So, my season is officially a wash, so it's time to get working on next year. 5.13's and new rear shocks will be finding their way under my heap. I also feel there is a few hundredths or better in my front alignment.
Currently, the car tracks DEAD straight with low rolling resistance. I have a slight push left at the hit, and a very manageable draw to the right when I drop the nose. This car will coast down from 100+ with no hands on the wheel and not wander an inch. Dead straight is an understatement. Get it rolling 1-2 mph in the staging lanes and then drop it into neutral and it will roll a long ways. That part is excellent.
But, starting from static height (25 1/2" to lip of wheel opening at the spindle line) the passenger side tire goes from neutral camber to slight camber out to slight camber in at the top of the travel. Total camber arc is about 3/8" max.
The drivers side stays neutral for about an inch of travel and then finally cambers outward a total of 5/8" at the top of the suspension travel. Total travel is 5 1/2".
How do we get this to be closer to neutral throughout the suspension travel? I'm trying to tackle this with basic garage tools, but given that I think I did a pretty good job on the alignment using a carpenters' square and a couple of 2x4's, how hard can it be right?
My guess is that there's at least .05 left in my front suspension without even going to something more skookum than my old 90/10 shocks.

Did you set the alignment up with the body UP 1" to
simulate down track.... all the caster you can get,
0 camber and if you are worried that much 0 toe in
which I would normally say 0 to 1/16" toe in.... all
set at 1" up on the body

I've got 1/16-1/8" of toe-in, which I set and checked at 1" up from static. It was a bit of an affair, as I would set it, drop the nose, bounce it a few times, back the car out of the garage and then drive it back in after turning the wheels all the way left and then right and then back to center. That part I think worked out. I just figured I'm ready to tackle this camber change deal.
You can see the camber change in the pic I attached. When I'm jacking the front end up, you can feel the extra drag on the rise when it starts trying to drag the bottom of the tire inwards. Obviously this is a little different when the tire is rolling, but I would imagine it still drags the car down a bit.

Did you check the toe change thru the front end travel? Sometimes there is a bunch as the front end comes up, made a big difference for me working that out. I would suggest you check more than just the camber, caster is very important just not as easy to check.

I haven't checked the toe change closely, but I believe it stays fairly true based on eye-ball measurement. I will measure it tomorrow night using a drywall square. Stuff like that is actually quite handy for this kind of thing.

There are several tools available to check toe without a machine, check RJ Race Cars.

You are obviously a man with an attention to detail so you may not want to hear what I'm going to say. The camber change is not slowing your car down. Toe change will have the most if not all of the effect on your ET. Camber is going to affect how the tire wears, caster will affect how straight the car goes and how the steering returns to center. You obviously have that worked out.

You should have 1/16" to 0 toe in and it should change as little as possible through out the entire suspension movement. This will get your best ET. Having said that though unless the change in toe is drastic at some point where the car spends most of it's time going down the track the gains will be minimal. In other words you're not going to see .2 of improvement and if the current setup is real close you'll probably not see anything.

Do a full toe curve on the front end and correct it
if its out much

I would try setting the toe at zero at one inch up Check the toe pattern from at rest to wheels off the ground and go from there. I think you have to bend the lower ball joint end that the tie rods hook to change the toe pattern. The Mopar drag race chassis manual covers that in great detail

Well, I did the toe pattern check tonight. Starting from static and measuring at a point 28" back from the spindle, I have a grand total of 1/2" of toe change. I'm thinking I got that part right, eh? Not bad for a machinist. Now I have to decide if I want to tackle the camber change. Would the best way to address this be to set the camber at zero at the midpoint of the travel, or is there another way to set the camber so that it doesn't drag the contact patch sideways as the front end rises?
Is 5 1/2" (from static) enough front end travel? I can lower the nose of this thing close to another inch, as the trailer I'll be using in the future won't be so high as to give me header clearance issues when loading.