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Re: What brand of slicks is better?
[Re: hugo]
#1176298
02/12/12 05:29 PM
02/12/12 05:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,928
NC
440Jim
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,928
NC
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Quote:
Hey Jim if the slick is already stiff wall is their a need to run tubes? Are your slicks non stiff wall and thats the reason you use tubes?
Phoenix doesn't say if the "W" tires are stiff wall or not. I do feel the added tread rubber of the "W" will slightly increase the stiffness, but I doubt it is much. I was killing sidewalls for awhile, and was only getting 90 passes before the tire stopped working, and it had plenty of rubber left. So, I made changes:
1) Added inner tubes
2) Changed from 12" wide rims to 14"
3) Lowered ladder bar front mount hole
4) This allowed raising tire pressure 1.0 psi to 11.0 psi
5) religiously rotate slicks
All that, and now I go over 200 passes. I even ran one set until the chords showed through the rubber (mistake).
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Re: What brand of slicks is better?
[Re: jamesc]
#1176301
02/12/12 09:36 PM
02/12/12 09:36 PM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,071
Mo.
racerx
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,071
Mo.
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Quote:
i won't argue that the age of slicks can/will impact their performance. having said that the tires on the sig car were probably at least ten years old (obviously sat a good bit) and i replaced them thinking they had to be bad. you know what the performance difference with the new tires was...absolutely nothing, zero. 
Same here....i had a set of the M/T that were manufactured in 91 and ran a best of 1.28 60'at 3350.but the slicks were taken off during the off season and kept in control climate.I'm looking to replace my 10.5w's with a set of TT.5's to run in some of the TT.5 stuff.............. 
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Re: What brand of slicks is better?
[Re: moparacer]
#1176303
02/12/12 10:00 PM
02/12/12 10:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,928
NC
440Jim
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,928
NC
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Quote:
Quote:
My ladder is at the top hole of the five adjustments where do you have yours 440Jim and where did it use to be. When you lowered your bar you think that was what helped you not kill the side wall or the rims?
If you are in the top hole of a ladder bar setup you are killing the tire and hitting it too hard I bet.
Raising the ladder bar hits the tire harder, and lowering it hits it softer.
Most every car has to have the ladder bar angled down in the front or it will hit the tire too hard.
Overall, I agree.
It does depend on a lot of factors including car weight, gear ratio, engine torque, etc. Not to mention where the builder put the holes in the first place! So you can't compare one car to another by hole location alone. But the movement he mentioned is my understanding also.
My car combo was hitting the tire too hard and killing the tire, so I made several changes to correct that.
Hugo, if the lower bar of the "triangle" is pointing up any amount, I think your car (combo dependant) would benefit from lowering it 1 or 2 inches. Weight transfer, front end settings, and shock adjustments all play a role.
Your strut front suspension likely doesn't have the travel/weight transfer of a stocker, but as long as you are not spinning bad (maybe a 1/2 or 1 turn) you should be able to adjust the chassis to work with the low torque multiplication of the PG transmission and somewhat less weight than I have. But ladder bar rear suspensions tend to hit the tire hard, so lowering the front mount on a high horsepower car (which hits the tire on its own), can help with the tires.
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