Got my motor back from the engine builder yesterday. Everything fine except he pointed out that the timing chain was loose. It is a cloyes true roller (9-1104) that I got from an outfit on line. It came taped closed with packaging tape.

383 motor that was std bore and std journaled crank. He said it did not appear to ever been line bored and considering the bore and crank situation that would seem to make sense.

Has anyone out there had trouble with new timing sets installing loose?

I was trying to figure out the next step. I believe I will bite the bullet and order another set as I feel the one I got online could be suspect. Chain is too sloppy... moves 1/2 inch freely... typical of of what a warn chain would show.

I hear they make chain sets .005 and .010 under for line bored motors. Anyone have any experience with them? i.e. how much slop would one take up vs. the other?

I would start with buying a known new chain in a sealed package.

you got a oor grade timing set,i got one off line and it was loose buy from a reputable source, jegs,summit etc.

I'm on it. Thanks for the feedback fellas. Will order new. Hoping that will take care of it!

I have had Cloyes and Edelbrock double row timing sets that had some slack in them. I have used the 440 source timming sets and the chain fit was better than the ones listed above.

I got a Melling double roller set and it fit better but there is still some movement in the chain. When turning crank and deflecting all play to one side of chain, there is a little more than a 1/4 inch of play. Should I run that? I am considering going with a .005 under gear set.

Any ideas or advice?

Thanks!!

Best chain I have found is the Speed Pro seamless roller.It's not cheap and not everyone stock them.If you don't have the gears and chain perfectly straight when you go to install them you can't get them on,they either go on lined up or they won't go at all.Not cheap,last set was around $135,you get what you pay for.

~10 yrs ago I ordered a Summitt house brand tchain set (SB) & it had ALOT of play

Seems to me its a hit or miss. You assume the block wasn't honed but don't know for sure. You can order another standard "quality" timing set but if it doesn't fit you're still stuck with it. The 1/2" slop is a LOT, even with a .005 over timing set you'll still have slop (assuming the block is the problem). Right now I'd suggest finding someone with a set lying around that's willing to let you try it. Also, if you go to Rollmaster's website http://www.romac.com.au/Tunnel_Bores.html they have a chart that will tell you how much of an oversize set you need based on the slack (assuming the set you're using to check it is new and is a standard size).

Cloyes, Rollmaster and JP Performance sell oversize sets. Cloyes is pricey.

Keep in mind that if you suspect your timing set is the issue and it is a Cloyes, you could try a new chain. The sprockets don't generally wear.

One thing you could try (I've never done this) is to assemble the set upside down on a bench and measure the distances between the outer edges of the i.d. of the crank sprocket and the cam register (maybe have someone stretch the chain tight while you measure). Then deduct half of the i.d. of both. This will give you the cam to crank centerline measurement of the timing set. Compare this to the stock measurement of 5.125" and that will tell you whether the culprit is the block or the timing set.

Oh, don't feel lonely ... I'm dealing with the same issue right now myself - waiting for the new oversize set to arrive from the JP Performance distributor!

The shop I used to work for would buy the PBM billet roller timing sets for small blocks and they always had play. I bought a rollmaster setup from Hughes and it was a pain to get the cam gear on the cam it was so tight. But once it was one, it was perfect. I know the PBM billet setup looks like a really good timing set, but they start loose. I think it's probably the same timing set most of the manufacturers use under their names so it is best to go with a well known, name brand.