1980 Dodge Aspen MC (Bore ~1.03). I think I'm only going to use it if there's some sort of adapter plate and push rod I can buy. We can fab up a panel and weld it in there, we just want to make sure we do it right and so that my foot doesn't go through the firewall in emergency situations.






Well, after all that, we decided we might as well and replace the wheel cylinders. Well we started with the Driver's side and after I removed the wheel cylinder I realized it obviously wasn't a stock one (or one that belonged on the car for that matter). The bolts looked nothing like the passenger side which we know to be correct. So we left it at that since I don't have extra bolts lying around.




As you can see in the pictures I have air shocks in the rear with no air in them. The entire rear system is worn out. Their are some signs of tire rub on the rear wheel well. That's probably why the rear tires are different from the fronts. Too much sag.

Then we went to working on the windows. And man, that was even more of a pain in the butt from when I fixed it last time. In examining that we found the rubber stopper isn't missing, the clear film is torn up and gunked up in the rails, the sliders aren't even completely on the rails, and the rails aren't even straight. To sum it all up, the windows are very angry! We were able to put it back on the regulator and roll it up a bit but after my uncle realigned the door, the window doesn't fit as it should and now there's a gaping crack since the window is crooked or whatever.

The underside of the engine bay is very very scary. So much grease has accumulated over the past 45 years it is absolutely terrifying. It's all black. That's all going to need to be cleaned with some engine degreaser or some sort of pressure washer.

Looking through the car, it just gets scarier and scarier. We noticed some signs of bondo today. You could see it sanded down a little on the lip of the wheel well. That's probably why there's bubbles in the paint. From the el cheapo $500 paint job on the car. However, we're still diggin' the metallic white paint job so we can leave it at that.

At least we know what we're dealing with now. Next time we'll work on the car will be after midterms (3-4 weeks) or after finals (6-7 weeks). I will not be going to Fall Fling in the Dart but I still want to go and take pictures of cars as well as possibly snagging some goodies from the swap meet.

Even though we were a little bumbed and the car is in a worse condition that before the MC broke loose, we still had a fun time working on the car and cracking jokes about how cobbled together this car is. On our way to get parts we passed by the Downtown Covina annual car show (I didn't even know it was today). So we stopped by and snagged some pictures I'll post in the General Section. Definitely a lot more mopars than usual. It was the most he's seen in one spot at one time.

AGAIN, SORRY FOR CRAPPY CELL PHONE PICS...

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267402
10/14/12 03:01 PM
10/14/12 03:01 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,779
Mt.Gilead, Ohio
OhioMopar Offline
master
OhioMopar  Offline
master

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,779
Mt.Gilead, Ohio
There is generally always more wrong than originally thought. At least you still have the desire and ambition to keep plugging away.
My suggestion is still the same as it had been. Fix the brakes, so you can still drive and drive it. Then slowly work on the rest of the stuff. Safety items first. Brakes/steering/suspension.
Might want to talk to Rhinodart. He may have a parts car to cut the piece you need out of.
Mancini racing has a lighweight master with a small bore(I think) that I will be putting on my GTS. Idk if a-bodies have it, but b-bodies have a plate on the firewall for support.
Keep working!


1969 Dart GTS 340
1969 Super Bee X9 N-96
1969 Coronet R/T X9 N-96
2015 Dodge Dart GT
2019 Ram 2500 Big Horn.
Looking for the original block for my Bee. The last 4 are 7449
Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: OhioMopar] #1267403
10/14/12 04:28 PM
10/14/12 04:28 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Quote:

There is generally always more wrong than originally thought. At least you still have the desire and ambition to keep plugging away.
My suggestion is still the same as it had been. Fix the brakes, so you can still drive and drive it. Then slowly work on the rest of the stuff. Safety items first. Brakes/steering/suspension.
Might want to talk to Rhinodart. He may have a parts car to cut the piece you need out of.
Mancini racing has a lighweight master with a small bore(I think) that I will be putting on my GTS. Idk if a-bodies have it, but b-bodies have a plate on the firewall for support.
Keep working!




That's the plan, just get the brakes working okilly dokilly so that I could cruise around in it some. Then probably fix the steering column couple, and then update the suspension some (probably will get some Blistein RCD's before the New Year and who knows what goodies at Fall Fling).

With regards to the hole, someone on my Q&A question replied saying DrDiff has the replacement panel and studs along with the adapter to hook up my 1980 Dodge Aspen MC to my firewall, so I may go that route. I'm not sure if I want to stick with my master cylinder or not. I'm not sure if a 1.03" bore is good for manual brakes or not. Lots of people are saying that they haven't seen the firewall support in a-bodies and the only reason why I wondered was because my friend said he had one in his Demon.

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267404
10/15/12 06:54 PM
10/15/12 06:54 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,779
Mt.Gilead, Ohio
OhioMopar Offline
master
OhioMopar  Offline
master

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,779
Mt.Gilead, Ohio
I remember the support on my B-bodies, but I really haven't messed with a-bodies enough to remember. I would imagine they have the same type of support so you don't warp the firewall. Especially with manual brakes.
I would go look at my Dart, but I can't get close to the front of it right now, did a final push to get moved this weekend and the back of the storage unit is packed full of 'stuff'. Time to reorganize...


1969 Dart GTS 340
1969 Super Bee X9 N-96
1969 Coronet R/T X9 N-96
2015 Dodge Dart GT
2019 Ram 2500 Big Horn.
Looking for the original block for my Bee. The last 4 are 7449
Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267405
10/28/12 12:45 AM
10/28/12 12:45 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
I actually got to do some work on the Dart this afternoon. I got a lot of little stuff done and I feel, combined, comes out to be equal to a big stuff.

So I was going to start off my afternoon pulling out the steering column, but as I flipped through the service manual I couldn't find any info. Not only that, but I kinda sorta forgot I don't have a grinder to cut the welds off the previous shaft.

So I thought I'd do a maintenance day today. Out I go to Pepboys and Walmart to pick up a couple parts, tools, and fluids. I come home and start with the air filter. I bought one when I was out figuring I'd need one (without even looking at it beforehand) and what do you know?



While I was at it I decided to take the air filter carrier device and wipe off all the dirt off the top with some Clorox wipes. So out with the old and in with the new (minus the cover).



Next I decided to go to the rear of the car and work with the trunk a little. With my brand new wire brush, I just started brushing away trying to chip off all the larger chunks. Unfortunately, I didn't spot any of that Castrol rust remover stuff mentioned earlier in the thread.

Here's a before shot (when I first bought the car):


And an after shot:


It's not much better, but it's at least something. I also found out I have some small holes from the rust in the trunk. O well, at least it's not that bad...


Next I went back to the front of the car to work on the electricals a little. Idk if you guys remember but my previous battery tie down was a simple worn out bungee chord with a wood block underneath the battery to try to keep the chord in tension. Over time at constant tension bungee chords like to loosen up a bit. So that's got to go. At pep boys I got a cheap universal battery hold-down. I also got some new battery connector mabbobers since the ones on my car were rusty, cracked, and had some sort of sulfur build up on them. So, out comes everything. I took the tray out even and wire brushed it a little and put it back in. Still a little rusty but it's nothing I'd be worried about. As for the universal hold-down, the studs were too long (obviously) and the strap wasn't long enough width wise (luckily the rubber stretched, sorta). Well to cut the studs, you need some sort of sharp object. I took out my saw and it's as dull as ever. Took out my bandsaw, and it was angry and didn't like it. So I clamped the stud down and filed each one to the proper length for 30 minutes each. I finally got it to fit and for less than $5 I guess I'm happy with it. The Battery is tight and not moving anywhere. Here's a picture with everything connected (currently disconnected, almost shocked myself a couple times because I thought the negative side was disconnected when it wasn't).



Well, since I just went through the effort of getting the battery situated, I figured, "why not go through the entire line?" So I took some 60 grit sand paper out of the cupboard and sanded down all my grounds. I think I got them all but I'm not sure. The headlights and dash lights look brighter (which could all be in my head) but we'll see if I still have my dimming lights problem when I get the car running and on all 4 again.

As I had my battery stuff out. I also decided it was time to change out my power steering return hose. When my friend came over last time he noticed it was hard, cracked, and leaking. I guess he found one of my mystery leaks. So I picked up some hose and new clamps at the store and installed them on there.

Lastly, I figured I could probably do at least one more thing, I decided to check out my passenger seat and why it won't scoot back when the lever was pulled. Initially I picked up my WD40 since I thought the tracks may have been a little rusty or it just needed some lubricating. The first thing I did was look underneath the seat and I see this one doo hickey clip thinger mabbober connected to two springs lying on the ground and not connected to the hookey thingy. Well, in my mind I thought the two would go lovely together so I hooked her on, sat on the seat, PULL THE LEVER! (Emperor's New Groove Movie Quote ), and wallah! My passenger seat works again!

I also picked up some engine degreaser so I can start cleaning up the scariness underneath the front end.

I'm still figuring out steering column and brake stuff. I've been doing some research and asking around for info. I also need some new bolts for my wheel cylinders in the back (I believe they're 3/8"?). I know I sound like a noob, but where can I get some SAE grade hardware?

So that was my day. I feel accomplished. Now it's time to relax for the rest of the night.

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267406
10/28/12 10:33 AM
10/28/12 10:33 AM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,005
Reno, Nevada
NV69B7RR Offline
master
NV69B7RR  Offline
master

Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,005
Reno, Nevada
Way to go Mu! Glad to see you plugging away at the Dart, keep it up!

IF you're going to degrease it all do yourself a favor and go do it a local spray & wash. Just don't hose down the ditributor cap in the process, DAMHIK.

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267407
10/28/12 10:52 AM
10/28/12 10:52 AM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,323
Virginia's Eastern Shore
D
dmoore Offline
pro stock
dmoore  Offline
pro stock
D

Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,323
Virginia's Eastern Shore
Quote:

My friend came over today to try and help me fix the brake issues. Trying to take a step forward today on the project ended up taking us 2-3 steps back. The power brake issue is just a cobbled up mess. The booster itself is some sort of GM or aftermarket booster and to fit it on they cut off the studs then trimmed up a big hole in the firewall. So next step is to fix all that to as close to factory as possible and then convert it to manual brakes. Idk if I'm still going to use my 1980 Dodge Aspen MC (Bore ~1.03). I think I'm only going to use it if there's some sort of adapter plate and push rod I can buy. We can fab up a panel and weld it in there, we just want to make sure we do it right and so that my foot doesn't go through the firewall in emergency situations.






Well, after all that, we decided we might as well and replace the wheel cylinders. Well we started with the Driver's side and after I removed the wheel cylinder I realized it obviously wasn't a stock one (or one that belonged on the car for that matter). The bolts looked nothing like the passenger side which we know to be correct. So we left it at that since I don't have extra bolts lying around.




As you can see in the pictures I have air shocks in the rear with no air in them. The entire rear system is worn out. Their are some signs of tire rub on the rear wheel well. That's probably why the rear tires are different from the fronts. Too much sag.

Then we went to working on the windows. And man, that was even more of a pain in the butt from when I fixed it last time. In examining that we found the rubber stopper isn't missing, the clear film is torn up and gunked up in the rails, the sliders aren't even completely on the rails, and the rails aren't even straight. To sum it all up, the windows are very angry! We were able to put it back on the regulator and roll it up a bit but after my uncle realigned the door, the window doesn't fit as it should and now there's a gaping crack since the window is crooked or whatever.

The underside of the engine bay is very very scary. So much grease has accumulated over the past 45 years it is absolutely terrifying. It's all black. That's all going to need to be cleaned with some engine degreaser or some sort of pressure washer.

Looking through the car, it just gets scarier and scarier. We noticed some signs of bondo today. You could see it sanded down a little on the lip of the wheel well. That's probably why there's bubbles in the paint. From the el cheapo $500 paint job on the car. However, we're still diggin' the metallic white paint job so we can leave it at that.

At least we know what we're dealing with now. Next time we'll work on the car will be after midterms (3-4 weeks) or after finals (6-7 weeks). I will not be going to Fall Fling in the Dart but I still want to go and take pictures of cars as well as possibly snagging some goodies from the swap meet.

Even though we were a little bumbed and the car is in a worse condition that before the MC broke loose, we still had a fun time working on the car and cracking jokes about how cobbled together this car is. On our way to get parts we passed by the Downtown Covina annual car show (I didn't even know it was today). So we stopped by and snagged some pictures I'll post in the General Section. Definitely a lot more mopars than usual. It was the most he's seen in one spot at one time.

AGAIN, SORRY FOR CRAPPY CELL PHONE PICS...




www.boosterdeweyexchange.com

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: NV69B7RR] #1267408
10/28/12 12:11 PM
10/28/12 12:11 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Quote:

Way to go Mu! Glad to see you plugging away at the Dart, keep it up!

IF you're going to degrease it all do yourself a favor and go do it a local spray & wash. Just don't hose down the ditributor cap in the process, DAMHIK.




Yeah, we have a local one over here. I'll just wait till the Dart is driveable again.

O, and I have one more thing to do on the car. If you recall, the last time I drove the Dart I was heading down a steep hill without any front brakes and plenty of brake fade. So you can assume my rear drums are glazed over more than a Krispy Kream Doughnut. I have plenty of sand paper so maybe I'll take a couple minutes to rough up my shoes and inner drum cover.

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267409
10/28/12 11:09 PM
10/28/12 11:09 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,492
Candler,NC / Myrtle Beach, SC
J
JDMopar Offline
master
JDMopar  Offline
master
J

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,492
Candler,NC / Myrtle Beach, SC
To get the column out, get a punch and knock the roll pin out that I circled in your pic. Unplug the wiring,remove the bolts that hold the bottom plate of the column to the firewall, and take the nuts off the bottom of the mount, and then the column should pull out. You may have to pry the coupler back at the steering box to get it started out. 2 people work better than one doing this the first time. One to pull back on the column, and one to pry the coupler back. Hope this helps.

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: JDMopar] #1267410
10/28/12 11:50 PM
10/28/12 11:50 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Quote:

To get the column out, get a punch and knock the roll pin out that I circled in your pic. Unplug the wiring,remove the bolts that hold the bottom plate of the column to the firewall, and take the nuts off the bottom of the mount, and then the column should pull out. You may have to pry the coupler back at the steering box to get it started out. 2 people work better than one doing this the first time. One to pull back on the column, and one to pry the coupler back. Hope this helps.




Thanks! It's actually funny because another guy on FABO just happened to post a very similar reply and I just asked him to make sure what the roll pin was. Would you say this roll pin would be reusable as the coupler I have is lacking one?

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267411
10/29/12 12:21 PM
10/29/12 12:21 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,119
85086
moparpollack Offline
Lil Herman
moparpollack  Offline
Lil Herman

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,119
85086
They make roll pin punches that are cheap. If you don't use one you might be there a while.


56 Plaza 63 D100 step side 67 Coronet, 68 Roadrunner, 69 Super Bees, 69 Coronet 500 convertible, 70 Roadrunner Post, 79 D150 360, and a severe case of Mopar a,d,d
Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: moparpollack] #1267412
11/01/12 07:34 PM
11/01/12 07:34 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Still don't know what I want to do with regards to fixing the car. I probably won't get to steering for at least another 2 weeks, if that. And I'm still deciding what to do with the brake issue. My goal is to get the car driving safely by mid December (let's just say Christmas).

For the firewall and brakes it seems like I am, for sure, going to go with Dr. Diffs replacement panel and studs along with his adjustable pushrod. I just don't know if I want to get his aluminum master cylinder (still manual brakes), use the MC I have with an adapter (still have receipt and haven't used it), or switch to "OE" power brakes MC and booster from NAPA (the most expensive, but for the most part correct for the brake system I have).

Lots of people on the board say to switch to manual, "there isn't much difference." I've heard from other close friends (yes, even older fellas) to keep it a power brake car because you "lose so much braking without the booster." I'm really on the fence here. I've never driven a manual brake car. I won't necessarily mind putting more effort in braking, just how much is more?

Just a side note... I would like to upgrade to much bigger brakes all the way around within the next 2-3 years.

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267413
11/01/12 08:10 PM
11/01/12 08:10 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,119
85086
moparpollack Offline
Lil Herman
moparpollack  Offline
Lil Herman

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,119
85086
Read the articles on Ebergs green brick, then start building your car. The steering issue is small nothing an angle grinder can't take care of in minutes.

Sell your sbp brakes and get some bbp off a later model car. If you just follow these tried and true and you won't have to ask the question what should I do next.


56 Plaza 63 D100 step side 67 Coronet, 68 Roadrunner, 69 Super Bees, 69 Coronet 500 convertible, 70 Roadrunner Post, 79 D150 360, and a severe case of Mopar a,d,d
Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: moparpollack] #1267414
11/01/12 09:49 PM
11/01/12 09:49 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Quote:

Read the articles on Ebergs green brick, then start building your car. The steering issue is small nothing an angle grinder can't take care of in minutes.

Sell your sbp brakes and get some bbp off a later model car. If you just follow these tried and true and you won't have to ask the question what should I do next.




I've been wanting to go bbp, but it's only going to come at a big price since at the very least I'm going to have to swap spindles/hubs, UCA's, wheels and tires, and rear axles. Where can I find Eberg's article?

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267415
11/01/12 10:24 PM
11/01/12 10:24 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,119
85086
moparpollack Offline
Lil Herman
moparpollack  Offline
Lil Herman

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,119
85086
Quote:

Quote:

Read the articles on Ebergs green brick, then start building your car. The steering issue is small nothing an angle grinder can't take care of in minutes.

Sell your sbp brakes and get some bbp off a later model car. If you just follow these tried and true and you won't have to ask the question what should I do next.




I've been wanting to go bbp, but it's only going to come at a big price since at the very least I'm going to have to swap spindles/hubs, UCA's, wheels and tires, and rear axles. Where can I find Eberg's article?





www.moparaction.com

Pull a Parts are your friend sometimes you get lucky and get new parts that were just replaced. You should be able to get $200-$275 for your sbp brakes. Planning is key to get thru this hobby with out giving your wallet away. Look for a 8.25 bbp rear they still out there.


56 Plaza 63 D100 step side 67 Coronet, 68 Roadrunner, 69 Super Bees, 69 Coronet 500 convertible, 70 Roadrunner Post, 79 D150 360, and a severe case of Mopar a,d,d
Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: moparpollack] #1267416
11/01/12 10:44 PM
11/01/12 10:44 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Read the articles on Ebergs green brick, then start building your car. The steering issue is small nothing an angle grinder can't take care of in minutes.

Sell your sbp brakes and get some bbp off a later model car. If you just follow these tried and true and you won't have to ask the question what should I do next.




I've been wanting to go bbp, but it's only going to come at a big price since at the very least I'm going to have to swap spindles/hubs, UCA's, wheels and tires, and rear axles. Where can I find Eberg's article?





www.moparaction.com

Pull a Parts are your friend sometimes you get lucky and get new parts that were just replaced. You should be able to get $200-$275 for your sbp brakes. Planning is key to get thru this hobby with out giving your wallet away. Look for a 8.25 bbp rear they still out there.





Idk why, but my laptop doesn't like the magazine specific websites so it won't load the link. I'll check it on a different computer later. I've been wanting to go to a pick a parts for a while. I just haven't had the time to or the vehicle to bring over the large stuff (unless I borrow my mom's SUV). For the rear, couldn't I also find a 65-67 B-body 8 3/4 and just move the spring perches in? It will be a little longer but should fit.

Crap! Now you got me thinking...

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267417
11/23/12 04:26 PM
11/23/12 04:26 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101 Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
MuuMuu101  Offline OP
I got lucky at Woodward!

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
Well, I was a little sick today and had the day off, so instead of moping around all morning I decided to drive on down to the parts store and pick up some hardware for my wheel cylinders as well as some Castrol Superclean Degreaser to clear out the surface rust in the trunk. Overall, not a bad product. Worked wonders. My friend thought I used a wire wheel when I texted him the before and after shots. Cost me about $11.50 for a gallon. Anyways here are before and after pics...

Before:


After:



I'm still trying to gather up all the parts I need for my MC swap. My friend and I should get started on that in about 2-3 weeks. Hopefully the Dart should be ready by Christmas time.

Re: MuuMuu's 68 Dart... It's a Learning Process... [Re: MuuMuu101] #1267418
11/24/12 03:22 AM
11/24/12 03:22 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,779
Mt.Gilead, Ohio
OhioMopar Offline
master
OhioMopar  Offline
master

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,779
Mt.Gilead, Ohio
Good job! Small victories add up. I haven't touched anything in a while. Gotta did the Swinger out tomorrow and get some more pictures.


1969 Dart GTS 340
1969 Super Bee X9 N-96
1969 Coronet R/T X9 N-96
2015 Dodge Dart GT
2019 Ram 2500 Big Horn.
Looking for the original block for my Bee. The last 4 are 7449
Page 9 of 36 1 2 7 8 9 10 11 35 36






Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1