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Adjusting valve lash
#1221458
04/24/12 07:38 AM
04/24/12 07:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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Athens, Greece
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I have the decal that states to set the engine at TDC and then rotate in 90º increments. How many turns should I give the adjustment screw on the rocker AFTER it mates with the cup of the pushrod?
How many threads should be showing on the underside of the screw where the ball is. Is it between zero and two threads?
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: LaRoy Engines]
#1221460
04/24/12 09:09 AM
04/24/12 09:09 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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Quote:
More information is required to give a good recommendation.
The preload of a hydraulic lifter will be specified by the lifter manufacturer, some want .030-.040" some .000-.004", some .060". Who's lifter and part number are you using. Or is it a solid lifter?
The number of threads showing is also dependant on the rocker manufacturer. One to two is generally okay but some don't show any threads when set up correctly and some say back the adjusting screw into the rocker body until it stops and turn it out one turn, then measure for pushrod length, allow for lash/preload, buy the correct pushrod length, install and set load/lash.
eesh...I think the lifters are Isky (only because the Cam is Isky) The rockers are Crane Ductiles.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221461
04/24/12 01:50 PM
04/24/12 01:50 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
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Bend,OR USA
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I like and use the method that follows,rotate the motor over in the normal rotation and then set the intake valve when the ehxaust valve just starts to open, after setting the exhaust rotate the motor over until the intake valve opens all the way and starts to close, up from botton about a 1/3 to 1/2 way up then set the intake rocker  . If your using hydraulic lifters back the adjsusters off enough to get some up and down movement between the pushrod and rocker, slowly tighten the adjsuter until you get zero lash, tighten 1/4 turn and try that. Drive the car and see if you like that, then do it again and try 1/2 turn of preleoad, decide from there
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221462
04/24/12 02:22 PM
04/24/12 02:22 PM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 559
Idaho
LaRoy Engines
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 559
Idaho
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Quote:
Quote:
More information is required to give a good recommendation.
The preload of a hydraulic lifter will be specified by the lifter manufacturer, some want .030-.040" some .000-.004", some .060". Who's lifter and part number are you using. Or is it a solid lifter?
The number of threads showing is also dependant on the rocker manufacturer. One to two is generally okay but some don't show any threads when set up correctly and some say back the adjusting screw into the rocker body until it stops and turn it out one turn, then measure for pushrod length, allow for lash/preload, buy the correct pushrod length, install and set load/lash.
eesh...I think the lifters are Isky (only because the Cam is Isky) The rockers are Crane Ductiles.
Then do as Cab suggests. Under the circumstances that is what I would do.
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1221463
04/24/12 02:52 PM
04/24/12 02:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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Quote:
I like and use the method that follows,rotate the motor over in the normal rotation and then set the intake valve when the ehxaust valve just starts to open, after setting the exhaust rotate the motor over until the intake valve opens all the way and starts to close, up from botton about a 1/3 to 1/2 way up then set the intake rocker . If your using hydraulic lifters back the adjsusters off enough to get some up and down movement between the pushrod and rocker, slowly tighten the adjsuter until you get zero lash, tighten 1/4 turn and try that. Drive the car and see if you like that, then do it again and try 1/2 turn of preleoad, decide from there
Thats how I used to do my Slant except I used .010 / .020 feeler gauges and it was good to go. Gonna try to do this with a remote starter to kick the engine over....Might just take off my clutch fan and see if I can get more of a fine turn out of it...
Thanks fellas
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221464
04/24/12 03:08 PM
04/24/12 03:08 PM
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 632
Casco, MI
Savoy1964
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 632
Casco, MI
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Removing plugs will allow you to turn it over a lot easer.
2003 Dodge 3500 Diesel
1964 Plymouth Savoy White 2dr sdn. 512 stroked, Dominator, New Best 9.75 @ 138.50mph
2019 Challenger Scat Pack 1320 White Knuckle-K&N Cold air filter, Billit Oil catch can, drag radials stock 11.911 @ 114mph
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221466
04/24/12 05:17 PM
04/24/12 05:17 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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the way I do it with a hydralic cam, is to watch the plunger in the lifter, take all the lash out and count how many turns it takes to bottem out the plunger without anything moving. Then I usally will only run about 1/3 of that in preload.
Has never failed me yet and I have rebuilt many different motors.
It don't matter to me who makes what, just that you have the proper preload. Every motor is different even the same make, so I don't see how anyone can tell you "how many turns"?
Like cab said, 1/2 turn of true preload, you can't go wrong just as long as your on the true heel of the cam. Got to be sure...
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: 62maxwgn]
#1221467
04/24/12 05:39 PM
04/24/12 05:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,060
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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3/8 fine thread is 24 threads per inch , that comes out to .041666666 per thread , a bolt has 6 flats , if one full rotation of a nut is one thread , not sure if it is ??? , then each flat is worth .00694444 , make it an even .007 ...
When I did the latest preload in effort to quiet a noisy comp XE grind I physically put every lifter on the base circle opposite the nose on every lobe of the cam and adjusted preload, took a long time but it worked out very well.
Last edited by JohnRR; 04/24/12 06:41 PM.
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221468
04/24/12 05:47 PM
04/24/12 05:47 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
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Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
3/8 fine thread is 24 threads per inch , that comes out to .041666666 per thread , a bolt has 6 flats , if one full rotation oof a nut is one thread , not sure if it is ??? , then each flat is worth .00694444 , make it an even .007 ...
When I did the latest preload in effort to quiet a noisy comp XE grind I physically put every lifter on the base circle opposite the nose on every lobe of the cam and adjusted preload, took a long time but it worked out very well.
Yes I do each one separately, not hard to do on a engine stand. Much tougher in the car I bet?
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1221469
04/24/12 05:48 PM
04/24/12 05:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,060
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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Quote:
Quote:
3/8 fine thread is 24 threads per inch , that comes out to .041666666 per thread , a bolt has 6 flats , if one full rotation oof a nut is one thread , not sure if it is ??? , then each flat is worth .00694444 , make it an even .007 ...
When I did the latest preload in effort to quiet a noisy comp XE grind I physically put every lifter on the base circle opposite the nose on every lobe of the cam and adjusted preload, took a long time but it worked out very well.
Yes I do each one separately, not hard to do on a engine stand. Much tougher in the car I bet?
not really , just harder on the back due to leaning over the fender. The only way to really get a good view of the lobes is with the intake off though.
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221470
04/24/12 05:56 PM
04/24/12 05:56 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
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Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
3/8 fine thread is 24 threads per inch , that comes out to .041666666 per thread , a bolt has 6 flats , if one full rotation oof a nut is one thread , not sure if it is ??? , then each flat is worth .00694444 , make it an even .007 ...
When I did the latest preload in effort to quiet a noisy comp XE grind I physically put every lifter on the base circle opposite the nose on every lobe of the cam and adjusted preload, took a long time but it worked out very well.
Yes I do each one separately, not hard to do on a engine stand. Much tougher in the car I bet?
not really , just harder on the back due to leaning over the fender. The only way to really get a good view of the lobes is with the intake off though .
Definitely, it's the only I have done it.
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221471
04/24/12 06:23 PM
04/24/12 06:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,060
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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Quote:
How many threads should be showing on the underside of the screw where the ball is. Is it between zero and two threads?
check this out Pete
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221472
04/24/12 06:36 PM
04/24/12 06:36 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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1/2 turn on a 3/8-24 thread adjuster would be .021" (.0208")
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1221473
04/24/12 06:42 PM
04/24/12 06:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,060
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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Quote:
1/2 turn on a 3/8-24 thread adjuster would be .021" (.0208")
yes and ???
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221474
04/25/12 09:47 AM
04/25/12 09:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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I have the rockers soaking in 30wt right now. Its about 345pm here. Buttoning up the exhaust to the manifolds, draining the oil and filling it back up with a my new non-Fram filter  Hopefully by the time that is all finished it will be about 530pm here and I can call Todd at Comp Wedge who made the Harlands for me. Judging from the little time I tinkered with the pushrods and the rocker I may have about 3-4 threads showing. If I can run it that way and I get a green light then I will go ahead with it. If not...then I will wait for another car show, its not that important. Harland instructions say to use Zinc additive in the oil. I have never seen anyone selling zinc additive here or oil with a high zinc content. Is it critical to the first time usage? I am running Castrol 20w-50 because frankly I have 5 gallons of it and oil here is next to the price of gold here.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221475
04/25/12 10:18 AM
04/25/12 10:18 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,762
Windsor, ON, Canada
Diplomat360
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,762
Windsor, ON, Canada
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The normal lifter pre-load talk goes a bit out the window if you start talking about the anti pump-up lifters. Most manufacturers recommend that these types of lifters be set to 0 (zero) pre-load. The procedure is to basically locate the lifter on the base of the cam lobe, losen up the rocker arm screw, then slowly tighten up. As you do this, rotate the pushrod between your fingers...as soon as you feel it catch/slow down you are basically sensing that all clearance has been taken up. With the anti pump-up lifter you leave it there...that is because the lifter is meant to act as if it was solid lifter, the anti pump-up is meant to prevent the oil build-up in the body of the lifter at high RPM and therefore the normal take-up of the clearance which may cause the intake valve to remain off seat (instead of closing) and therefore a myriad of other problems.
I've been using these in my 360 motor...
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221479
04/25/12 02:06 PM
04/25/12 02:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,060
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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Quote:
Quote:
How many threads does the instructions for the HS rockers call for ? One other issue you need to pay attention to is oil getting to the cup , some adjusters have to be in a certain spot for the oil to make it to the cup.
I feel like a scolded child
It says between 0 and 2
Quote:
Many options to choose from but yes you need enough zinc
I think I may know a place its like a two hour drive roundtrip. If anyone has it, they would, Guy is from New Jersey and imports alot of stuff.
Quote:
therefore a myriad of other problems.
Seems a simple head swap has turned into a massive myriad of issues.
Not trying to make you feel like a scolded child .
It would be a simple head swap if you were putting on another set of open chamber iron heads.
I guess all you can do is hope for the best , run it for the one show it seems you are trying to make and order the correct size pushrods in the mean time .
How old is that oil you have, it may be fine?
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221480
04/25/12 02:42 PM
04/25/12 02:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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Oil is probably 5 years old..
I talked to Randy Jr @ Harland. He said anything over 4 visible threads and new pushrods have to be ordered. Just as you (John) mentioned with the thread count and measuring, he said that each thread is measured at .050" so If I have 4 threads showing I should try to get pushrods that are .150" longer just to keep one thread visible...
I just mounted the other side of the rocker assy. Going to see what I have as far as threads.
As for the zinc he said that Amsoil, Lucas, Joe Gibbs additives would work. He said I can run what I have for now and order a bottle and pour it in there just don't leave it for an extended period without it.
One question on the zinc though, I added "Prolong" years ago as the initial treatment and I have the booster bottle. Would that suffice as far as oil additive for the metal to metal friction? It was the hoo-hah years ago and its been sitting on my shelf waiting for another oil change to come along...don't laugh...The website says it contains no zinc, molys, graphite, or copper.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221481
04/25/12 03:35 PM
04/25/12 03:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,060
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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Quote:
One question on the zinc though, I added "Prolong" years ago as the initial treatment and I have the booster bottle. Would that suffice as far as oil additive for the metal to metal friction? It was the hoo-hah years ago and its been sitting on my shelf waiting for another oil change to come along...don't laugh...The website says it contains no zinc, molys, graphite, or copper.
Snake oil, as as the website says, no zinc , it is not going to do anything to cover what HS suggests.
Can you get Valvoline VR1 racing oil over there ?
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221482
04/25/12 03:45 PM
04/25/12 03:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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Well I am pooched.
I put the engine to TDC and checked the intake valve on #2....The cup of the 9" pushrod was inside the Harland rocker arm. I thought I had an adjustable pushrod around here but its been a decade since I have seen it. I found an old 383 rod in a box and put it in the slot. Put the assembly back on and torqued it down. I adjusted the rocker arm ball screw just as the pushrod couldn't spin anymore. I removed the assembly and counted eight threads. So what I am assuming is a 383 rod (measured length is 41.1cm ball to end of cup) 41.1cm is 8.307 inches (My calipers only go up to 6" so I used a measuring tape)
8.307 + (7 * .050) = 8.657"
Seems awfully short doesnt it? Edelbrock wanted me to purchase 9.125" rods per the instruction manual
Now to go and see what is available in the 8.650 series with one end as a ball and the other as a cup
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221484
04/25/12 04:36 PM
04/25/12 04:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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Athens, Greece
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unless my lifters are very tall
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221486
04/25/12 05:39 PM
04/25/12 05:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 780
Woodinville, WA
Viol8r
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 780
Woodinville, WA
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Quote:
Well I am pooched.
I put the engine to TDC and checked the intake valve on #2....The cup of the 9" pushrod was inside the Harland rocker arm. I thought I had an adjustable pushrod around here but its been a decade since I have seen it. I found an old 383 rod in a box and put it in the slot. Put the assembly back on and torqued it down. I adjusted the rocker arm ball screw just as the pushrod couldn't spin anymore. I removed the assembly and counted eight threads. So what I am assuming is a 383 rod (measured length is 41.1cm ball to end of cup) 41.1cm is 8.307 inches (My calipers only go up to 6" so I used a measuring tape)
8.307 + (7 * .050) = 8.657"
Seems awfully short doesnt it? Edelbrock wanted me to purchase 9.125" rods per the instruction manual
Now to go and see what is available in the 8.650 series with one end as a ball and the other as a cup
9.125" is the correct length. The ball sits in the cup and the actually bottom of cup to ball length is around 8.950". That is what I use.....Hardened 5/16"
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Viol8r]
#1221487
04/25/12 06:21 PM
04/25/12 06:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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This is what happens when you stay on the car for 8-10 hours a day for 5 days...
Per the decal for adjusting the timing...it says to bring the motor to TDC...(conveniently my timing strip is ripped away on both sides of TDC but I can visibly see the timing mark in the balancer) and adjust the #2 intake / #8 exhaust.
Mind you I had the intake on because I figured that this is the way to do it since the decal can't be wrong. I am sitting here looking at measurements and the cam lobes....at TDC my #2 intake lifter is at the top of the lobe...well of course I have 8 threads showing....the valve is supposed to be opening at this point. Tomorrow I will be doing it CAB's way...just like I always knew how to do it with my slant. I am hoping it works...
You may begin to make fun of me now..
&^%$ I am tired
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: ahy]
#1221490
04/26/12 08:46 AM
04/26/12 08:46 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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Drivers side bank went without a hitch...I have threads showing on the ball.
Passenger side 6 of the 8 lifters were collapsed so I took them out and cleaned them out and pumped em back up again. I got #6 & #8 valves to finish off...then I'll run through with a remote trigger and listen for funny noises in the valve train, put the intake back on and hook up the fuel/spark/electrical system. Hopefully good news to report later on.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221491
04/26/12 10:02 AM
04/26/12 10:02 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
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Marysville, O-H-I-O
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I got stumped one time following the cam chart. I could not figure out why at TDC, I was NOT on the base circle. I thought my cam timing was like 90 degrees off. I put a degree wheel on it and found I was dead on my installed centerline that the cam card called for. went back to setting pre-load, still not on the base circle that it said I should be when at TDC.
I had to spin the engine over a few times before I realized what was going on.
when you install the cam so that the timing dots are lined up, that is NOT TDC on compression! it's 180 out. to get it to TDC on compression, I had to rotate the engine 180, THEN the cam-lash chart started working for me!
make sure you're engine is at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke to start the adjusting.
Also, it sounds like you already installed the intake manifold? you can do it with the manifold on, but I really like doing it with the manifold off so I can see the cam lobes, the lifters, and the plunger in the lifter start to move.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: ahy]
#1221492
04/26/12 10:27 AM
04/26/12 10:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,060
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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Quote:
For the high zinc oil, buy some diesel engine oil. Rotella T or local equivalent would be fine. A can of STP would be added insurance but not necessary unless you have real high spring pressures.
Diesels oils have gotten emissions friendly also over the past 4 or 5 years , there isn't as much zinc in them as there used to be .
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1221493
04/26/12 10:31 AM
04/26/12 10:31 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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Quote:
I got stumped one time following the cam chart. I could not figure out why at TDC, I was NOT on the base circle. I thought my cam timing was like 90 degrees off. I put a degree wheel on it and found I was dead on my installed centerline that the cam card called for. went back to setting pre-load, still not on the base circle that it said I should be when at TDC.
I had to spin the engine over a few times before I realized what was going on.
when you install the cam so that the timing dots are lined up, that is NOT TDC on compression! it's 180 out. to get it to TDC on compression, I had to rotate the engine 180, THEN the cam-lash chart started working for me!
make sure you're engine is at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke to start the adjusting.
Also, it sounds like you already installed the intake manifold? you can do it with the manifold on, but I really like doing it with the manifold off so I can see the cam lobes, the lifters, and the plunger in the lifter start to move.
I started out with the cam card...I gave up on it. I popped the intake off last night in a fit of rage right before bed and saw what I did wrong. I just sealed the valley pan down now after having primed the lifter bay. I can't get the oil galleys to line up to prime the heads/rockers. I put it on TDC of the #1 exhaust stroke and decided that *hopefully* the rockers will get primed when I hook up the fuel system. I am squirting alot of fuel out without my carbs hooked up.
Progress Picture
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221494
04/26/12 12:36 PM
04/26/12 12:36 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Yes dot to dot (6 & 12 o'clock) #6 cyl not #1 is firing. On the preoiling, at that point (TDC #6 compression) one side (forget which) head should be oiling & backing up 3/4 turn on the crank to #8 firing the other side should be oiling
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1221495
04/26/12 12:48 PM
04/26/12 12:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
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You lost me Robert I hooked up the intake and cranked it....went around 7-8 times and all is well with the oil. Taking a break...I am 6'5 and hunched over a car is killing my back...Passenger side spark plugs are in. I am set at TDC on the harmonic/distributor. I have the drivers side spark bank to do and the throttle/kickdown linkage. top off with coolant and...well...thats it
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221497
04/26/12 02:11 PM
04/26/12 02:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
ahy
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
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Quote:
Quote:
For the high zinc oil, buy some diesel engine oil. Rotella T or local equivalent would be fine. A can of STP would be added insurance but not necessary unless you have real high spring pressures.
Diesels oils have gotten emissions friendly also over the past 4 or 5 years , there isn't as much zinc in them as there used to be .
My understanding also... they still have around 1200 PPM zinc which is sufficient for a normal FT application so a good option.
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: ahy]
#1221498
04/26/12 02:46 PM
04/26/12 02:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
For the high zinc oil, buy some diesel engine oil. Rotella T or local equivalent would be fine. A can of STP would be added insurance but not necessary unless you have real high spring pressures.
Diesels oils have gotten emissions friendly also over the past 4 or 5 years , there isn't as much zinc in them as there used to be .
My understanding also... they still have around 1200 PPM zinc which is sufficient for a normal FT application so a good option.
Maybe the content is higher in the oil here? There is no EPA to breathe down their backs...
I asked the Mopar Gods, the blessed 4/26 day, and a little magic from my brother above. I got her started...I felt a cold wind brush against neck when I turned the key.
She starts, she runs, first turn of the key. Now I have to go get another 5 quarts of coolant and some distilled water...aiming for 50/50 mixture.
There is a tick somewhere in the lifters, I dunno which bank, but I wanna warm her up first and see if the lifter fills with oil and see if it disappears.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221500
04/26/12 03:36 PM
04/26/12 03:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
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I used the same gaskets from the Fel-Pro kit that were on there already. It wasn't ticking before. I cranked them down but I'll go through and re-torque them again tomorrow. They won't stay on there long though, I still have to get to the exhaust shop and have them put in a new mid-section. When the headers go on I'll be installing the RemFlex gaskets on the entire system.
I can't thank you enough John and the rest of you fellas for the help, the tips, the know-how.
I really need to cut down the jets tomorrow on the primary carb, she is running very fat. Im calling it an early night...its 930 now....considering yesterday I went to bed at 3am
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1221502
04/26/12 06:55 PM
04/26/12 06:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,060
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,060
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
Check the manifold vacume in gear, make sure the power valve vacume rating is lower than the manifold vacume, no matter what anyone else says on here about power valves and manifold vacume
pretty sure he is running ebrock carbs .
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221504
04/27/12 09:26 AM
04/27/12 09:26 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
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I actually scored a bottle of Torco Zinc Additive today, dude didnt have Amsoil, Lucas or Gibbs. Last bottle he had...little expensive since its imported ($25). I'll order 2-3 for my shelf from the States.
Also bummed he didn't have my choice Castrol GTX 20w50 anymore...he said its one of the most expensive oils in the States now and he has no clientele for it here...He sold me a bottle of the Torco TR-1 20w50 for $10 (again...expensive..but its to compliment my four quarts of Castrol GTX I have left over for another oil change) but since I do an oil change every two years on average for the miles I drive. It's not that bad I guess
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221506
04/27/12 11:55 AM
04/27/12 11:55 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
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OP
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Athens, Greece
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I dunno...thats what I have always run...Ran it on my Slant 6...ran it on my 452, ran it on this 440. It was a good blend. My friend put me on it because I believe my Slant when it first started in my hands had 100k miles on it. I needed to take up the slack in the cylinders. Even after it was rebuilt, I kept with 20w50. The 452 had loose clearances and I was running straight 50 grade but it was replaced eventually by 20w50. When we put this 440 together two mechanics and one engine builder told me 20w50 is fine
Its the age old dilemma...what oil should you run. I have great oil pressure, 60lbs at idle, cold. 40 when hot.
What do you run in yours?
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221508
04/27/12 02:08 PM
04/27/12 02:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
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Found the possible tick...after I took apart almost all the lifters on the passenger side yesterday, cleaned em out, and bench bled them back to pressure...the #6 Intake is spongy. I am hoping that as I run this motor in now to temperature so the oil galleys can fill as well as the thermostat opening to drink more coolant to get the lifter to pump up. Otherwise...looks I'll be pulling the manifold again tonight
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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