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Have a 440 stroker with stealth heads roller cam. Had it to drags last night after first pass came back to pits. Dipstick was blown halfway out of tube, oil was coming out of breather and pcv valve, also valley pan was ballooned up to where it was touching the bottom of the intake. Car has 1 push in breather and a pcv valve. Does it need another breather? any ideas? Thanks

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The last motor I saw like this had some serious probs ... like a dime-sized hole in one of the pistons.

As suggested before .... do a leak-down test or AT LEAST a compression check. To blow-up a valley pan like that requires some BIG TIME blow-by.

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It is a 7 quart pan i dont know the manufacturer. MP chrome dipstick
filled to what i think is the appropriate level.

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How many quarts did it take to get it to the appropriate level?I had one motor that was ina used car that the owner had used a mix bag of parts, oil pan, oil pan pickup and Mopar chrome dipstick tube and dipstick. the dipstick said is was full when it had 2.5 quarts in the pan when I drained it and measured it, after it spun a rod bearing I now calibrate all the dipsticks on my new or used motors by measuring the quarts used compared to the dipstick readings

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I now calibrate all the dipsticks on my new or used motors by measuring the quarts used compared to the dipstick readings

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Dipsticks are like people, no two dipsticks are alike. Calibrate it.

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I now calibrate all the dipsticks on my new or used motors by measuring the quarts used compared to the dipstick readings

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Dipsticks are like people, no two dipsticks are alike. Calibrate it.

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Same here....the 408 with 8qt Moroso pan showed a quart low on the new stick I just installed....going to cut .5" off the tube

Rickster

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Hello,

I had some similar problems on a car with a full exhaust. The tubing was not welded to the end of the reducer. The tubing was inserted past the reducer end over an inch. This caused a bunch of back pressure that only showed up for me at the track. Intake leaks, dipstick pushed up, ballooned up pan, leaks etc. This was a fresh motor also. Do you have a full exhaust?

Damon

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What are you referring to when you say tubing

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I do have full exhaust. 3 inch flowmasters exit out the rear. Buddy is having similar issues. Really the only common thing between engines are the stealth heads. I did notice that on those heads where the push rods go thru them there is just a hole for the pushrod they are not"open" like a cast iron head. Dont know that that makes any difference just an observation. Im going to change the oil noting the amount and do the leak down test. I did pull the breather and pcv valve they are extremely close to the baffle in the valve cover about 1/8 inch

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ABOUT a 1/8" is getting close... if its closer than
that it could build pressure... are you running a
E-vac system with a full exhaust

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I do have full exhaust. 3 inch flowmasters exit out the rear. Buddy is having similar issues. Really the only common thing between engines are the stealth heads. I did notice that on those heads where the push rods go thru them there is just a hole for the pushrod they are not"open" like a cast iron head. Dont know that that makes any difference just an observation. Im going to change the oil noting the amount and do the leak down test. I did pull the breather and pcv valve they are extremely close to the baffle in the valve cover about 1/8 inch

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No no e vac system. should I get one?

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No... not with a full exhaust... a E-vac will pull a
max of 5"hg and with a exhaust for every inch of back
pressure you reduce the effectiveness by that same amount
so if the exhaust is greater than 5"hg it will pressurize
the crank case

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No no e vac system. should I get one?

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No... not with a full exhaust... a E-vac will pull a
max of 5"hg and with a exhaust for every inch of back
pressure you reduce the effectiveness by that same amount
so if the exhaust is greater than 5"hg it will pressurize
the crank case

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Mr P,I thought the one way valve for the evac system would prevent that from occuring.

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No no e vac system. should I get one?

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No... not with a full exhaust... a E-vac will pull a
max of 5"hg and with a exhaust for every inch of back
pressure you reduce the effectiveness by that same amount
so if the exhaust is greater than 5"hg it will pressurize
the crank case

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Mr P,I thought the one way valve for the evac system would prevent that from occuring.

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If you start backing up that heat, that valve wont
last for a minute

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No no e vac system. should I get one?

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On a motor that size I would consider a crank scraper. The 7 qt system is marginal and windage may continue to give you problems.

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Anything you can do to control windage will make the car faster

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Hello,

I had some similar problems on a car with a full exhaust. The tubing was not welded to the end of the reducer. The tubing was inserted past the reducer end over an inch. This caused a bunch of back pressure that only showed up for me at the track. Intake leaks, dipstick pushed up, ballooned up pan, leaks etc. This was a fresh motor also. Do you have a full exhaust?

Damon

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What are you referring to when you say tubing

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The 2.5" exhaust pipe was inserted thru the reducer and not mated to the end of the reducer just off the header collector. Caused a heck of a reversion that caused back pressure into the heads and then into the chambers from what I can tell. When the exhaust was corrected the problems went away. No other changes were done.

Damon

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Man ... people talking about PCV tubes, windage trays and scrapers ......

I talked to a Bud of mine in FL last nite ... this topic was brought up and he actually TESTED THIS some years back.

He plumbed-in a air fitting into a motor he was going to rebuild ... and put 80 psi into the oil pan to BALLOON-UP the valley-pan like that.

What you have here is some major BLOW-BY ... like holes in pistons or busted up rings.

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