I recently bought the Harbor Freight tool mentioned in the first response to this post.

It worked like a charm and was cheaper than buying an 8" vise just to replace u-joints. My 6" vise was too small.

The u-joints I removed had been in the car at least 20 years and beating on them with a hammer wasn't getting me anywhere. I figured I was probably just going to damage the ears on the drive shaft.

If a vise isn't handy, a large C-clamp and assorted old sockets also work like a charm.

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If a vise isn't handy, a large C-clamp and assorted old sockets also work like a charm.

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I tried the c-clamp method as well, but mine were so stuck the c-clamp started to deform.

The Harbor Freight tool is basically nothing but a REALLY beefy c-clamp with a threaded rod sized for a 1-inch socket. I had to use a breaker bar on mine to push the old joints out.

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If a vise isn't handy, a large C-clamp and assorted old sockets also work like a charm.

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I take them out with a hammer and put them in with the c clamp. Works fine for me. Mike

Quote: I figured I was probably just going to damage the ears on the drive shaft.

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I remove and install with a hammer.
You're more apt to damage the ears on the yoke with a vice or a press than a hammer.... I learned how easy and superior it is to do it this way when I worked in a driveline shop. The only thing I use the vice for is to support the yoke , shaft or joint between the jaws while knocking out the joint. Just make sure you hammer on the weld yoke and not the driveshaft tube! I've seen SO many driveshaft yokes ruined by people using presses and vices and just forcing the caps in!

when you get the new one in it must turn free & you need to be able to rock it back & forth with your hand.lay the shaft on the ground with a socket under the ear on the bottom & rap the ear on top just behind the ujoint cap with a BFH then flip it 180 & do the other.2 or 3 times each side. Frees them up perfectly.