anyone have a picture of 2 sp vs 3 sps linkage bars for a 74 B body?

I got a 343167 in the mail and was pumped, but it looks like I may have the 3 speed instead of 2 speed one I need.

Thanks for any info.

Post a pic and Jules can quickly identify what you got...

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,34649.0.html

Thank you for the incredible information.

This is awesome.

I had gotten to the point I knew I had a two speed motor,
had to get the resistor for two speeds, got that set up and working.

I have the transmission arm attached to the motor and appears to work and have park function (without everthing else hooked up yet.

I have one each of the transmission arms (the "6" vs "7" part number)
and got to the point where I thought the only difference was the hole in the motor end of the shaft and those threads verify that.



my cover boot is in rought shape also and just glad to have one. I will get more grease in there.



it appears that the linkake that goes between the wiper arm pivots is the same for a two or three speed.



I have some of those plastic washer/clips, so after some arm bending and swearing, should be good to good thanks to all these threads and pictures you hooked me up with here.

Be glad our cowl mesh grills come off. Ever tried hooking your wiper transmission linkage arm up on a car with the ONLY access into the cowl is through the hole your wiper motor goes into? That will get you cursing on its own, then throw in a clip worse to hook up, and even a nun would be making sailors blush.

Anyway, thank you again for the info and help, this nails it!

ps-
any tips for the little plastic cap nuts?

I was going to put them on the linage, then use big pliers to put them on the wiper arms.

Or do you need to have it on the wiper arm post prior to attaching the linakge?

I may just hit the three bolts and remove each of the wiper arms and put it together first then install.

anyway,
if you have done it before tips appreciated.

make teh complete linkage assembly out of the car then slide into teh cowl area and fit the pivots.

the plastic bushings are REALLY HARD to fit, and even I did it, still dunno how to make it without damage them

These bushings ?

put them in the long link arms first.
Start them in the link , and push them thru with a flat object .

Once in the link arm, the wiper pivot can be instaled in the bushing.
It makes it much easier if you put a dab of white grease in the bushings first

I never could fit them nice an clean into the links they got some ugly scratches . Links also got some bends on thar area what I had to straighten out once bushings got in

fit them into the studs was fairly easy . Used vaseline

I've done hundreds of them this way-

Lay the bushing on a flat surface - closed side up.
Lay the link arm on top of it aligning the slot with the key arm on the bushing.

Put a deep well socket on top of the link arm over top of the bushing.
Smack it abrubtly with a mallet or plastic hammer.

Put a dab of white grease in the center of the bushing .
Install said wiper pivot pin on the bushing and smack it again.

Done

thanks,
linkage out of the car,
dab of lithium grease,
and the socket/hammer technique
is how I got it done.

Problem now is that when assembled, even with wiper blades off, somthing was catching.

I thought the pivots could only be installed one way,
but maybe I was wrong and need to make sure I have the turns right.

Is there a technique to make sure:
Pivots are in correct orientation (drivers side I am sure bolts in only one way, passenger maybe two ways)

Linkage transmission arm is installed correct way on motor stud- I guess you could end up doing it two ways, 180 degrees apart.

Thank you for any more info.

ps-
I have the linkage between the wiper pivot arms installed like in this picture,
am I correct or do I have it upside down?

Thank you.

Somehow, that doesn't look right.

Are we looking at it from the driver's seat, so to speak?

If so, the lever arm that's on the linkage (the dogleg piece) that bolts onto the wiper motor shaft is on the wrong side of the linkage.

If we're looking at it from the the front of the car (which I suspect), shouldn't the linkage arm go to the passenger side pivot arm? I believe the linkage arm needs to be turned over, the drive lever arm needs to placed on the other side of the hole in the linkage arm, and the pivot in view (which I believe would be the passenger side pivot) needs to be the one that the two rods/linkages attach to.

Maybe I'm just not seeing something here...

this is looking from the front of the car.

the bracket goes on to the wiper motor stud,
the transmission arm goes to the drivers side pivot.

and the linkage arm connects the pivots.
I am not sure if the linkage arm is facing the right way, or if it should be turned over with the flat side facing towards the front.

I have a 73 diagram, should be the same.

Sorry about the earlier bad info.

Just looked at my '72. Linkage from wiper drive arm to driver side pivot looks the same as mine.
The cross-link (from driver-side pivot to passenger-side pivot) looks very slightly different than mine: On mine, the curved side faces forward and the sharp edges of the link face aft. In your pic, it shows the curved edge facing aft and the sharp edges facing forward. Not sure if it would make a difference, as I believe the link is straight, but I didn't feel along the full length of it. My wipers do work properly without binding, tho.

I didn't look at the link full length under the cowl, but the parts catalog pic shows a curve in it. I would think, due to the curvature of the cowl, that any curve in the link would need to be forward to keep from hanging up on the back part of the cowl underneath where the window stainless trim is attached.

I'm not familair with 3rd generation B-body cars.

But, the wiper transmisions( pivots ) will only go in 1 way , afaik.

Linkage differences I can't answer

actually where is pointing out the link curvature shouldn't be more important than correctnes itself more than functionality... HOWEVER could it be checked just for clearence purpuse with pivot baseplate or whatever around. I can't recall how were mine, but I think pics are still with stock position. When I did it simple removed one and replace inmediatly, then the other one to be sure I was installing on same position.