I can't pretend to know whether or not there's anything wrong with the steering column in question. You have to do some basic inspection but why spend $700 and up unless you know it needs it? My friend bought a numbers matching 383 4 speed convertible Challenger that was a basket case sitting in a farm field for decades. When he took the heads off, the valves were so rusty you could see past the edges of several of them into the ports. He was going to get a complete rebuild on his trans including synchros and bearings. I made the suggestion to try it first. Lo and behold, it works perfectly. Nice to be right some of the time...although my wife will never admit it!

I can offer my services if you wish.
Tx
Jules

2

last

If it aint broke... don't fix it. I'd try it. But it likely needs a cosmetic refresh depending on your intentions...

To repeat what's been said, the correct paint is about $100 (got mine pre thinned from Color Correct aka Mopaint) and it was enough to do two columns. To do the column nicely you really need to disassemble it... and spending $100 on paint, I'm sure you'd want to do a good job. That doesn't mean you need parts. I needed none, and if I end up needing some later, all that stuff is easy enough to get to that you don't need to remove the column from the car to get to it.

BUT a huge tip for you is: DON'T hammer on the collar coming apart or going back together! It is a cast part and it is secured to the shaft at one point and it will minimally bend, but quickly thereafter break! Hammering is not necessary. When/if you get there you will see what I mean. Other than taking pics of the disassembly it is very simple (a shop manual is a very wise purchase and could save you 100 headaches).

At the end of my two column restos I was surprised at the pride I had in the job I had done on a part no one thinks about. It is good to know the ins and outs of what's between you and the front wheels.

The reason I felt the column needed rebuilding was due to some items in the pictures I had recieved (and deleted, duh). The coupler was intact, but the inner column cap that seals the lower side of the shaft was hanging down, which means it was exsposed to the elements in that time. The car in question that it is coming out of was beyond rusty to the point that the front end is falling off the rest of the car. Given that information, I feel that it may be prodent to just restore the column mechanicals before it gets shipped to me and send it right to a rebuilder. When it comes to old mopars and doing some work, I start on the safety parts first other than the drivability or cosmetics. I've been behind the wheel of a car that lost the rag joint while I was driving it, and it was not a good ride. So every time since I get a mopar, I always check out the steering, brakes and suspension before it makes regular duties. Yeah I know that's a bit paranoid, but I would hate to have something happen. There are people and their families on the road besides myself and not wanting to make a preventable situation a bad memory. So it's just smart to be safe than cheap.

may be helpful

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0308_mopar_steering_column_rebuild/index.html

Yep, I used this article as a source as well. Knew I didn't just use the FSM and it was a well written article to boot!!

Here is the picture miguel of your concern.

Some columns don't have a bearing in the bottom, but just rely on a white plastic bushing instead. They make new bushings that have a slot cut in them so you can install them without taking the column apart.

I suppose I'd disassemble it if that's the case... but there's not much behind that bushing until further up toward the other end. It probably has dirt, etc up in there but isn't making anything dangerous to the best of my knowledge.

Bill or anyone else,
any pictures of the engine end of the column? trying to figure out colors of the shaft and coupler (in case it matter 69 B body PS).

wasn't going to pull my column, but was hoping to be able to spruce things up in place engine side as my engine bay is empty now.

Thanks

some lower columns and coupler assy's were poorly painted gloss black

this one had no signs of ever being anything but natural steel - there for - thats the way I put it back. And I just realized I didn't take an 'after' picture of that far down the column.

But here is a before picture.,,,, there was NO signs of anything but natural steel

This is 1970 B-body column , floorshift but with the interlock lever.

I have a 1969 B-body column shift assy here if you need pictures of it before I take it apart

The (2) 69 RR's I have had with auto on the column both had the lower steel shaft painted black. One was a Nov 68 St Louis car and the other is a June 69 Lynch Road car. Both had/have power steering but the PS box was natural. There were definite clear signs of the black paint. This is not related yo the interior or column cover color. One was tan interior and my current one has blue interior.

Ok so I jumped in and am in the process of disassembly. Question.... once you remove the coupleing body ( and all the nasty grease) at the end of the shaft is the "shaft to shoe pin".... does it press/punch out? I dont want to damage anything

The cross pin at the bottom of the shaft can stay in place. If you pull the upper parts of the column apart in the right order the steering shaft can slide out the bottom with the pin still in place. The shaft cannot slide up thru the shift tube with the pin in place.

It's probably impossible to remove without a press anyways. If you beat it with a hammer the end would mushroom and you'd have issues with the shoes fitting over it again.

Also a reminder that the shift tube and the steering shaft are made of peices two held together with plastic so you want to treat the column with care as you take it apart. No hammers, prying, etc.

I now have mine all disassembled and working on cleaning it up. Where is the best place to purchase the rebuild parts ( seals,,,turnsignal swith etc)??