Quote:

---

No a lock coller is used, can't have shims pushing on the rear seal area.
You talking about this kind of coupler?

---

I have the same coupler on my RED and use a lock coller.

Quote:

---

The female end is held-in with a pinion nut. To the best of my knowledge ... the trans end just "floats".

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

The female end is held-in with a pinion nut. To the best of my knowledge ... the trans end just "floats".

---

It ain't good enough Doc(your knowlege) because it Don't float!!

Why post when you don't know??

---

Well then .... the TWO OTHER people that I bought the shortie 727 kits(that had a male coupler on it) did not use any-type of "lock" on it. And I asked about it. I would have thought that there would be (at least) some-type of a set-screw that would have "locked" the male end onto the trans output shaft.

NEITHER guy used of that.

NO ... these cars were not fuel or alky cars. Just S/C-ers. WHY do you find it necessary to come-after me on some of my posts? ... I "qualified" my answer. And I DO know ... all I am doing is relaying MY experiences ....

...as I sit here typing ...with the one spare MW 8 3/4 coupler in front of me.

...and I would like to see this locking collar ....I would rather use one myself. I have yet to mount the engine and trans. Using that feature would make trans or pig removal EZier....if need be.

Quote:

---

Yes it s that kind of coupler. What stops the male coupler to slide forward into the tail of the trans? Where will you mount a look collar?

---

They make different length of the trans part... if you
look closely at that drawing on trans you can see that
the part will bump into a shoulder if it slides forward

Quote:

---

Coupler Clearances
The coupler must be long enough that the exterior ground surface that the seal inside diameter rides on is completely through the bushing in the transmission tail case housing. If it is not then it will be necessary to use four couplers and a drive shaft as show below. In order to keep the coupler properly engaged in the differential coupler you must have a spacer inserted in the coupler behind the transmission output shaft. This spacer must allow approximately 1/8" of coupler movement to allow for chassis movement. The spacer can be made of aluminum, plastic or hardwood. Often a broom handle is called into action for this cause. The alignment of the engine centerline to the differential is critical, as misalignment will cause premature wear on the transmission tail case bushing and the couplers. Couplers are not designed to compensate for misalignment but will tolerate small amounts of misalignment. Put some anti seize on the coupler teeth before installation.



Rickster

---

Quote:

---

Yes it s that kind of coupler. What stops the male coupler to slide forward into the tail of the trans?

---

Quote:

---

That drawing is for a car where you would have to move the rear end or motor to get the tranny out. No one builds cars like that any more. There's usally designed with more room so the coupler can be slide back so you can get the tranny out without moving anything in which case a locking collar is used.
In the picture above the spacer is inside in the form of a peice of wood. There's no locking collar needed because there is no room for a locking coupler.

---

My RED is set up so the coupler is a true quick disconnect. All I need to do is loosen the locking collar, disengage the coupler and I can remove the trans. Here is a picture. You can see the collar seated against the coupler.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Coupler Clearances
The coupler must be long enough that the exterior ground surface that the seal inside diameter rides on is completely through the bushing in the transmission tail case housing. If it is not then it will be necessary to use four couplers and a drive shaft as show below. In order to keep the coupler properly engaged in the differential coupler you must have a spacer inserted in the coupler behind the transmission output shaft. This spacer must allow approximately 1/8" of coupler movement to allow for chassis movement. The spacer can be made of aluminum, plastic or hardwood. Often a broom handle is called into action for this cause. The alignment of the engine centerline to the differential is critical, as misalignment will cause premature wear on the transmission tail case bushing and the couplers. Couplers are not designed to compensate for misalignment but will tolerate small amounts of misalignment. Put some anti seize on the coupler teeth before installation.



Rickster

---

That drawing is for a car where you would have to move the rear end or motor to get the tranny out. No one builds cars like that any more . There's usally designed with more room so the coupler can be slide back so you can get the tranny out without moving anything in which case a locking collar is used.
In the picture above the spacer is inside in the form of a peice of wood. There's no locking collar needed because there is no room for a locking coupler.

---

Quote:

---

How do you shim a coupler? This is a bigblock to a PG in an old FED.
It was mounted with 1/2 inch of shims between trans tailend and coupler, is that the proper way?

---

YES as far as I understand the application

Rickster

Quote:

---

I would believe this is the correct application for the OP's FED.....please feel free to correct me...?????

Rickster

---

No your right, it sounds like what he is asking.

On my alky dragster we started out using one steel locking collar, it would move during the run. Then we went to 2 steel locking collars, it would still move.
Then we went to 2 aluminum locking collers and now they hardly move anymore. This is on a 5.5 second dragster.

Quote:

---

I would believe this is the correct application for the OP's FED.....please feel free to correct me...?????

---

I agree FED needs to shim his set up. The difference between what I have and what FED is asking about is: I have the coupler that uses a quick disconnect power glide sleeve. You must use a locating collar with the configuration I am using. Go to the Mark Williams web page and you will see several different configurations of their coupler set ups.

Quote:

---

Most of the old FED's don't have the engine out far enough for a sliding coupler with lock ring. I had to cut mine down to 4" with a shorty Glide for my '68 Woody Gilmore chassis. The new FED's have the engine out farther and there is a lot more room. They are correct with using a piece of wood, or a plastic dowel rod to fill the space inside the transmission end of the coupler after you have set your 1/8" free movement so you don't take a chance on binding up the coupler. [/quote

Is there a stop inside the coupler for the wood to seat against? My coupler is short 1" 1/4 and i can push it all the way into the trans, so that the coupler seat against the trans rear bushing. It has been mounted with 1/2" of shims beetween trans and coupler. How long is the bushing in the trans and is it ok that the coupler seats to the small step insude the transbushing?

Quote:

---

Mounted with shimpack!

---

Wow, That's what I envisioned and no I don't think that will last long like that. That's a first for me, have never seen it done like that.
I would not run it like that.
Put a spacer inside like shown above.
Not much spline either, doesn't appear very strong being so short.
Thanks for the pictures, let's see what everyone else thinks.

Aren't you sitting on this in the car?

My shorty glides didn't have tailshafts like that.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Most of the old FED's don't have the engine out far enough for a sliding coupler with lock ring. I had to cut mine down to 4" with a shorty Glide for my '68 Woody Gilmore chassis. The new FED's have the engine out farther and there is a lot more room. They are correct with using a piece of wood, or a plastic dowel rod to fill the space inside the transmission end of the coupler after you have set your 1/8" free movement so you don't take a chance on binding up the coupler. [/quote

Is there a stop inside the coupler for the wood to seat against? My coupler is short 1" 1/4 and i can push it all the way into the trans, so that the coupler seat against the trans rear bushing. It has been mounted with 1/2" of shims beetween trans and coupler. How long is the bushing in the trans and is it ok that the coupler seats to the small step insude the transbushing?

---

Seems the shorty Glide in this type of setup is normal.....seems short to me also....but here's some examples:

*****Powerglide 27 spline (3 7/8" long) pn 28190-40800



Rickster

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Mounted with shimpack!

---

Wow, That's what I envisioned and no I don't think that will last long like that. That's a first for me, have never seen it done like that.
I would not run it like that.
Put a spacer inside like shown above.
Not much spline either, doesn't appear very strong being so short.
Thanks for the pictures, let's see what everyone else thinks.

Aren't you sitting on this in the car?

My shorty glides didn't have tailshafts like that.

---

When I built my brothers altered we used a full size
glide and I had to machine a spacer to slide inside
the trans that the coupler butted up to... never
seen shims riding on the seal like that

Quote:

---

Is there supposed to be a stop inside the coupler, beetwen the spacer and the pinionnut?

---

Actually yes there is... if you look at the first pics
showing the 1/8" space you can see the metal disc that
in there right at the pinion nut... if you dont have
it you can tack weld a plate/disc in there so the wood
spacer can bump into it... I'm suprized you dont
leak trans fluid at that point(my brothers did so
we sealed the disc with silicon)

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Is there supposed to be a stop inside the coupler, beetwen the spacer and the pinionnut?

---

Actually yes there is... if you look at the first pics
showing the 1/8" space you can see the metal disc that
in there right at the pinion nut... if you dont have
it you can tack weld a plate/disc in there so the wood
spacer can bump into it... I'm suprized you dont
leak trans fluid at that point(my brothers did so
we sealed the disc with silicon)

---

That's right, in your application the coupler needs a plug in the end. It's like the plug we put in the back of a engine block to fill the cam hole. It's concave and when you install it with a hammer it spreads out tightly fitting in the hole.
It's more risky imo because it's another place for oil to leak out but's it's the only way in your case.
When I ran PG we used a shorty that doesn't seal at the coupler, it didn't use a tailshaft housing. Here's old couplers from PG with open ends. These are worn out because the hobbs are all torn up. Use plenty of anti seeze on them otherwise they won't last long. These were behind a dragster with 1400HP(632 big chief with nitrous)