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I have not tried a standard light but the motor runs like crapt above 1600rpms. If it is just the light, then it will still run like crapt above 1600rpms. This is why I think that the timing is advancing too much causing it to run like this.
I will try and track down a standard light.
What if there is enough differences between the FBO box and the MSD box and the 54 degrees that I am seeing is actually correct? I did not move the distributor during this swap and I assumed that I would not have to just in a box swap. What if I am wrong about that?

You did talk me into swapping the wires and I am glad that you did. I think that I had the wires wrong on the new connector that I added and I had electrical tape covering them so I did not see it before today. I will check my alternator wires.

Thank you both.

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For the time being... look at this as 2 separate
problems... fix the timing then go back to the
gauge issue... the gauge issue could be as simple as
a voltage regulator or a diode in the alt

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I have not tried a standard light but the motor runs like crapt above 1600rpms. If it is just the light, then it will still run like crapt above 1600rpms. This is why I think that the timing is advancing too much causing it to run like this.
I will try and track down a standard light.
What if there is enough differences between the FBO box and the MSD box and the 54 degrees that I am seeing is actually correct? I did not move the distributor during this swap and I assumed that I would not have to just in a box swap. What if I am wrong about that?

You did talk me into swapping the wires and I am glad that you did. I think that I had the wires wrong on the new connector that I added and I had electrical tape covering them so I did not see it before today. I will check my alternator wires.

Thank you both.

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For the time being... look at this as 2 separate
problems... fix the timing then go back to the
gauge issue... the gauge issue could be as simple as
a voltage regulator or a diode in the alt

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I am using Firecore wires so I assume that these are good. Maybe the voltage issue is what is causing the engine to run poorly the higher I rev it?

I may pull the alternator and the voltage regulator and have them tested. But I will check the wiring to both first.

thanks

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I think of it the other way... too high of timing
will cause it to break up at higher revs OR its
starting to cross fire... get the timing set at about
34 to 36 degrees total(and you shouldnt need 25
initial) about 16-18 then the rest with mechanical
then more with vac for cruising

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Mr P:
I believe that you wrote that this is the light that you are currently using?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLA-FR1001/

I am going to return my second dial back and if this is a known good timing light, then I will swap my current unit for this one.

Thanks

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Yes thats the light I use now days and of all the
lights I own I like that one best... just slide it
over the wire and your done

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The 12v MSD wire is fed from my dark blue RUN and the tan CRANK wire and my volt gauge is also spliced into this area.

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hmmmmm................

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My heavy red wire is on the positive battery cable. Thanks.

I have an UPDATE:
I swapped the distributor wires (again) and I used my new advanced light (Thanks Mr. P) and I now have good initial timing again. It showed 22 degrees with the new light. So the ECU swap to the MSD only changed by 2 degrees. COOL!! Thank you all for your patience on that one.

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Even though I found the loose connector at the altenator, my ammeter is still bouncing around at idle the same as before (just left of straight up to the middle of the +). But, the two voltage gages are now showing 14v +/- 1/2 volt. So the volt gages cleaned up allot (still jumping at idle rpms from 13.5 to about 14.5) but still not as solid as before. At 1400rpms the ammeter and both guages are solid.

Note: After I was done, I shut the car off and put the battery charger on the battery and it started at 75% and went to 100% within a minute or two.

Any suggestions on the electrical issue?

Thanks again for your patience.

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Change your regulator

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My heavy red wire is on the positive battery cable. Thanks.

I have an UPDATE:
I swapped the distributor wires (again) and I used my new advanced light (Thanks Mr. P) and I now have good initial timing again. It showed 22 degrees with the new light. So the ECU swap to the MSD only changed by 2 degrees. COOL!! Thank you all for your patience on that one.

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Even though I found the loose connector at the altenator, my ammeter is still bouncing around at idle the same as before (just left of straight up to the middle of the +). But, the two voltage gages are now showing 14v +/- 1/2 volt. So the volt gages cleaned up allot (still jumping at idle rpms from 13.5 to about 14.5) but still not as solid as before. At 1400rpms the ammeter and both guages are solid.

Note: After I was done, I shut the car off and put the battery charger on the battery and it started at 75% and went to 100% within a minute or two.

Any suggestions on the electrical issue?

Thanks again for your patience.

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sweet! now i don't feel like a D-bag for tell you how great MSD ign's are