I've bead basted my power brake cannister, in an attempt to make it look like someone likes it. I'd like to bring it back to it's org. Cad. color, but what to do. I'm thinking of powder coating it, but I don't know if I'll like that either. How can I Cad. coat it again?

Im sure the carb guys will be able to suggest something but I dont know of anything to simulate cadium. I know eastwood sells something but I really dont know anyone thats tried it.

I've heard good things about the Eastwood stuff.

http://www.eastwood.com/new-golden-cad-system-w-diamond-clear.html

I don't have any experience with it though...

I used the Eastwood silver cad on a hood catch. First coat was their etching primer then the silver cad. It have been surprised how well it is holding up.

I kinda avoid powder coat on anything that has to be assembled. The thick coating reduces strength and durability of any bolted joint. Even with paint, I'd keep it real light where the MC bolts on.

You should be able to find a commercial company that does Cad coating in your area. I have a friend here that owns a Cad coating company and he can do all sorts of colors..

I've never seen a powdercoat or paint system that really mimics CAD plating. CAD plating, as people generally refer to it, is usually CAD with brightener and a gold conversion coat. CAD plating can actually take on several looks depending on the use of brighteners or not, and the color of the conversion coat used (clear, clear blue, yellow, olive drap, . . . ).
The chemicals you need to mimic any of these finishes can be found at Caswell Plating using the "Copy CAD' system. Since the EPA would frown on doing CAD plating from your home the system uses zinc as an alternative. I find that 99.9% of people cant tell the difference between brightened zinc with a yellow conversion coat and bright CAD with a yellow conversion coat, and that only 1 woman I work with (now retired) could do so with any reliability. It does take a small investment, research and a little trial and error, but the results can be outstanding.
I've attached a picture to give you an idea what type of results can be achieved and could answer questions if you need help. you can check out my Flickr page that shows the basic setup in a couple pictures, but has since expanded slightly.
Also, most industries have converted from bright gold CAD to bright gold zinc (except for aviation) and people don't see the difference. Zinc corrosion protection is only slightly lower than CAD with the real protection coming from the conversion coat on the surface.

Once setup you'll be set for a lifetime of restorations and continual touch-ups as pieces need to be refinished.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/65829813@N02/

Thanks AAR#2.
Looks like what I need. I had trouble going through the web site though. Got regestered OK but I guess it takes time to process. I'll contact them tomorrow by phone. I want to get one of their kits, didn't see a price though.

Price will depend on the size of the kit, remember you'll need the trivalent yellow chromate and you'll need to build or buy a rectifier. I built one for about $60. I swear by the versatility once your setup because I can plate a lot or as little as needed, but if you only have one item and never plan to do any other plating it may be easier and cheaper to go to a plating shop. Most have minimum lot runs but you get to drop off and pick up. If you go this route instead of asking for CAD plating you should be able to find several local shops capable of doing bright zinc with yellow chromate. Ask to see samples, this will ensure your happy with the end item. Using zinc rather than CAD will save $$ and like I said, most will never be able to tell the difference.