I'm at the point that I need a clutch for my 4 speed Mirada awap, but I'm still not decided on what type of clutch to get.

When I put the pedals in a couple of weeks ago I left the over center spring on because I thought I might go for the B&B, but I don't think I ever drove a car with one and I'm wondering how hard they are to release? 90% of the time I'm just going to be putting around town, so there will be a lot more stop and go driving than 6k power shifts.

What does everyone like? I also heard I can leave the over center spring in with a diaphragm if I rig up a clutch pedal stop so it doesn't stick to the floor?

I used a Hays B&B clutch and PP between a 360/A-833 O.D. combo in both my '77 B-200 van and briefly in my '77 F-body wagon. No clutch pedal return spring in the van, but I did use the factory spring in the F-body (probably the same as in your J-body?) without issue. Worked fine in both with no real effort required.

Borg/Beck 3 finger..........Kelvar disc

Diaphragms are for girls, use a three figured plate. Seriously they give me a better clutch feel.

For serious racing I would be inclined to go with the B&B. For the way you indicate you intend to drive I would go with one of the better diaphragm clutches with the overcenter spring in place and a positive but adjustable stop on the clutch pedal. There's more than one way to construct a stop, but the way I do it is to weld a connecting nut to the pedal about 2-3 inches above the pad and use a 3/8 bolt with a jam nut to lock in the adjustment. Set the adjustment so that the head of the bolt hits the firewall when you have full disengagement, but no more. This will prevent overcentering of the diaphragm which is the most common cause of diaphragm clutches hanging up. The diaphragm spring in a diaphragm clutch is in effect just a large Belleville washer. With the overcenter spring in place pedal feel is very light, more like most modern cars. McLeod, Centerforce & Sachs all make good quality clutches of either design. You can probably buy the bolt, connecting nut and jam nut from your local hardware store for about two bucks or so. FWIW I shift at 6200 rpm with a Sachs 10.75 diaphragm without any problems and it is both smooth and has a good firm lockup.

Out of curiosity, what are you using for a floor hump? I would like to see some pics of the hump installed, too. :

I ran McCleod B&B for probally 25 years.Went with Center Force dual friction last time.The pedal pressure is super light and it shifts just as good as the B&B did at 6700.Its been in for 6 years and no problems.Rocky

FYI, be careful a lot of diaphragm clutches will not work with the over-center spring. Test first with engine off!!!! Even without the over-center spring and a diaphragm the pedal will be light light.

I personally dont like diaphragm because I think the release in more a parabolic curve aspect. (nothing nothing nothing then release); where as a three fingered clutch (long, or BB) is more linear and feels the same through out the pedal.

There you go, for a driver use a diaphragm, for racing use B&B. Although the Centerforce works for racing too (I run one) you may have to play with the z bar and linkage to get it too work for racing. If I was building a cruiser I'd run a diaphragm with hydraulic throw out bearing. Really will make the installation and driving easier.

You may have a point regarding the release, but I suspect it has more to do with the linkage ratios rather than the type of clutch. Both my every day driver Mustang and my 'Cuda have diaphragm clutches. The Mustang has a cable with an aftermarket quadrant and the 'Cuda uses the factory bell crank linkage. The 'Cuda is very smooth and progressive, the Mustang is smooth but engagement is a little abrupt as it nears the end of travel.

I'm still leaning towards getting a B&B but I'm still not really decided.

Also, is there any reason to go for the 10.95" vs 10.5" clutch? Engine is a fairly mild 360 making probably 340 hp I would guess, so I figure a 10.5 is "big enough" but is bigger better?

I'm running a centerforce dual friction in my 77 pickup. I modified the pivot point so the pedal travels further and have had no problems with going overcenter. I think I got lucky though as I never knew it was an issue.
I had a hays bb clutch that broke two of the three pivot arms and I had to start it in gear and shift without the clutch to get it home. Not a big deal out in the country, but I was in the big city when it happened I've concluded it was a cheap clutch, but the even cheaper Ram clutches I had used up to that point lasted better. Now my centerforce has been on four engines and is still going strong. (disclaimer: only one of the engines failed, I get bored easily)

Diaphram is a Chivvy thing, if you go that way you might not get pregnant...

OF COURSE you use the 10.95" clutch. It is the higher-performance version of the 10.5" clutch, using the same flywheel. I vote for the Borg & Beck pressure plate because it has a more gradual engagement.
R.