Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
#1150415
01/04/12 04:06 PM
01/04/12 04:06 PM
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YO7_A66
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On a Mopar style dual field alternator, what happens when you swap the field wires from the stock setup? The reason that I ask is because when I took my Mopar square back alternator (left below) into NAPA to have it tested, they tested it as the chart shown and it failed due to lack of voltage. Then I handed them my Powermaster (right below) unit and they hooked it up the same way as the square back and the machine told them to swap the field wires. Once they swapped the wires, then it tested PERFECT. I just received an email from Powermaster discussing my current ammeter/voltage guage fluctuating at idle and they are suggesting that I swap the field wires. Why would they suggest this and why did the PM alternator test fine at NAPA after they swapped the field wires? I have been running this alternator for a year now (wired like my stock unit) with no issues until a few weeks ago. I am just trying to understand the suggestion.
EDIT: This is the response from Powermaster as to why to reverse the field wires:
""All the field wires do is complete the circuit, so it shouldn't matter if you reverse them. It really shouldn't do anything different, but I've seen it work in cases like these. It could be a sign that the diodes are starting to go out, but I've also seen this work, and work for years.""
I have had more discussions with them and since the machine at NAPA said to reverse the field wires, he thinks that the diodes may be the issue even though the machine showed the alternator to be in perfect condition after the swap. I am going to swap the field wires and see if it makes a difference at idle. If it does, Powermaster will take it in for repair and return it to me as new condition. Even if swapping the wires does not work, I will probably send it to them anyway due to the NAPA machine test and I am not out any driving time due to our Winter weather.
Thanks
Last edited by YO7_A66; 01/04/12 05:30 PM.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: YO7_A66]
#1150417
01/04/12 08:38 PM
01/04/12 08:38 PM
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John_Kunkel
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Powermaster's observation is correct; if swapping the field wires changes the output, the alternator is faulty...even if it works that way.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1150419
01/04/12 10:16 PM
01/04/12 10:16 PM
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I always thought that they had to be a certain way too. I was really surprised when the NAPA guy had to turn them around to make the machine test it. I should have brought up the question then. If the output is the same on the car as it was on the machine, I am still going to get it repaired since it is just sitting in the garage for a few more months. thanks allot
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1150420
01/04/12 10:35 PM
01/04/12 10:35 PM
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MoparforLife
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Quote:
I had no idea that swapping the field wires affected anything
It doesn't.
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1150422
01/05/12 12:53 AM
01/05/12 12:53 AM
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NachoRT74
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one more to chime in to say
ITS THE SAME no matter what. If there was a diff, you'll have some label at housing, or some ANTI IDIOT connector at brushes
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1150423
01/05/12 01:27 AM
01/05/12 01:27 AM
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Joined: Apr 2007
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a12rag
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Guys . . .remember that the field is setting up a magnetic field that the rotor (connected to the shaft which is turned by the belt) moves around. It needs a ground connection and positive connection. The voltage regulator senses the output voltage and varies the amount of voltage and current going to the field.
The stator is the stationary coil of wire around the outside of the rotor. As the rotor turns, the magnetic field induces current in the stator wires - although it is producing alternating current (AC, which goes positive and then negative, just like in the house), in what is called 3 phase (house is single phase).
Since the current is alternating between negative and positive, you have to use diodes to rectify the current into DC (direct current) that is used in the car. With 3 phases, you need 3 positive and 3 negative diodes. When you combine the output of each 3 diode sets, you then have 12volt DC current output from the alternator. This is a more efficient producer of electrical energy than a generator - i.e. it puts out current at low rpm (like at idle), that is why it was a standard years ago.
So with the single wire field alternator, one of the field connections was directly connected to ground and the other to positive from the voltage regulator.
For the dual wire field alternator, one wire (positive) is connected to the ignition circuit, and then the other wire is connected to the voltage regulator - which then varies the amount of current via resistance to ground.
You can test your alternator yourself (briefly), by putting battery positive to the field wire from the alternator (usually a blue with white tracer) and then ground the other field terminal. You should see FULL output and charging on your ammeter (if you still have one) . . . . if this is the case, then you have a bad regulator. If not, then get another alternator. Needless to say, this is with the engine running.
I have also heard of taking a screwdriver (metal one) and holding it to the back of the alternator, where the rear bearing is. If it is held in place, then the alternator is working, as a magnetic field is present from the rotor.
So the back to the question at hand - why would reversing the field wires on the test stand make a difference ??? You are basically causing the rotation of the magnetic field to be set up 180 degrees out - doesn't matter much as you are rectifying the AC signal back to DC through the diodes, however, you are getting one set of diodes working before the others. But it really doesn't matter, so long as you have output from the alternator
Hope that makes it all clear as mud . . .
Cheers
Mark
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: 63stabamatic]
#1150425
01/05/12 09:55 AM
01/05/12 09:55 AM
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YO7_A66
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"" I agree, swapping the field wires should make no difference if the alternator is working correctly.""
I think that "WORKING CORRECTLY" is the key.
I witnessed what the test machine had the operator change to make the alternator test correctly. Since the alternator tested good after the field wire swap on the machine, I am assuming that since I have already swapped the field wires (temporary jumpers) that the next time I start up the engine, the ammeter/battery volt gauge may not show the bouncing issue.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: MoparforLife]
#1150427
01/05/12 02:22 PM
01/05/12 02:22 PM
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NachoRT74
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no matter the fields order, as far you get magnetic field inside. Then stator captures the sine power ( alternate power ) and diodes bank takes the sine section variation what it cares ( positive section or negative section of the sine ) to feed the + and - busses ( stud or chassis ) No matter with section of the sine signal it happens first
so no matter either the rotor direction as stated, the important thing here is create the magnetic field at rotor
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1150428
01/05/12 02:28 PM
01/05/12 02:28 PM
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YO7_A66
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Lets say that the alternator does work correctly after swapping the field wires (as shown on the test machine), would you send it in to be rebuilt or see how long it runs? Thanks allot for the replies.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: YO7_A66]
#1150429
01/05/12 02:34 PM
01/05/12 02:34 PM
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NachoRT74
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if is in guarantee I will give to manufacturer. No headaches about something recently paid.
since I'm overseas, send to manufacturer IS THE HEADACHE so I would take care by myself.
soooo, all depends on your position
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1150431
01/05/12 02:45 PM
01/05/12 02:45 PM
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I am just outside of the warranty period but the manufacturer said that they would cover labor and if parts were minimal, they would take care of that too and retest it and send it back to me as new. This is why I am leaning towards sending it back and just waiting for the rebuild rather than taking my chances during my driving season. PM said that they have seen the wires swapped and then ran for years, but I am not that confident on electrical parts these days. I have had toooo many new electrical parts failures in the last year. (Powermaster Alternator, FBO ignition box, Mallory E-coil, and a FAST wideband controller (twice) all in the last year. These are some big names in the industry and I alone have had these failures.)
I will be able to have the dash back in this weekend (headlight switch issue) and then I will retest the alternator.
Cab, I removed both field wire connectors due to loose connections and replaced them with new connectors and squeezed the female ends until both were very snug. thanks Thanks again.
Last edited by YO7_A66; 01/05/12 02:59 PM.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1150432
01/05/12 02:56 PM
01/05/12 02:56 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
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Quote:
I see one thing missed on this dicsusion, you have two different field feeds, maybe one of them has a problem on it in the connectors or corrosion or I have seen a bad connector on one of the the feild input wires (It had broken most of the wires at the connector, maybe it had one or two still flowing current, not the entire bunch of wires like it should have been) cause charging problems. The feed wires are 18 gauge if I'm remembering correctly I replaced that connector and it got ALL BETTER Lots of gremlins out there of all kinds for Murphy to use to test us against our troubling shooting skills
I told him by email couple of days ago ( he contacted me ) that it could be one of the brushes making bad contact with rotor trace. Some overheat could melt partially the brush isolator and make an erratic brush contact OR a rotor axle play or bad setting making warp the isolator so then getting stuck the brush inside the isolator. That it happened to me twice with the vertical brush. Thas is a BIG posibility.
BTW, being out of warranty I will fix by myself FIRST. Fortunatelly alternators are cheap and easy fix.
I would begin checking the brushes isolators AND isolation. The psoition where the ammeter senses spikes could be that BY CASUALITY the wire with ground is being plugged on a bad isolator getting then full negative field. And when conecting positive there maybe is not bad enough to cause a short ?
You tell me about bad electronic quality controls... 2 MP chromed ECU boxes, One Ready to run MSD dist ( of a friend of mine ) what was sent for fix to MSD ( overseas ) and returned BAD again... etc...
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: YO7_A66]
#1150433
01/06/12 12:07 AM
01/06/12 12:07 AM
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denfireguy
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If the machine knows the wires are backwards, there almost has to be a short to ground somewhere. The machine applies 12 volts to the field on one wire and grounds the other. If there was a short, the logic in the tester would see that short and assume the person hooking it up did it wrong. When he reverses it, the shorted field connection is now hooked to the machines ground. The logic now sees a complete circuit with a good ground and less current draw on the 12V feed. Machine is happy, the alternator tests good. Unfortunately, because of the internal short, it will not work right in the car going to full output at all times. Powerquest is right, the alternator is bad and as I suspected, the parts store testers do not fully test dual field alternators.
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1150435
01/06/12 12:55 PM
01/06/12 12:55 PM
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NachoRT74
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talking about what I was told about the brush isolator melted getting stuck the brush... found a malfunction on my alt and look what I found:
( after fix this, mounted back the alt, worked great for 10 minutes and broken again... the rotor went bad. It's open. )
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: denfireguy]
#1150436
01/06/12 05:34 PM
01/06/12 05:34 PM
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YO7_A66
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""The machine applies 12 volts to the field on one wire and grounds the other. If there was a short, the logic in the tester would see that short and assume the person hooking it up did it wrong. When he reverses it, the shorted field connection is now hooked to the machines ground. The logic now sees a complete circuit with a good ground and less current draw on the 12V feed. Machine is happy, the alternator tests good. Unfortunately, because of the internal short, it will not work right in the car going to full output at all times. Powermaster is right, the alternator is bad and as I suspected, the parts store testers do not fully test dual field alternators. ""
Excellent description. Thank you.
I have already made arrangements with Powermaster and the alternator is going back next week for a full test and rebuild. Thank you to all.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: denfireguy]
#1150437
01/07/12 06:03 PM
01/07/12 06:03 PM
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""Unfortunately, because of the internal short, it will not work right in the car going to full output at all times.""
I swapped the field wires to see if the ammeter/voltage guage changed, and as mentioned above, it acted the same with the wires swapped. The alternator is off and in a box waiting to be shipped back for repair. Thanks again to all.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: YO7_A66]
#1150439
01/19/12 08:34 AM
01/19/12 08:34 AM
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YO7_A66
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The alternator is currently at Powermaster and they have been testing it and they can not make it fail.
Review: The test machine at NAPA told the technician to reverse the field wires to be able to complete the test. My ammeter fluctuates at idle and up to about 1500rpms, then it smooths out after 1500rpms. It did not do this until my last drive of the season. My system voltage jumps back and fourth from 13-15 volts while the ammeter is fluctuating. A new voltage regulator showed the same results.
I am trying to give them all of my info so they can keep checking it but I am not sure what else to tell them before they try and send it back to me. Is there another type of voltage regulator that I can test? My current two are the NAPA brand. I do have a Chrysler BLUE (constant output) regulator that I could test if needed.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1150441
01/19/12 10:37 AM
01/19/12 10:37 AM
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YO7_A66
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They just told me that they are getting constant voltage output with the field wires wired per stock. They are swapping the field wiring to see if they can get the voltage to start fluctuating.
Thanks
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: BigTerry]
#1150443
01/19/12 12:38 PM
01/19/12 12:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200 Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
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Quote:
wouldn't changing the field wires change the polarity of the voltage? + to -?
no
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: BigTerry]
#1150444
01/19/12 12:50 PM
01/19/12 12:50 PM
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NachoRT74
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wires to brushes gives fields to create ALTERNATED CURRENT ( hence the alternator name ) by sine waves produced by the + and - fluctuations when rotor spins, creating magnetic fields what stator captures. Then Diodes hooked up to stator take care of take the correct polarity of the waves to stud and chassis, becoming on DC ( direct current )
since we are talking about - and + fluctuations on sine wave, doens't really matter what happens first on the sine wave, if - or + section of the wave.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: Sparky77]
#1150446
01/19/12 02:22 PM
01/19/12 02:22 PM
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I am afraid that they are not going to find anything wrong and then I am back to step one on trying to figure out what is causing the ammeter/voltage fluctuations.
If it does come back with no issues, then I am planning on pulling one fuse at a time while watching the ammeter/voltage gauge to see if I can locate a circuit that clears it up. I was also thinking of buying a cheap stock alternator to test on the car too to see if there is any change. Thanks for the replies.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: Sparky77]
#1150448
01/19/12 04:12 PM
01/19/12 04:12 PM
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Sparky, The VR is bolted into the firewall in the stock location. Both of the mounting bolts have ground wires going to different grounds in the engine compartment. I can take a voltmeter and put the "+" lead on the "+" battery post and the "-" lead on either one of the VR mounting screws or the VR ground strap (just below the connector), and I get a battery reading. Thank you for the reply.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1150449
01/19/12 04:23 PM
01/19/12 04:23 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
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denfireguy
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Quote:
wires to brushes gives fields to create ALTERNATED CURRENT ( hence the alternator name ) by sine waves produced by the + and - fluctuations when rotor spins, creating magnetic fields what stator captures. Then Diodes hooked up to stator take care of take the correct polarity of the waves to stud and chassis, becoming on DC ( direct current )
since we are talking about - and + fluctuations on sine wave, doens't really matter what happens first on the sine wave, if - or + section of the wave.
Exactly right. Except in Australia where the car keeps trying to drive on the wrong side of the road and the fields should be changed. Seriously, even if you turned the alternator backwards, the full wave rectifier bank will produce the proper voltage polarity.
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: denfireguy]
#1150450
01/19/12 09:26 PM
01/19/12 09:26 PM
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YO7_A66
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My dash lights and my dome lights are fluctuating with the ammeter/voltage gage. Would the dash voltage regulator affect the ammeter/battery voltage reading if it was bad? What about a bad battery?
Thanks again. Just thinking out loud.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#1150451
01/20/12 10:41 AM
01/20/12 10:41 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688 Marlboro, NY, USA
Rick_Ehrenberg
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Quote:
Powermaster's observation is correct; if swapping the field wires changes the output, the alternator is faulty...even if it works that way.
Exactly. That would be conclusive proof of field-coils(rotating)-to-ground current leakage.
This kind of stuff shows up more and more as the "cores" get older. Good rebuilders use an instrument called a Hi-pot to check for leakage, but don't count on that.
This is why the all-new alternators, even though Chinese, are probably a better bet (Autozone Duralast Gold, etc.)
Rick
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: 68HemiB]
#1150453
01/20/12 01:37 PM
01/20/12 01:37 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,561 Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick
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Quote:
Quote:
Maybe Moparts member 68HemiB will chime in, he's an xpert on "dual field" alternators and their inner workings
I know it's been almost two weeks, but I cannot let Mike down on this point.
Most knowledgeable folks on moparts will cringe when they see someone use the term posi when applied to a limited-slip differential installed in a Mopar.
Well, it's like fingers on a chalkboard to me when I read "dual field". An ISOLATED FIELD alternator as is being discussed here might have two field connections, but there is but a single field circuit inside the alternator.
Please stop it, everyone.
Kevin
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: Twostick]
#1150454
01/20/12 02:40 PM
01/20/12 02:40 PM
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YO7_A66
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If Powermaster tells me that their final tests show that it is a good alternator, should I look for another alternator? This one is out of warranty by about 6 months. Thanks a bunch!!
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: YO7_A66]
#1150455
01/20/12 03:08 PM
01/20/12 03:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347 Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT
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Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field,Dual Field....
"The Armies of our ancestors were lucky, in that they were not trailed by a second army of pencil pushers."
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: 68HemiB]
#1150459
01/21/12 02:23 AM
01/21/12 02:23 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157 Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Well, it's like fingers on a chalkboard to me when I read "dual field".
Please stop it, everyone.
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: YO7_A66]
#1150460
01/21/12 09:49 AM
01/21/12 09:49 AM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154 bethlehem pa
mikemee1331
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154
bethlehem pa
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Quote:
My dash lights and my dome lights are fluctuating with the ammeter/voltage gage. Would the dash voltage regulator affect the ammeter/battery voltage reading if it was bad?
that's a good thought as far as the flickering lights go as they are all tied together. if you have a spare it couldn't hurt to test it out.
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: mikemee1331]
#1150461
01/21/12 11:49 AM
01/21/12 11:49 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443 Indiana
YO7_A66
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443
Indiana
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Thanks Mike. I was not sure if the dome and the dash lights were on the same circuit or not. It sounds like Powermaster did not find any issues and they said that it is a common problem that the parts store tester did what it did. They are going to send me another alternator even though mine tested fine. They have been good to work with. Thanks again.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: YO7_A66]
#1150462
01/21/12 02:29 PM
01/21/12 02:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200 Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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Quote:
Thanks Mike. I was not sure if the dome and the dash lights were on the same circuit or not. It sounds like Powermaster did not find any issues and they said that it is a common problem that the parts store tester did what it did. They are going to send me another alternator even though mine tested fine. They have been good to work with. Thanks again.
Which means that they found a problem but they don't want to tell you about it so they are covering it by sending out a different unit. Kind of tells you what they have invested inthe product, don't it.
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: MoparforLife]
#1150463
01/23/12 08:49 AM
01/23/12 08:49 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443 Indiana
YO7_A66
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443
Indiana
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I just got another email from Powermaster stating that they will put all new internals into my existing case. They are covering it even though I am 6 months out of warranty. I just need to pay for shipping. I am surprised that they are gutting it completely if they found nothing wrong. But, I am happy that they are replacing the unit. Hopefully this will fix my fluctuating ammeter/system voltage at idle. Thanks again for the replies.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Dual Field Alternator: Swapping the Field Wires
[Re: YO7_A66]
#1150464
01/23/12 10:14 AM
01/23/12 10:14 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200 Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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Quote:
I just got another email from Powermaster stating that they will put all new internals into my existing case. They are covering it even though I am 6 months out of warranty. I just need to pay for shipping. I am surprised that they are gutting it completely if they found nothing wrong. But, I am happy that they are replacing the unit. Hopefully this will fix my fluctuating ammeter/system voltage at idle. Thanks again for the replies.
Read my post right above this.
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