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Adjusting valve lash
#1221458
04/24/12 07:38 AM
04/24/12 07:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
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I have the decal that states to set the engine at TDC and then rotate in 90º increments. How many turns should I give the adjustment screw on the rocker AFTER it mates with the cup of the pushrod?
How many threads should be showing on the underside of the screw where the ball is. Is it between zero and two threads?
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: LaRoy Engines]
#1221460
04/24/12 09:09 AM
04/24/12 09:09 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
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Quote:
More information is required to give a good recommendation.
The preload of a hydraulic lifter will be specified by the lifter manufacturer, some want .030-.040" some .000-.004", some .060". Who's lifter and part number are you using. Or is it a solid lifter?
The number of threads showing is also dependant on the rocker manufacturer. One to two is generally okay but some don't show any threads when set up correctly and some say back the adjusting screw into the rocker body until it stops and turn it out one turn, then measure for pushrod length, allow for lash/preload, buy the correct pushrod length, install and set load/lash.
eesh...I think the lifters are Isky (only because the Cam is Isky) The rockers are Crane Ductiles.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221461
04/24/12 01:50 PM
04/24/12 01:50 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,232
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,232
Bend,OR USA
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I like and use the method that follows,rotate the motor over in the normal rotation and then set the intake valve when the ehxaust valve just starts to open, after setting the exhaust rotate the motor over until the intake valve opens all the way and starts to close, up from botton about a 1/3 to 1/2 way up then set the intake rocker  . If your using hydraulic lifters back the adjsusters off enough to get some up and down movement between the pushrod and rocker, slowly tighten the adjsuter until you get zero lash, tighten 1/4 turn and try that. Drive the car and see if you like that, then do it again and try 1/2 turn of preleoad, decide from there
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221462
04/24/12 02:22 PM
04/24/12 02:22 PM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 559
Idaho
LaRoy Engines
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 559
Idaho
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Quote:
Quote:
More information is required to give a good recommendation.
The preload of a hydraulic lifter will be specified by the lifter manufacturer, some want .030-.040" some .000-.004", some .060". Who's lifter and part number are you using. Or is it a solid lifter?
The number of threads showing is also dependant on the rocker manufacturer. One to two is generally okay but some don't show any threads when set up correctly and some say back the adjusting screw into the rocker body until it stops and turn it out one turn, then measure for pushrod length, allow for lash/preload, buy the correct pushrod length, install and set load/lash.
eesh...I think the lifters are Isky (only because the Cam is Isky) The rockers are Crane Ductiles.
Then do as Cab suggests. Under the circumstances that is what I would do.
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1221463
04/24/12 02:52 PM
04/24/12 02:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
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Quote:
I like and use the method that follows,rotate the motor over in the normal rotation and then set the intake valve when the ehxaust valve just starts to open, after setting the exhaust rotate the motor over until the intake valve opens all the way and starts to close, up from botton about a 1/3 to 1/2 way up then set the intake rocker . If your using hydraulic lifters back the adjsusters off enough to get some up and down movement between the pushrod and rocker, slowly tighten the adjsuter until you get zero lash, tighten 1/4 turn and try that. Drive the car and see if you like that, then do it again and try 1/2 turn of preleoad, decide from there
Thats how I used to do my Slant except I used .010 / .020 feeler gauges and it was good to go. Gonna try to do this with a remote starter to kick the engine over....Might just take off my clutch fan and see if I can get more of a fine turn out of it...
Thanks fellas
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221464
04/24/12 03:08 PM
04/24/12 03:08 PM
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 632
Casco, MI
Savoy1964
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 632
Casco, MI
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Removing plugs will allow you to turn it over a lot easer.
2003 Dodge 3500 Diesel
1964 Plymouth Savoy White 2dr sdn. 512 stroked, Dominator, New Best 9.75 @ 138.50mph
2019 Challenger Scat Pack 1320 White Knuckle-K&N Cold air filter, Billit Oil catch can, drag radials stock 11.911 @ 114mph
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221466
04/24/12 05:17 PM
04/24/12 05:17 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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the way I do it with a hydralic cam, is to watch the plunger in the lifter, take all the lash out and count how many turns it takes to bottem out the plunger without anything moving. Then I usally will only run about 1/3 of that in preload.
Has never failed me yet and I have rebuilt many different motors.
It don't matter to me who makes what, just that you have the proper preload. Every motor is different even the same make, so I don't see how anyone can tell you "how many turns"?
Like cab said, 1/2 turn of true preload, you can't go wrong just as long as your on the true heel of the cam. Got to be sure...
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: 62maxwgn]
#1221467
04/24/12 05:39 PM
04/24/12 05:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,066
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,066
U.S.S.A.
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3/8 fine thread is 24 threads per inch , that comes out to .041666666 per thread , a bolt has 6 flats , if one full rotation of a nut is one thread , not sure if it is ??? , then each flat is worth .00694444 , make it an even .007 ...
When I did the latest preload in effort to quiet a noisy comp XE grind I physically put every lifter on the base circle opposite the nose on every lobe of the cam and adjusted preload, took a long time but it worked out very well.
Last edited by JohnRR; 04/24/12 06:41 PM.
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221468
04/24/12 05:47 PM
04/24/12 05:47 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
3/8 fine thread is 24 threads per inch , that comes out to .041666666 per thread , a bolt has 6 flats , if one full rotation oof a nut is one thread , not sure if it is ??? , then each flat is worth .00694444 , make it an even .007 ...
When I did the latest preload in effort to quiet a noisy comp XE grind I physically put every lifter on the base circle opposite the nose on every lobe of the cam and adjusted preload, took a long time but it worked out very well.
Yes I do each one separately, not hard to do on a engine stand. Much tougher in the car I bet?
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1221469
04/24/12 05:48 PM
04/24/12 05:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,066
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,066
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
Quote:
3/8 fine thread is 24 threads per inch , that comes out to .041666666 per thread , a bolt has 6 flats , if one full rotation oof a nut is one thread , not sure if it is ??? , then each flat is worth .00694444 , make it an even .007 ...
When I did the latest preload in effort to quiet a noisy comp XE grind I physically put every lifter on the base circle opposite the nose on every lobe of the cam and adjusted preload, took a long time but it worked out very well.
Yes I do each one separately, not hard to do on a engine stand. Much tougher in the car I bet?
not really , just harder on the back due to leaning over the fender. The only way to really get a good view of the lobes is with the intake off though.
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221470
04/24/12 05:56 PM
04/24/12 05:56 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
3/8 fine thread is 24 threads per inch , that comes out to .041666666 per thread , a bolt has 6 flats , if one full rotation oof a nut is one thread , not sure if it is ??? , then each flat is worth .00694444 , make it an even .007 ...
When I did the latest preload in effort to quiet a noisy comp XE grind I physically put every lifter on the base circle opposite the nose on every lobe of the cam and adjusted preload, took a long time but it worked out very well.
Yes I do each one separately, not hard to do on a engine stand. Much tougher in the car I bet?
not really , just harder on the back due to leaning over the fender. The only way to really get a good view of the lobes is with the intake off though .
Definitely, it's the only I have done it.
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221471
04/24/12 06:23 PM
04/24/12 06:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,066
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,066
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
How many threads should be showing on the underside of the screw where the ball is. Is it between zero and two threads?
check this out Pete
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221472
04/24/12 06:36 PM
04/24/12 06:36 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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1/2 turn on a 3/8-24 thread adjuster would be .021" (.0208")
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1221473
04/24/12 06:42 PM
04/24/12 06:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,066
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,066
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
1/2 turn on a 3/8-24 thread adjuster would be .021" (.0208")
yes and ???
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: JohnRR]
#1221474
04/25/12 09:47 AM
04/25/12 09:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,906
Athens, Greece
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I have the rockers soaking in 30wt right now. Its about 345pm here. Buttoning up the exhaust to the manifolds, draining the oil and filling it back up with a my new non-Fram filter  Hopefully by the time that is all finished it will be about 530pm here and I can call Todd at Comp Wedge who made the Harlands for me. Judging from the little time I tinkered with the pushrods and the rocker I may have about 3-4 threads showing. If I can run it that way and I get a green light then I will go ahead with it. If not...then I will wait for another car show, its not that important. Harland instructions say to use Zinc additive in the oil. I have never seen anyone selling zinc additive here or oil with a high zinc content. Is it critical to the first time usage? I am running Castrol 20w-50 because frankly I have 5 gallons of it and oil here is next to the price of gold here.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Adjusting valve lash
[Re: Pyper70]
#1221475
04/25/12 10:18 AM
04/25/12 10:18 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,762
Windsor, ON, Canada
Diplomat360
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,762
Windsor, ON, Canada
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The normal lifter pre-load talk goes a bit out the window if you start talking about the anti pump-up lifters. Most manufacturers recommend that these types of lifters be set to 0 (zero) pre-load. The procedure is to basically locate the lifter on the base of the cam lobe, losen up the rocker arm screw, then slowly tighten up. As you do this, rotate the pushrod between your fingers...as soon as you feel it catch/slow down you are basically sensing that all clearance has been taken up. With the anti pump-up lifter you leave it there...that is because the lifter is meant to act as if it was solid lifter, the anti pump-up is meant to prevent the oil build-up in the body of the lifter at high RPM and therefore the normal take-up of the clearance which may cause the intake valve to remain off seat (instead of closing) and therefore a myriad of other problems.
I've been using these in my 360 motor...
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