Re: POWER TO MANUAL STEERING IN STREET/STRIP GTX?
[Re: Labratt]
#1104450
10/31/11 12:20 PM
10/31/11 12:20 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 614 Michigan
Get-X
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 614
Michigan
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I used the same adapter as Ron and Preddy, works great. I personally just bought a used box from a member here on Moparts (thanks Mike!) that came with the box in great shape, pitman arm and drag link with the idler still there and the mounting bolts for $100! The production boxes are feather light and wear like iron.
'65 Belvedere '68 GTX '57 Dodge pickup
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Re: POWER TO MANUAL STEERING IN STREET/STRIP GTX?
[Re: PorkyPig]
#1104453
10/31/11 03:24 PM
10/31/11 03:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421 Balt. Md
383man
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
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Actually I was surprised at how easy my 63 steers. It is much easier then I thought it would be and I like the manual steering as you can feel the road better. The only time you need to use 2 hands on my 63 is when parallel parking. But it really is so easy to steer. Ron
Last edited by 383man; 10/31/11 03:25 PM.
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Re: POWER TO MANUAL STEERING IN STREET/STRIP GTX?
[Re: Get-X]
#1104456
10/31/11 05:59 PM
10/31/11 05:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,907 S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,907
S.E. Michigan
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I've got the same adapter setup, only mine is the goofy older one that was originally used on a B van, that you had to use a manual coupler with. That was before Mancini made their version, with the power coupler spline setup. That stuff was alot more difficult to find before the internet! As a result of getting that, I bought a few nos manual couplers for spares, figuring nobody would reproduce them. The box is a good used one that I think I got at the Nats about a million years ago.
Rich H.
Esse Quam Videri
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Re: POWER TO MANUAL STEERING IN STREET/STRIP GTX?
[Re: ZIPPY]
#1104457
10/31/11 06:48 PM
10/31/11 06:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,182 Plymouth, MI
Blusmbl
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,182
Plymouth, MI
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Used is fine, I swapped to one in my Charger and had no objections at all to how it steered, I liked it over the overboosted power assist they came with stock.
I had an A-body box and Mancini coupler, just have to swap the pitman arm, and I also thought the A-body piece uses bushings instead of bearings, but don't quote me on that.
'18 Ford Raptor, random motorcycles, 1968 Plymouth Fury III - 11.37 @ 118
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Re: POWER TO MANUAL STEERING IN STREET/STRIP GTX?
[Re: Labratt]
#1104461
11/02/11 01:56 AM
11/02/11 01:56 AM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 540 murfreesboro, TN
Qbird
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 540
murfreesboro, TN
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The adapter thing is a total scam. I've taken several power and manual steering columns apart over the years, and the internal shaft (sliding part) is THE SAME! Chrysler used "plastic rivets" to create just enough drag on the sliding part of the shaft to keep it from flopping around while being handeled on the assembly line. Those rivets don't penetrate the sliding shaft at all...they just poke through holes and rub against it. If you take a P/S steering shaft, and pull the center all the way out, it would actually touch the steering box itself, and STILL have 100% engagement with outer, or driving part of the shaft.
Last edited by Qbird; 11/02/11 02:01 AM.
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Re: POWER TO MANUAL STEERING IN STREET/STRIP GTX?
[Re: Qbird]
#1104462
11/02/11 09:40 AM
11/02/11 09:40 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,401 Wi.
old_racer
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,401
Wi.
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Quote:
The adapter thing is a total scam. I've taken several power and manual steering columns apart over the years, and the internal shaft (sliding part) is THE SAME! Chrysler used "plastic rivets" to create just enough drag on the sliding part of the shaft to keep it from flopping around while being handeled on the assembly line. Those rivets don't penetrate the sliding shaft at all...they just poke through holes and rub against it. If you take a P/S steering shaft, and pull the center all the way out, it would actually touch the steering box itself, and STILL have 100% engagement with outer, or driving part of the shaft.
this may be true but the splines on the manual box are different than the p/box so the coupler still needs to be changed.
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