+I am putting in A Hurst Line Lock into our 70 RR. I got all the fittings I thought I needed at the local Carzone store. Pulled the brake lines off the brass block with the shuttle valve thingie in it. I got all 3/16" fittings as that is the line size. However, the line end that goes into the brass block is a 3/16" line but the threads are for a 1/4" line, maybe because the block is brass. So, can I use a 1/4" tee in this situation or will there not be enough flare seating? Otherwise, I am going to have to cut the ends off my nice stainless steel brake lines and put on 3/16" fittings. Otherwise, I can keep the stainless steel lines intact and make up new lines using regular brake line material I suppose.

If I make new brake lines can I just go straight to the Hurst line lock as it has three outlets, eliminating the tee in the installation diagram? What about eliminating this brass block, just put in a union for the rear brake line, which will probably also require cutting the ends to get the right size tube nut to use with a standard union.

Has anyone used the universal installation kit Hurst sells on a Mopar?

I have no problem removing the brass block; less useless weight at the drag strip as it is not a proportioning valve. I think my double flaring tool can survive a couple of flares on stainless. If I use the line lock as a tee it makes more sense to eliminate the brass block at that point.

Hope this makes a modicum of sense.

Best regards, Dave

I'm about to do something similar to my '64 Savoy, but also switching to a double MC, and using a Hurst "Roll Control" (Line-Loc). My car has a similar block, actually a Tee: R/F, L/F & Rear brakes, no low-fluid light like yours. So:
3/16 lines I have use 3/8-24 male fittings.
My Hurst LL has 1/8 NPT female threads.
My '69 drum dual-MC has a 5/16-? & a 7/16-20 port.
I figure MC Ft to the LL, tee the ft brakes there. Rear line will run from MC to an adjustable proportioning valve, then maybe to the old Tee with ft brake ports blocked; depends on whether I can package the prop valve down on the frame rail and still adjust it. I think I can get the LL & PV both down on the frame rail and avoid having to replace the lines to R/F, L/F, and rear brakes.
I found adapters in the Speedway (Lincoln, NE) catalog for everything but the 5/16 MC to 3/8-24, but I think I can use a 5/16 fitting & fab that line.
Hope this helps. Hopefully I'm not missing something, seems simple enough.

Why do you need a T ?? You cut the front brake line coming out of the m/c and you plump in the line loc. Done deal!

I just read the part about 3 outlets. ??? Plug two of them!!

The Line-Loc becomes the front tee. Maybe I wasn't clear on that.
The existing tee would only be re-used if necessary to avoid fabbing a new rear line, but I'd prefer instead to use a union and another length of line to the PV, and put the PV where I want it.

You don't need a tee fitting. Look at how I did mine. Remove the front brake line that goes to the proportioning valve and use 2 10" (or whatever) lines. The one from the MC goes to the IN on the roll control module and 1 goes from the OUT to the proportioning valve (or where ever you removed the old line from.) I also wired my light which indicates if its on to the BRAKE light in my dash, so I don't have a light under the dash or somewhere else. Now if I could just come up with a clean installation for the switch on my Pistol Grip shifter.

Looks good, except the use of teflon tape on inverted flare fittings is a no-no. It will actually cause it to leak. Remove it, the factory didn't use it. Why would you?

Who says. Ever try to remove an old rusty brake line. The tape makes it easier, and its been there for 3 years with out narry a leak. Perhaps if the factory would have used it people would stop rounding off those brake line fittings cause the line has welded itself together.

For one it looks all wrong, just my
Anti seize does the same thing without the danger of the tape coming loose into your brake system.

I bet the tape has turned yellow, that's the fluild wicking out.

Quote:

---

For one it looks all wrong

---

"What" looks all wrong ??? Mine's been plumbed like that for 30 years and works like a charm.

As for the teflon tape ... you guys fight it out. Personally I never use it on a flare fitting.

Quote:

---

Now if I could just come up with a clean installation for the switch on my Pistol Grip shifter.

---

I hear ya !!!!

The tape looks all wrong, nothing wrong with the plumbing, I said that looks good, not the tape.
I work with flared fittings for a living, tape is all wrong when used with flared fittings.

---

I agree, tape is for pipe threads... flare doesnt get
anything on the flare but you can lube the nut

Thanks for all of the replies.

The reason for the tee is that I have read that you want to not pressurize one side of the block that has the brake warning light. It appears that is not the case. I like the idea of using that as the warning light.

My other issue is that there is a limited supply of fittings here on island.

On the threads of brake fittings I have always used Lucas brake grease. Great stuff, designed for assembly of brake systems so totally compatible with brake fluid. I smear it all over the threads of the nuts and between the nut and the line since I do not have to worry about it getting into the brake system. Unfortunately, our Land Rover supplier told us it is NLA (no longer available). Boo.

I am planning on using the washer fluid switch as the button as the supplied button does not work on a pistol grip shifter.

I bought the Hurst Line Lock installation kit. It has everything you need. #5671510

Quote:

---

I am planning on using the washer fluid switch as the button as the supplied button does not work on a pistol grip shifter.

---

Its pretty hard to see the 'tree with washer fluid spraying all over the windshield !!!