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Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: Secret Chimp] #1198235
03/17/12 04:10 PM
03/17/12 04:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443
Indiana
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YO7_A66 Offline
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Indiana
I just had my first two test drives using manifold vacuum and the idle in D and the vacuum reading and idle rpm's were smoooth.

The idle was lean at first but once I retuned the carb, the in D idle was excellent.

Note: FBO vacuum advance dist.: 32 degrees in N and in D.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: RapidRobert] #1198236
03/17/12 06:06 PM
03/17/12 06:06 PM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,274
Ontario.Canada
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can.al Offline
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Ontario.Canada
..with a large cam and lo manifold vac at idle, a mopar can will not advance properly and will just dither in and out and give an unstable idle.
..a replacement can that starts advancing at 2 or 3" below the idle vacuum is required.
.. this will give more advance at idle,a cooler more complete
burn,and probably no overheating at the stop lights.
..by running ported vacuum you are probably leaving a little on the table.

Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: can.al] #1198237
03/17/12 09:46 PM
03/17/12 09:46 PM
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Posts: 4,785
Utah and Alaska
astjp2 Offline
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Where did the Hemi get its vacuume from? All I have is a port at the back of the manifold. Tim

Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: can.al] #1198238
03/17/12 10:48 PM
03/17/12 10:48 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,880
Oregon
hooziewhatsit Offline
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Oregon
Quote:

..with a large cam and lo manifold vac at idle, a mopar can will not advance properly and will just dither in and out and give an unstable idle.
..a replacement can that starts advancing at 2 or 3" below the idle vacuum is required.





I would agree with this. As long as your idle vacuum is a few inches above the vacuum needed for full advance, it should work just fine.

The trouble arises when your idle vacuum and can vacuum are the same (or close), then you get feedback loops that lead to a roaming idle.

edit: as long as your idle vacuum in drive is higher than the can vacuum, it should work just fine.

Last edited by hooziewhatsit; 03/18/12 12:18 AM.

If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: hooziewhatsit] #1198239
03/18/12 12:14 AM
03/18/12 12:14 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe Offline
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I was having similar issues with unsteady idle that was surging in D and N. Switching over to manifold vacuum at the suggestion of some guys here took care of that. Idle is now smooth and steady, and no more huge drop in rpm from N to D. I just have a stock replacement dizzy with pertronix though. I would like to learn how to adjust the advance curve with someones help in person though. I've seen it described many times on here but I like to be hands on with someone to guide me when doing stuff like this for the first time.

roe



1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: roe] #1198240
03/18/12 12:23 PM
03/18/12 12:23 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,789
Hamilton, Ontario Canada
Magnum Offline
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Magnum  Offline
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So a few members have tried manifold vacuum advance.

Found an improvement in idle quality, tip in and mileage and the rest of you insist on telling us it will not work according to instructions from 40 years ago.

At light load, partial throttle. Mild engines will happily motor along at 40-50 deg of timing.

If it takes 9" to pull a typical cannister open. Who cares if the vacuum is fluctuating between 12-22. The can will not move.


69 Super Bee, 93 Mustang LX, 04 Allure Super
Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: roe] #1198241
03/18/12 11:52 PM
03/18/12 11:52 PM
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Posts: 653
montana
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pjc360 Offline
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montana
I tried running my vaccume advance off of manifold vaccume and it kicked my idle up pretty high and everytime i put it in drive the dash would start vibrating and shaking, but i honestly could not tell a diffference in off idle or light throttle cruising power at all, in fact i made a run on manifold vaccume around my block and on ported vaccume and i swear it was running better on ported vaccume, but yes the manfold vaccume did give it better idle qaulity but other then that i think i will stick to ported vaccume.

Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: can.al] #1198242
03/19/12 03:16 PM
03/19/12 03:16 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,712
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda Offline
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Where do you get these cans?


In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: pjc360] #1198243
03/19/12 04:09 PM
03/19/12 04:09 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
Mattax Offline
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Quote:

.. but i honestly could not tell a diffference in off idle or light throttle cruising power at all, in fact i made a run on manifold vaccume around my block and on ported vaccume and i swear it was running better on ported vaccume




The reason it seemed the same under those circumstances is because it essentially was. The vacuum from ported and the vacuum from manifold become indistinguishable as the throttle opens.

At idle, in neutral (or Park) there is very little load. Therefore the engine only needs to overcome the internal friction. So you could advance the heck out of it and get away with it. But as you found, the improvement was an illusion. The real test at idle is in D for automatics and with the alternator loaded (lights & fan on). If the engine still is fine with a relatively leaner mix, then using manifold vacuum to advance the timing may be a good match. If the engine prefers a richer mix, then additional advance is probably hurtful and ported is likely to work better.

For stock and close even modified engines, the typical factory protocol is the way to go. Usually it involves plugging the vacuum line to the distributor (golf tee is a favorite). Set the timing and idle mix at a given rpm (in D for autos). Check the mechanical advance. Then reconnect the vacuum lines and check the timing at given rpm. For non-stock engines of course the are no specs so you have to develop your own baseline.

As described in my first post (and link) which way to set up an engine depends on the engine.

Last edited by Mattax; 03/19/12 04:13 PM.
Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: Mattax] #1198244
03/19/12 07:49 PM
03/19/12 07:49 PM
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montana
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pjc360 Offline
mopar
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montana
The engine i tried the full manifold vaccume on is a 360 magnum it's putting out 319 horse power at 4750 rpm and 424 ft lbs of torque at 4200 rpm , i'm running hedman headers with 2 inch dual exhaust and an h pipe with 24 inch glass packs along with the edelbrock dual plane rpm air gap intake manifold with a 600 cfm manual choke edelbrock carburetor and the mopar electronic vaccume advance distributer and the mopar electronic ignition. Full manifold vaccume kicked th idle up quite a bit made the dash shake while in drive but still drove the same to me at least with ported vacume i can controll my idle better and my dash does not shake real bad. But i do need to re-curve my distributer, i been trying to decide if i want to take my current distributer apart and shorten the slots so i can run a higher initial or if i should just buy a new mopar electronic vacume advance distributer that has the adjustable mechanical advance in it. The distributer i currently have is about ten years old and i like the idea of being able to adjust my mechanical advance with out having to tear the whole distributer down so im leaning more twords buying a new mopar distributer that has the mallory guts in it so i can adjust the mechanical advance with the distributer in the vehicle.

Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: pjc360] #1198245
03/20/12 10:33 AM
03/20/12 10:33 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746
Ontario, Canada
Dodgem Offline
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Hooking to manifold vacuum just masks a problem but is a quick fix for people who lack the now how (like the guy at FBO) to get their idle timing to a place where it needs to be after performance changes.

Vacuum advance was designed to pull extra timing on at highway cruise to give better gas mileage. If your using it improperly at idle you are not making proper use of it cruise.

So going to manifold vacuum at idle you will be giving up some of the performance a motor could offer and will also not be getting all the gas mileage available.

To most on hear the all the power a motor can deliver is not a Goal so my question is why the upgrades???

Last edited by Dodgem; 03/20/12 10:34 AM.
Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: Dodgem] #1198246
03/20/12 11:23 AM
03/20/12 11:23 AM
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Posts: 2,825
Sk. Canada
RemCharger Offline
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I can see how its easier to switch hoses around than to design your distributor properly.
Plus it gives you a reason to be in the garage without wrecking anything!

Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: RemCharger] #1198247
03/20/12 07:41 PM
03/20/12 07:41 PM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,704
Nebraska
70VcodeCoronetRT Offline
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Nebraska
So does FBO recommend manifold vacuum with their distributors?

Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: 70VcodeCoronetRT] #1198248
03/20/12 08:48 PM
03/20/12 08:48 PM
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 817
Eugene, Oregon
Secret Chimp Offline OP
super stock
Secret Chimp  Offline OP
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Eugene, Oregon
Quote:

So does FBO recommend manifold vacuum with their distributors?




Yes, though they do things with the vacuum pots to make them hold idle correctly. People have had problems with flakey FBO ECUs in the past but I don't think anybody's ever complained about their distributors.


1967 Dodge Coronet Deluxe station wagon

1.03" T-bars, QA1 arms/rods, Cordoba/GM Metric/Volare brake & knuckle, XHDs, Hellwig rear sway, 318 Magnum w/ air gap, 727, 3.23s
Re: Manifold vacuum - try it! [Re: Secret Chimp] #1198249
03/20/12 08:53 PM
03/20/12 08:53 PM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,704
Nebraska
70VcodeCoronetRT Offline
top fuel
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Nebraska
OK Thanks, just received mine from them and forgot to ask.

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