|
Re: MY JEEP BUILD THREAD
[Re: DusterDave]
#1061554
12/29/12 01:10 PM
12/29/12 01:10 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,077
Oklahoma City
Jwilli500
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,077
Oklahoma City
|
Hey Dave,
Got a couple of questions about the motor if you dont mind? First,were you able to internally balance it? without Mallory metal? Second, what cam did you use? specs? Third, Did you deck the block for quench? The reason I ask, is I'm seriously contemplating a very similar motor and this will help me make some decisions. Thanks man!
Last edited by Jwilli500; 12/29/12 04:44 PM.
|
|
|
Re: MY JEEP BUILD THREAD
[Re: Jwilli500]
#1061555
12/29/12 05:17 PM
12/29/12 05:17 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
DusterDave
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
|
Quote:
Hey Dave,
Got a couple of questions about the motor if you dont mind? First,were you able to internally balance it? without Mallory metal? Second, what cam did you use? specs? Third, Did you deck the block for quench? The reason I ask, is I'm seriously contemplating a very similar motor and this will help me make some decisions. Thanks man!
Yes, Dan at Performance was able to internally balance it. I don't think he had to use Mallory Metal, but I'll ask him.
I used this Comp Cams cam. Nostalgia/Purple Plus Hydraulic camshaft
The block was decked for optimum quench. I used magnum heads, which have closed chambers.
Hope that helps.
Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
|
|
|
Re: MY JEEP BUILD THREAD
[Re: DusterDave]
#1061557
12/30/12 04:18 PM
12/30/12 04:18 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,077
Oklahoma City
Jwilli500
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,077
Oklahoma City
|
Thanks for the info Dave! Now I understand the way that thing sounded on the dyno! I am planning on a set of the Enginequest heads too but I'll probably use the 60711 Hydraulic roller from Lunati for the bottom end torque etc. Thanks again!  What diameter are the stubs for your primary tubes? Quote:
Yes, Dan at Performance was able to internally balance it. I don't think he had to use Mallory Metal, but I'll ask him.
I used this Comp Cams cam. Nostalgia/Purple Plus Hydraulic camshaft
The block was decked for optimum quench. I used magnum heads, which have closed chambers.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Jwilli500; 12/30/12 04:21 PM.
|
|
|
Re: MY JEEP BUILD THREAD
[Re: DusterDave]
#1061560
01/01/13 11:22 PM
01/01/13 11:22 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
DusterDave
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
|
I gave the TJ booster a couple coats of paint, and the bracket as well. I mocked it up, to see how it fits around the engine, etc. Plenty of clearance. But, I set the hood in place, and there is 1/8 of an inch of clearance between the top of the cap and the underside of the hood. That's damned close, but its better than the alternative! I've also begun to putt around with fitting some of the primary pipes together. I've got the collectors positioned where I want them, so now, its just a matter of connecting point A to point B, times 8. 
Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
|
|
|
Re: MY JEEP BUILD THREAD
[Re: DusterDave]
#1061561
01/10/13 11:49 PM
01/10/13 11:49 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
DusterDave
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
|
To recap, the '95 Ford T-Bird fan I chose to cool the Performance Only beast was too long in one direction. The bottom needed to get whacked off, and sealed up. I also cut off the unneeded top brackets.  Bottom hacked off with my air body saw. Edges made straight with a 6" orbital sander.  I made a cardboard template that would represent the sheet metal cover.  Cut, formed, pop riveted and painted. I covered all of the edges of the shroud with plastic car door edge guarding, to help protect the radiator fins. I'm currently building brackets so I can mount this fan to the rad. 
Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
|
|
|
Re: MY JEEP BUILD THREAD
[Re: rickstershemi]
#1061565
01/27/13 10:40 AM
01/27/13 10:40 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
DusterDave
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
|
Time to build the rock sliders! I'm starting with a Poison Spyder Ricochet Step DIY kit.  During my lunch hour on Friday, I purchased two pieces of 7 gauge hot rolled steel, measuring 50" x 12". I dropped them off at a sheet metal fabrication shop just a few blocks down the road to get them formed. I added up my material costs, and I saved about $180.00 building these myself, instead of buying them already made from Poison Spyder.  This morning, I'm going to make a cardboard template for the part of the formed metal that goes under the tub, trace it out, and remove the excess metal with a plasma cutter. If all goes well, I'll get everything tacked together today.
Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
|
|
|
Re: MY JEEP BUILD THREAD
[Re: DusterDave]
#1061566
01/27/13 10:55 PM
01/27/13 10:55 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
DusterDave
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
|
I made some extensions to reach two of the body mounts.  Test fit of the body mounting points.  [ Fully welded up. 
Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
|
|
|
Re: MY JEEP BUILD THREAD
[Re: DusterDave]
#1061567
01/27/13 10:58 PM
01/27/13 10:58 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
DusterDave
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,845
Tampa
|
I only managed to get the driver's side completely done today. I countersunk the attachment holes, and used 5/16-18 flat head Allen bolts.   I reinforced the inside with 3/16" thick steel plate. 
Gone to the dark side with an LS3 powered '57 Chevy 210
|
|
|
|
|
I've got a gap on the #7 header stub that will be addressed.
