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Thermoquad secondary tuning? #1100945
10/24/11 06:45 PM
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ragtop Offline OP
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What is the effect of the secondary air door drop amount? What I am referring to, is the amount that the air door opens initially, when the throttle is slammed open all the way. This amount can be adjusted anywhere from no opening to approx .180. This adjustment is made via the choke pull off linkage bending. My question is, what are the effects of a zero opening verses a .180 opening when the throttle is slammed open from idle? How does it effect initial bog off the line? If it matters, my car is a stock Challenger 340, with stock cam and ported stock heads. Thanks.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: ragtop] #1100946
10/24/11 07:11 PM
10/24/11 07:11 PM
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kilroy Offline
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I know that demonsizzler says that some bogs cannot be tuned away unless the air door is tight against stop. He was right. Aluminum headed 440 with 250* duration, I had it gapped at .040 according to the rebuild and had to readjust mine tight even after tightening the airdoor to get rid of slight secondary hesitation.. Would like more info also.


1973 Charger, former SE, former auto

I'm not trying to be difficult, it comes naturally....
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: ragtop] #1100947
10/24/11 07:33 PM
10/24/11 07:33 PM
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There is also the choke pull-off. I had to put TWO restrictors in the line on mine to delay the opening.

I have a healthy street 440 with a short gear .... 2.76. But when the secondaires DO come-in ....

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: ragtop] #1100948
10/26/11 08:21 PM
10/26/11 08:21 PM
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kilroy Offline
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Since this was not touched on again Ill take another shot. The timing is about initiation of air\flow into the ventures' which starts the fuel flowing out of the boosters. My theory is by making it tighter (or slower acting with restrictors like Doc F) you are allowing the engine speed to come up more before the air door flops open creating the lean spot or possible over rich spot (??). Where as if you set it up like the factor with .1 to .3 of clearance the door is allowing air to begin flowing which pulls the door open immediately (kinda like a door in the house that is shut wont let air through, but if the door is cracked open a little and another door opens somewhere else in the house the pressure drop and air flow through the house either slams/flings open the door)


1973 Charger, former SE, former auto

I'm not trying to be difficult, it comes naturally....
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: kilroy] #1100949
02/27/12 09:28 PM
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Dave Watt Offline
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The factory setting is to adjust the secondary air door up until it just touches the stop. Then rotate 1.5 turns more on the spring.
Are you guys suggesting not even having the door against the stop in the first place?
I've tried every setting on the secondary door, the metering rods, and drilled out some squirters to .026", .028" and .031". Nothing will cure the bog at the hit of the throttle.
Two different distributors too.
Jetting is good at wide open throttle through a 1/4 mile pass.

Last edited by Dave Watt; 02/27/12 09:30 PM.
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100950
02/27/12 11:23 PM
02/27/12 11:23 PM
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The bog is usually the flapper door opening too soon. It snaps open before the carb can start drawing fuel and you get a lean bog. Like suggested higher up in this thread, sometimes you have to make that choke pull-off open slower. Adjusting the tension on the flapper door spring does not have th same affect.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #1100951
02/28/12 04:50 PM
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Unless the sec air door spring is a new replacement {NOT} try running the sec to 2 to 2.5 turns this is due to the spring being weaker with age Carefully do this and the bog should be gone if there is no other cause for it. If all else fails get a Mopar Q jet of a 80s truck they work a lot better then most people will admit

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Paul_Fancsali] #1100952
02/28/12 06:14 PM
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Dave Watt Offline
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It's a new spring with the rebuild kit.
I've tried 1.5 all the way to 3.5 turns in .5 turn increments.
I'm stuck with the Thermoquad for the Pure Stock Muscle Car Drag Race rules, it must be stock.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100953
02/28/12 07:43 PM
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Check with Scott @ Harm's . . . he rebuilds the TQ and they not only look great, but work great too . . .

I have only ever rebuilt my TQ to factory settings, on factory 360 and 440 cars. Both worked great ! . . . just my two cents worth . . .

Cheers

Mark

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: a12rag] #1100954
02/28/12 09:37 PM
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kilroy Offline
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Im NOT talking about WINDING the secondary spring door, Im talking about bending the choke pull-off to the air door as shown in this figure.

After establishing about 1.5 -2 turns on the spring tension then bend this rod for this clearance. I think you'll find this is the cure; and only then play with spring tension and door stop to tune the fuel curve and the actuation of the air door.

Ive tried to 0.040 clearance like it says, but on my big cam I have to run it tight against the stop as was suggested by tuners to me.

If you need the complete instructions Ill email my complete pdf of the manual.

7095222-TQadjustment.png (558 downloads)
Last edited by kilroy; 03/25/12 10:44 AM.

1973 Charger, former SE, former auto

I'm not trying to be difficult, it comes naturally....
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: kilroy] #1100955
02/28/12 09:48 PM
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kilroy Offline
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Also, this is a great thread on tuning.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...&PHPSESSID=

Here is a short version where I learn the last trick I mentions.


1973 Charger, former SE, former auto

I'm not trying to be difficult, it comes naturally....
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: kilroy] #1100956
02/28/12 10:16 PM
02/28/12 10:16 PM
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oberlin, Ohio
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Three things I would be experimenting with on the carb in addition to the initial opening gap and accel pump size size (once you have ignition timing close and you determine the linkage is working right).


1) Richen secondary jetting and set open airdoor angle to stock or a little tigher than stock. If you have blocked manifold heat and are running pump gas you will need to step up secondary jetting as well as primary. I would consider going straight to a .149 sec jet to start with. A wide band A/F meter is really useful here.

2) Choke pull-off orifice size (fill it in with jbweld and drill out in steps, starting with a much smaller than stock size) It may be easier to install a different orifice restriction in the vac hose going to the pulloff. I have seen some manual trans pulloffs with an orifice so small you can barely see it.

3) Air door tension (this is not as critcal as one and two, start with 2 turns and change in steps of .25. I dont think you need to go less than 1.5 turns or more than 2.5)

If you get stuck PM me and maybe we can talk by phone.



1971 Factory Appearing Duster 340 11.000 @ 122 mph
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: kilroy] #1100957
02/29/12 01:37 PM
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Dave Watt Offline
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Great info guys.
Last night I worked with the choke pulloff adjustments as suggested earlier, but it still had a bog and would occasionally backfire.

Kilroy, I have those instructions but missed the .040" opening adjustment. This makes more sense now. I'll get it pulling in, then make the .040" adjustment from there.

Rapid, I'm already at .101" and .149" jetting. It looks good on the A/F meter and checking the plugs after a run.
I didn't realize there were different orifice sizes on the pull offs, I just grabbed one that pulled vacuum, time to look for ID numbers.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Rapid340] #1100958
02/29/12 07:30 PM
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Quote:


2) Choke pull-off orifice size (fill it in with jbweld and drill out in steps, starting with a much smaller than stock size) It may be easier to install a different orifice restriction in the vac hose going to the pulloff. I have seen some manual trans pulloffs with an orifice so small you can barely see it.





Tried the pull-off air door setting at .040", didn't help.
The current pull-off orifice size is .025". My parts carbs have .028", .031" and .033". I'll have to look at the '72 340 manual carb also. I can easily make restrictors out of nylon rod that are the same outside diameter at the pull-off.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100959
02/29/12 09:16 PM
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kilroy Offline
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I had to run mine tight against the housing stop, not at .040 as suggested; even at 0.040 I had a bog. I know some are run as loose as .100.

Let me ask you what your carbs 4 digit id #?

Last edited by kilroy; 02/29/12 09:19 PM.

1973 Charger, former SE, former auto

I'm not trying to be difficult, it comes naturally....
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: kilroy] #1100960
02/29/12 10:37 PM
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Mine is a 6319s, correct for a '73 340 Auto.

Installed a restrictor in the choke pull-off that I drilled to .0135", too small to pull vacuum. Went up to .016". No more bog. The tires spin instantly at the hit of the throttle.
Now a new problem has shown up. As the car gets rolling through first gear, the engine feels as though the carb is either way too rich or way too lean, kind of shuddering. Eventually it gets better after shifting into second. Spark plugs checked good.
I adjusted the amount of opening on the air door but didn't help the higher RPM situation. I'll hook up the Air/Fuel meter to see what's up. Might have to back the jetting off now just to see if it helps.
I'll have to work on it another day.

Last edited by Dave Watt; 03/01/12 10:22 PM.
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100961
03/01/12 09:22 AM
03/01/12 09:22 AM
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Quote:

The current pull-off orifice size is .025". My parts carbs have .028", .031" and .033". I'll have to look at the '72 340 manual carb also. I can easily make restrictors out of nylon rod that are the same outside diameter at the pull-off.




How does one determine this orifice size? Photo?


Quote:

I installed a restrictor in the choke pull-off that's drilled to .013".
No more bog. The tires spin instantly at the hit of the throttle.
Now a new problem has shown up.




Did you make this restrictor? Picture?


DynoDave
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Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: ragtop] #1100962
03/01/12 09:32 AM
03/01/12 09:32 AM
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This is why I love Moparts.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: DynoDave] #1100963
03/01/12 11:19 AM
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Quote:

How does one determine this orifice size? Photo?



I have a tiny drill bit set that is #61 (.039") through #80 (.0135"). Some hobby shops have them. Just keep inserting a drill in the orifice hole until you get to a drill big enough that it won't go in anymore. No photo, sorry. I'll try the next time I work on it.

Quote:

Did you make this restrictor? Picture?



I found a 3/16" diameter plastic rod, drilled a .016" hole in the middle, then inserted it in the vacuum line.

Last edited by Dave Watt; 03/01/12 10:25 PM.
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100964
03/01/12 04:51 PM
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Are you running a stock fuel pump? Check and be sure its good and that your fuel pump ecc is not grooved or going bad seen this on several 340-360s . Also is your intake a egr intake ? that could be partial cause of it acting up in on take off. Another thing to look at do you have a Chrysler Elec ignition? Ran into two control boxes that were bad and acted like carb problem

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: ragtop] #1100965
03/01/12 04:58 PM
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Quote:

...says that some bogs cannot be tuned away unless the air door is tight against stop. He was right.




I just installed a new TQ from Scott @ Harms on my bone stock '76 440 (GREAT job, Scott, BTW).
The engine never ran smoother except for a slight bog upon stepping on the accelerator. Because of this thread, I went to check on the secondary air door gap. It was dead on according to what you guys described.
Frustrated, I noticed something. The bowl vent lever arm.

Picture no. 1 shows the position as it was on the new carb.
Picture no. 2 shows it as it was on my old carb.
I repositioned the lever on the new carb to the same position as the old carb and the bog went totally away.

I'm no genius on this stuff and I have no idea what I did and why it worked but I had to throw this out there to you guys.

Pic #1 (lever position similar to the new TQ):



Pic #2 (lever position that is on old TQ):



but it cured the problem.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100966
03/01/12 06:45 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

How does one determine this orifice size? Photo?



I have a tiny drill bit set that is #60 (.039") through #80 (.0115"). Some hobby shops have them. Just keep inserting a drill in the orifice hole until you get to a drill big enough that it won't go in anymore. No photo, sorry. I'll try the next time I work on it.

Quote:

Did you make this restrictor? Picture?



I found a 3/16" diameter plastic rod, drilled a .013" hole in the middle, then inserted it in the vacuum line.




Awesome. Thanks Dave. I was thinking maybe it was stamped somewhere or something.


DynoDave
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Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: DynoDave] #1100967
03/02/12 09:30 PM
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Dave Watt Offline
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I edited a few of the dimensions in my earlier posts to clarify what modifications were done.

Don't laugh but the Old Navy flag stem is exactly 3/16" diameter which fits snugly into the pull-off vacuum hose. I drilled a .016" hole about 3/8" of an inch deep, then used a hacksaw to cut the piece off. Ran the drill through again to make sure there weren't any burrs from the saw.
The red arrow shows where the original orifice is, this particular one has a .033" hole which would be way too big for my application.
One of my pull-offs had an ink stamp on it but I don't know what it means.
Also is the drill set and the pin vise to hold the drill.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100968
03/02/12 10:31 PM
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Excellent photo Dave. Thanks.


DynoDave
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Member # 12304
1970 Plymouth Duster
1972 Dodge Charger Rallye
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1977 Chrysler Cordoba
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: DynoDave] #1100969
03/03/12 10:20 AM
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Thanks for the great information and tips. This will be a great aid to me and others.


old340dog
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: old340dog] #1100970
03/03/12 11:59 AM
03/03/12 11:59 AM
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When you are able to do some test and tune at the track you will want to increase the orifice size until 60' times start to slow down. You may find when you change something else (timing, jetting, tires, launch technique ect.) you can benefit by going thru another iteration of orifice size testing. Keep in mind that area changes with the square of radius so small changes can be significant.



1971 Factory Appearing Duster 340 11.000 @ 122 mph
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: ragtop] #1100971
03/03/12 12:56 PM
03/03/12 12:56 PM
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Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Commando1] #1100972
03/06/12 10:05 PM
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I have a bunch of Thermoquads for parts that the hardware is good but siezed up. Is there a good product to dip them in to loosen the stuck bowl screws?

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100973
03/06/12 10:18 PM
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DynoDave
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1972 Dodge Charger Rallye
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1977 Chrysler Cordoba
Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100974
03/07/12 01:23 AM
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Dave try using a deep creep type of break free. A cheap solution of 75% trans fluid and 25% acetone works pretty good as a soak, give them a week or so fully submerged. If that fails try soaking them in diesel fuel overnight.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: ScottSmith_Harms] #1100975
03/07/12 09:58 AM
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Thanks for the tips Scott. I've tried PB Blaster without luck. I'll give the Acetone/trans fluid a chance.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100976
10/28/13 04:27 PM
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I wanted to bring this thread back up. There are a few things that might help guys out.

Some of the carbs I've bought were completely stuck. A propane torch and PB Blaster can help remove some really stubborn screws, idle mixture screws, and loosen the throttle shafts.
Heat the area around the stuck screw or shaft, then shoot the area with the Blaster. Apply more heat until the area is smoking again, you might see the Blaster bubbling up which is great, shoot it with more Blaster. It may take 5 or 6 tries but eventually you should be able to remove anything. Be patient, don't force the screw or it will just break off. The Blaster will flame up but nothing scary. Work in a well ventilated, open area away from things that can burn.

Finally worked with the choke pull-off adjustment enough at the track that the carb doesn't bog anymore. The car has run 13.90 @ 101MPH at our local track, and 14.12 @ 99MPH during the Pure Stock Muscle Car Drags.

Re: Thermoquad secondary tuning? [Re: Dave Watt] #1100977
10/28/13 10:27 PM
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Good tips Dave. Sometimes it doesn't seem to matter how much you want them to come apart, they still don't want too.
I experienced the dredded bog for the first time with the Duster at MIR. One pump shot adjustment and the next pass it was blowing the tires off again.


Work In Progress- 71' Duster F.A.S.T.- 10.36@130 Smallblock Record Holder.
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