Anyone read the article in oct 2011 Mopar Muscle called "ballast resistor guide, ballast blast off"
? Article states with stock electronic ignition you can do away with the ballast resistor. Any thoughts or experience?

i solderd in a #10 wire in the BR shell to hide the fact it is by-passed.

i run a full 12 volts to my pertronix points conversion and the 40,000 flamethrower coil.

not what your asking though

I have 12 yrs of MM,I have not read the last few,i best go catch up on the reading and check out the story

Scratchin, a friend of mine was having trouble with an msd box, well this past weekend he converted back to mopar performance orange box (brand new) and bypassed the coil and claims the car runs better than ever! Im just wondering if he is gonna burn something up, so thought I would see if anyone on here has long term experience? Thanks

I have read where it is done but never done it myself,only when i ditch that crap and run a points dist with a pertronix conversion.

to me its the best thing,i have never had to fool with it in 17 yrs and its been in 4-5 dists and 3-4 cars/trucks

revs till it floats the valves,fast starts,cap/wires/plugs for a tune up.

i ran mine with the BR for a couple yrs before someone said to by=pass it,i felt it in the seat dyno it had much better throttle responce with a smoother idle.

I think he will be ok with it by-passed as long as the coil is made to work with a full 12 volts...like a msd/pertronix/stocl electronis coil.

You need the BR for the mopar ignition box. It may be working for now, but i bet it will soon kill box. If your only drag racing, probably can get away with it.

The aftermarket boxes control the dwell time with their electronics, so they need full 12v to the coil. The Mopar box dosent control the dwell time, and needs the BR to limit current flow at low rpm.

I scratched my head when I read that MM article. Huh?

The factory bypasses the ballast when starting, for a hotter spark and a quicker start. You can also bypass the ballast in an WOT situation if you want. But it can burn out the coil or ignition box if done permanently. I'll admit I bypassed my ballast and had a coil take a dump, but it took a couple of years to happen, so YMMV.

Well I guess time will tell. It does run great however. I told him to keep a spare ecu and coil in the glovebox instead of always having a spare ballast. Thanks for the thoughts. Dan

I'd be more worried about the ECU than the coil. The transistor in the ECU carries the coil primary current load when the coil is on (dwell) Can it last with the increased current flow (caused by the increase in voltage to the coil primary)? Depends on the coil primary resistance........and of course your luck!

Here is a link http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techa..._off/index.html

..using the ballast will supply the coil with about 9 volts,and it's output will still be over 35,000 volts..this is plenty.
..you can run without your air cleaner too..but you wouldn't.