Went to T&T yesterday and made 3 passes and I think I'm starting to get it figured out, but still have a way to go. (stick Car, new 9" slicks, 3940 lbs)
1st pass: Burnout 2nd gear, spin to 7200, see smoke, let go of the line lock, drop rpms to 5500 and spin toward the line until the tires hook. launch @2900 1.67 60' 10.87@125

2nd pass: Burnout 2nd gear, spin to 7200, see smoke, let go of the line lock, drop rpms to 5500 and spin toward the line until the tires hook. launch @3100 1.62 60' 10.92@124

3rd pass: Burnout 2nd gear, spin to 7200, see smoke, let go of the line lock, (don't know what I did here, may have stayed at 6500) and spin toward the line but the tires did not hook. launch @3300 1.71 60' 11.00@125

So was watching some other cars burnout. Some just heat them up until they smoke then let off, some spin them until they stop.

Is there a reason for this?

When I got my tires to hook at the end of the burnout, then the car launched pretty well, when they didn't I just stayed on the rev limter until they stopped spinning then shifted. But I'm trying to figure out what I should be doing. Thoughts/suggestions?

There was recently a thread on this and the consenses was that the burnouts were too long. I agree. Sounds like you are doing it about right. Don't think the 7200 rpm is really needed. As soon as you see smoke get off the lock and start to roll out. How you hook up after that is pretty much up to track conditions. Some times my car will load down and others it won't ( I come out in third - and you might want to try that to keep the rpm down a little). Be consistant and do it the same each time - hook or no hook ( you don't want to cross the line anyway ).

Mine being a auto I start my burnout in high gear and
when I see it start to smoke let off the line lock
and burn forward till it starts to shutter and let off
then pull directly to the line... I clean it out
then pull into the prestage light and wait till the
other guy pulls in and them I full stage

Like Mr P Body,,,I do mine in 3rd gear, just have to whack it to get the RPM's up to turn the tires over,,,count to five and let off the line lock,,,I think the RPM's are around 6000-6500,,,

you might consider pulling it into 3rd after a few seconds of your burnout if your starting in 2nd gear....

Typical burn-out for me. This was a pass earlier this year that neted me a second round by and a few $ - best first round package ( dead on my dial with a .027RT ). http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j160/jcailey/MOV01201-1.mp4

Not sure what clutch you have but having the tires grab out of the burnout box is a no no, for my soft lok. I do my burnout in 3rd gear, hold it for 2-3 seconds after letting out the clutch, then push the clutch in as it rolls forward.

Jeff

what trans do you have ?

I know it's off topic a little, I try to limit my rpms to 8500, clutch don't even come all the way in until 8800. Red line is 9800 without hurting springs. There is maybe 1/8" travel in my gas petal from 8800 to 9800 rpm. It's one of the toughest hot rods to drive, even on burnouts.

If your car starts sliding sideways during your burnout, means not enough tire speed, don't be afraid of rpm during the burnout, most times.
imo less is better on most cars unless you have enough motor to lay down rubber past the tree like TADs $ FCs do.

To much tire speed @ the start makes mine turn sideways. I hit the gas bump it up into high & when it starts moving good put it on the 3 step till I feel the tires hooking(dragster).
Door-car you want to spin them around 6500 in high for 5 seconds ease off the brake & gas at the same time. When I run the 4-speed in my 67 Coronet R/T I found that 2nd was the best gear to use,after tearing a couple of clutch's up.

Letting the tires pull the motor down with a slippery clutch is a no no but I find myself doing it sometimes to see how the track is. If the tires don't pull the engine down I know I am about to let the clutch go on a throw away pass. I realize having the clutch duke it out with the tires can't be good for the clutch. Bad habit I guess

I was at the valley and saw you run!! Nice setup!

Thanks all, was out mowing
I do the burnout in 2nd since I've always been told that 3rd seems to be the weak link in 4 spds
I guess my problem is to findout when to let up. Right now I have the clutch adjusted up so its more like a street clutch so trying to deal with one thing at a time. It seems like the burnout is the difference between hooking and blowing the tires off.

Yes, I don't like having it grab because of the shock to the clutch, but then I'm sure it will hook. I don't seem to be able to tell whens it starts to pull the engine down. It may be a habit that I just give it more throttle

Jerico 4sp 4.10 mcleod SL, 10in clutch

I've probably been told a dozen times not enough tire speed. I'm not, not listening, just have been cautious.

Guess I'll have to try a 3rd gear burnout

& yes, goes crooked sometimes out of the box. I do know when that happens, it won't hook

I basically do it like Mr P Body does. I start in second with my 727 and shift to third. Once I see smoke and hear the eng start to pull down I let off the brake and the gas and walk it out. I then get my bearings and make sure it is in first gear. Then roll up and stage trying to be in the tracks laid for best hook. Ron

Greg,
I've always used 3rd gear when doing a burnout with my Jericos ( both Duster and AMX) I've never had 3rd gear break and I do everything that everyone tells you not to do. First, I make sure they have enough water in the waterbox- not enough and you could glaze your clutch. I dump the clutch at 7000rpm to make sure that I don't bog the motor in the waterbox and then bring it up to 8000rpm while spinning ( i like to hear the motor beg for mercy) I smoke the heck out of the tires ( way too long and burnout) and then let go of the linelock and as I'm driving out of the box, I keep the motor at 8000-8500 until the motor starts to pull down as the track grips ( you don't want to be up against your rev limiter while doing a burnout as a harmonic vibration can setup and kill your valve springs). This is pure abuse on my part- I'm sure you don't have to rev it as high or spin the tires as long.
I check my valve spring pressure and set lash before each race ( not each run) My clutch is set a little tighter than most keep theirs, so I don't have trouble with a glazed disc but I do eat a ring gear every 60 or so runs in the Dana. I would not be afraid of hurting 3rd gear if your clutch is set on the loose side. My tighter clutch setup is much more likely to hurt 3rd, but I never have.

Auto car here, but Like most I start in 2nd, barely get in the water swipe roll out, start the burn out as soon as the tire start smoking I hit 3rd let them roll when the rpms start to shoot up I let the brake go and ease out to the line. With the stick maybe you could hold a steady 6500 for a few seconds longer then roll out. FWIW I see guys stay too long in the water and even do the entire burn out only a few inches away from the box. To start in 3rd you'd have to be way up in the rpms to get them going. Whould that hurt your clutch? (heat)

Mike, you're going pitch a rod in the water box.

904 here............3rd gear start to finish. I try to keep it under 8000 RPM.

Hey Mike, you're the reason I started wearing ear plugs at the track, come to think of it, you're probably the reason that my right ear doesn't work any more.

Mr. Yuck, with the clutch, heat isn't a problem if you shock it enough to get the wheels loose, but I've probly held it too long looking for that hook at the end of the burnout. The tires start grabbing and then the clutch probly starts slipping - heat then potato chip clutch disk/flywheel insert/pressure plate facing. I have a few of those sitting in my garage. just waiting for the price of overheated steel to go up

3rd in an auto is 4th in a 4 speed - since I've been heating up in 2nd, probably having to spin them too long.

I wonder if heating them up faster (surface heat) is better than heating them up slower (heat further into the tire)?